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Petronix Performance Kit

rubywoofs

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
96
Loc.
Southlake
I'm considering upgrading my ignition system with the Petronix Performance Kit. Looking for easier starts (not too bad now, but certainly does not fire right up), maybe a little more power, etc.

Here is the kit I'm considering:

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Pertronix_Performance_Kit/Bronco_Performance_Ignition

The more I read, though, the more questions I have. So, I'm looking for some help.

Is this close to a plug and play set up in my otherwise stock '74 302? Does this take my points out of the equation? Will this work if I eventually upgrade my dizzy, or do I need to upgrade the dizzy if I go this route and the points are gone?

Sorry for the barrage of questions. I guess my question is really summed up as "should and can I do this?"

Thanks for any help.
 

B RON CO

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Statesville, NC
Hi, a Pertronix ignitor upgrade makes sense for a lot of guys. I believe the ignitor and coil should be used together.
It is a pretty easy install.
You should probably eliminate the resistor wire and run a full 12 volts to the battery side of the coil. I believe the Pertronix calls for 12 volts anyway. Follow the instructions.
I never used their spark plug wires. You may or may not need new wires.
You should open up the gap on the spark plugs to @.045. If the plugs are old you may as well change them too.
If the cap, rotor, wires and plugs are all old, you may as well freshen up everything.
You remove the points and condenser and screw the ignitor to the breaker plate. The other piece goes on the shaft under the rotor . They give you a gauge to set the gap.
It is made for the stock Ford distributor.
Good luck
 

mpboxer

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Messages
786
Loc.
Queen Creek, AZ
One of the best upgrades you can do. I recommend the Ignitor II because you can't ruin it if you accidentally leave the ignition in the run position like you can on the Ignitor I. Ask me how I know %)

Do as B Ron Co stated and run a new 12V power source.
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
And Jegs and Summit have house brand versions of the Pertronix distributor for less coin.
So check out your stock distributor for wear and excessive end play.....maybe a whole new distributor is in order.
 

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
908
Have this in my Bronco and I do recommend it. However for just a bit more you can buy the entire Petronix dizzy and have all new parts. I did that for my ‘66 Mustang but had to bypass the pink wire
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
873
And Jegs and Summit have house brand versions of the Pertronix distributor for less coin.
So check out your stock distributor for wear and excessive end play.....maybe a whole new distributor is in order.



Or for not too much you can get a duraspark set up. I changed from pertronix iii distributor to duraspark for just in case I needed parts I could get them in town at a regular parts house. Pertronix May have to be ordered and leave you waiting on parts. However I never had any issues with the pertronix setup I had for 3 years that I ran it. I bought the stock look distributor from them with their coil and spark plugs. Both are much better than points.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
Or for not too much you can get a duraspark set up. I changed from pertronix iii distributor to duraspark for just in case I needed parts I could get them in town at a regular parts house. Pertronix May have to be ordered and leave you waiting on parts. However I never had any issues with the pertronix setup I had for 3 years that I ran it. I bought the stock look distributor from them with their coil and spark plugs. Both are much better than points.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Understandable concern. I share that concern.
Obsolete parts concern me.

Dura-Spark is a stout unit especially when aided by 6AL MSD. Parts will be available for it and GM HEI forever.
 

DirtDonk

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47,346
You've already messed around with yours and know for sure it's still running a points distributor, correct?

Looking for easier starts (not too bad now, but certainly does not fire right up), maybe a little more power, etc.

Mainly what you get is consistency and longevity. If you had a decently working '74 points ignition, the added "power" is likely there, but not likely you'll feel like you just gained 20hp off the top. And the thrill of knowing you'll never have to adjust another set of points!
Maybe a couple of extra ponies. Maybe even up to 5 to 10 hp if lucky. But for the most part, it's not power you're gaining. Just better running and perhaps a little more efficiency.
But even that's hard to measure.

The good thing about having a '74 is that they were really starting to experiment with leaner air/fuel ratios so maybe you'll feel more of a difference than others, because now the hotter spark will more easily ignite the lean mixture.
But more power or not, it certainly won't hurt things!

