Next project... fix stiff ride w/ WH 3.5” kit

guidoverduci · Feb 15, 2019

Ok- now that I’ve got this thing running thanks to all the people who helped me through 8 pages of newbie questions... I pose another:

I installed the WH 3.5” kit with bilsteins and 11 pack rear. I’m willing to bet I did something wrong because the rear is super stiff. I’ve loosened the bolts on the springs, no change. Tire load is D and they are 32 PSI. No top, factory bumper, and not much weight in the rear other than the bench seat! I’m gonna guess this thread doesn’t last long because someone will point out something I missed, because I’ve heard this setup rides great.

hammer189 · Feb 15, 2019

Try a lower psi. maybe 28?

77RHINO · Feb 15, 2019

Loosened the bolts on the spring side or the shackle/hanger side? Is that a 23 gallon rear tank/is it full? Pic of the front mount? Driving around with some extra weight in the back may help settle things a bit as well.

guidoverduci · Feb 15, 2019

77RHINO said:
Loosened the bolts on the spring side or the shackle/hanger side? Is that a 23 gallon rear tank/is it full? Pic of the front mount? Driving around with some extra weight in the back may help settle things a bit as well.

So far, just loosened the shackle/hanger side. 23 gal tank and it’s almost full. I’ll look at putting some weight in the back- thanks!

Local Boy · Feb 15, 2019

What kind of valving does your Bilsteins have? Dual set up or singles?

BTW: Tire pressure should be determined by the contact patch not ride quality...

Aloha

DirtDonk · Feb 15, 2019

You may have done everything proper. Hard to say with some setups, but it should not be the shocks. They tend to ride pretty decently no matter the weight.
The springs are known to be firm, but not necessarily harsh/stiff like you're describing. But just so we know, what was on there before that you're comparing to?

Oh, and by the way... Congrats on driving it!!!!!
Seems like forever since you've had anything to complain about other than the fraggledaggle accessory drive!

Back to the springs. Sounds like you're running light, so that's not uncommon to feel stiffer with any spring. But I think more so with modern 11-leaf packs like ours.
If you're set up light, like you are, you can probably remove some leaves.
Yes, it's an added hassle, but you really never know exactly how a Bronco will sit until it's done. And if you run a lower lift in the rear (for example 2.5 rear and 3.5 front) you lose the option of removing leaves.
If you're sitting high in the rear now (and in theory you should be) removing some of the individual leaves can not only lower you down, but net a softer ride at the same time.
If you're sitting right where you want however, removing leaves is not really going to work.

Paul

guidoverduci · Feb 15, 2019

Singles- and I’m not sure the valving. They came with the 3.5” kit from WH.

DirtDonk · Feb 15, 2019

Putting weight in is a good starting point. But you can't run that way all the time (well, you can) just to get a better ride. I run heavy all the time anyway, but wouldn't want it to ride harsh when empty either.

Oh, and even though you did do the important end, it would not hurt to drive around with the added weight as well as loosening the spring bolts. All six of them.
This way you can drive around a bit, or just bounce up and down on the bumper a few times (but I'd drive it a few blocks at least) then tighten them back up. This all done, with all the weight of the vehicle on the tires.

Good luck.

Paul

guidoverduci · Feb 15, 2019

Thanks Paul. I thought for sure I did something. I’m not sure what setup was on before. It had dual rancho 5000s up front and singles in the rear and I believe 7 leafs. It also had what I think was an anti-sway bar in the rear. Definitely running light! However, the stance looks fairly level to me, at least to the point where I’d deal with the stiffness to keep the stance.

Oh and thanks for all your help on that accessory drive debacle! Chasing that squeal led to quite a project, but I enjoyed every minute of it!!... well except finding that screw head in the cylinder!

Local Boy · Feb 15, 2019

If they came with their kit its probably 255/70... which are great for singles...

If you want to try to isolate the issue, you can remove the shocks and see if it softens or stays the same...If it stays stiff...then you know ...it's the springs...

BTW: New springs are going to be a bit harsh, at first...until they relax a bit.....and soften up... Being light on the back just prolongs the process...

The more you can get the back to cycle up and down...the faster the process will play out...

I got my springs from WH...it was harsh at first... then I took it air borne, a few times...and continue to launch it hard ... for some hard cycling... and it softened up nicely...

BTW: I'm light on the back also... : )

Aloha

77RHINO · Feb 15, 2019

That bracket bolted (and maybe welded?) to your front spring mount is for the old school traction bars. I have them on mine, so the PO may have had an axle-wrap problem before.

abn373 · Feb 15, 2019

I know 11 packs are the trend and such, but I run the 2.5" Skyjacker 5 leaf, with the overload removed so its 4 leaf (from the 1990s but still available).

Sometimes I think we over engineer stuff for what most Broncos see, which is street and regular off road trails and some mud. I need no sway bars, have zero body roll, I guess the ride is harsh by 2019 standards, but its 1990s tech on 1970s vehicle and I have no complaints.

FWIW I ride super light. OEM 11 Gallon tank, fiberglass body, never had a top on it, no rear seats, hell nothing in the back but a hi-lift jack and some tools. And that is with 35s. I considered switching to modern 11 leaf packs, but too many people complain about needing sway bars and such.

hyghlndr · Feb 15, 2019

I would get some drive time on it before you start messing with too much. Sometimes they seem to loosen up after a little of use.

guidoverduci · Feb 15, 2019

Thanks everyone. I’ll put some miles on it with weight in the back. It’s still about brand new. I still have the traction bar, I’ll have to read up on axel wrap and see if I need to reinstall.

bronkenn · Feb 16, 2019

The picture you posted shows the top spring to shackle bolt going in towards the frame. That bolt isn't too long and hitting the frame? Something to check.

bronconut73 · Feb 16, 2019

bronkenn said:
The picture you posted shows the top spring to shackle bolt going in towards the frame. That bolt isn't too long and hitting the frame? Something to check.

I was thinking the same thing.
That bolt sticking out towards the frame could be reducing the free swing of the shackle.

I also think you need to put some miles on it Bud.

DirtDonk · Feb 16, 2019

Good eye guys. What they said guidoverduci.
The two main frame hanger bolts do go in best from the outside in, but the shackle-to-eye bolt must be installed from the inside out. Nut on the outside.

This also means that the shackle is usually attached to the spring first, then the spring is installed. As you can see, trying to get the bolt in from the back isn't likely to happen!
Sometimes you can unbolt the shackle from the hanger, lift the spring up just enough to clear the frame, and push the bolt in from the back. Other times you have to move the spring more out of the way, or drop it down instead.

Luckily, with your body lift and gas tank that is raised up, it looks like you'll have clearance to just raise the spring up enough to clear the frame and you're good to go.

Paul

sykanr0ng · Feb 16, 2019

So if the rear is light and it takes longer to get the springs to 'loosen up' because of that why not run with a few hundred pounds of sand bags in back for a while?

guidoverduci · Feb 16, 2019

sykanr0ng said:
So if the rear is light and it takes longer to get the springs to 'loosen up' because of that why not run with a few hundred pounds of sand bags in back for a while?

That’s my plan!

As far as the bolt goes.. I did notice that. I’m afraid I took the easy way out (which hopefully isn’t a problem..), and hacked off the end of the bolt enough to avoid clearance issues.

Dirtroadjunkie · Feb 19, 2019

Hey G, I’ve got another option for you. You mentioned that you don’t want to pull a leaf because you like your ride height. I’ve been collecting parts for one of my builds. I’ve got 5.5 lift springs that I’m going to remove the third leaf from the top just cause I have them, and don’t want 5.5” of lift. Maybe others can chime in if that could possibly be softer?? Not trying to sell them or anything , but if it can help your welcome to borrow them and try them out since we’re local.

Next project... fix stiff ride w/ WH 3.5” kit

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