Is this "close" to a plug and play set up in my otherwise stock '74 302?

Yes, if you take the "close" part to heart.
As mentioned, you'll need to provide the Ignitor Red wire with full 12v and your existing Red w/green stripe wire to the coil is a resistor wire so when it's fully warmed up may only net you 5 to 8 volts at the coil.
But the module does bolt right into a points type distributor with no modifications of note.

Does this take my points out of the equation?

Yes. That's the whole "point" of the conversion.
It's a "points eliminator kit" in simple terms. Changes the mechanical trigger (the breaker points) to an electronic trigger (the Ignitor module and armature) for a faster open/close time. Faster triggers are what gets even a normal coil to produce more spark energy.

Will this work if I eventually upgrade my dizzy, or do I need to upgrade the dizzy if I go this route and the points are gone?

Depends on what you mean by "upgrade" with regard to the distributor.
If just replacing with a new points style distributor to get the newer bearings and bushings, then yes, this will work.
If you mean to upgrade to a more modern electronic distributor, then no, it won't be compatible. And you would not need it anyway, since the sole reason for being of an Ignitor is to convert from points to electronic.

This is the distributor upgrade.

I guess my question is really summed up as "should and can I do this?"

What condition is your distributor in right now? If it's good and tight, and it's only downfall is that it runs points, then yes by all means I would do it.
If you need a new distributor anyway, because your old one is physically worn out, then you need to do what was already suggested and consider at least a new electronic distributor of some kind.
If budget comes into play though, a new distributor could be anywhere from $50 to $200 more once all is said and done.

The Pertronix products can be purchased separately as well, for when either budgetary considerations or simple need come in to play. Maybe you don't need new wires or a coil, because you already changed them recently. In that case the Ignitor conversion makes sense all the way around.
If you still need a new distributor, a new stock one might be as little as $30 bucks. Compared to the $240 to $500 of a new fancy billet aluminum aftermarket job.

There are advantages to those more expensive units of course. It's just how those advantages play into your needs and wants as to whether or not that's the best way to go for you.

I'm a big fan of the stock Dura Spark setup. But it's not for everyone due to it's complexity. Wiring and external parts are not to everyone's tastes. The more recently available "HEI" conversions are good ignitions, but don't make sense for some of us due to their sheer size under the hood taking up valuable space.
The other distributors can have all the advantages that get rid of the downsides, but at a cost.

As with any electronic ignition though, people with older vehicle electrical systems and newer ignitions should carry a spare module. I just think that it's common sense unless you never stray far from home base. If you take your Bronco off-roading and general adventuring, spare parts for any system that can leave you stranded is just a good common sense practice.

With a Dura Spark, this can mean a $50 module in the spare parts bin. For an HEI, it's about $40 or so. With an aftermarket distributor, it depends on just what the brains are made of. Not sure how pricing runs, but it's not that common to read about replacements being needed, so we don't have a lot of feedback yet.
For a Pertronix, it would mean a $90 module. But the beauty of a points-eliminator is that you simply keep your old points plate fully set up and waiting in the glove box. If you ever have a failure, you simply swap out the Ignitor for the points and head out on your way.
Can take as little as five minutes if you've worked on points a time or three.

That enough useless info for you!;D

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and as was mentioned, upgrading the coil is a great thing to do at the same time. Not only for more potential power, but because your old one could be just too old.

That said though, the Ford coils on our Broncos were some of the best back in the day and don't wear out easily. There are many still running to this day.
The only thing you need to take into account is that, new electronic ignition or not, you need to keep the stock wiring to keep the voltage lower at the coil.
You still need to provide a full 12v to the Ignitor, but lower voltage at the coil remains.

If you want to simplify wiring then, and just use one wire for both, then you definitely need to use a coil that's designed for 12v so you can connect the Ignitor's red wire to the coil's positive side and take power for both units from one wire.

But you can go either way and still get a good hot spark that's worth keeping your fingers away from!

Paul
 

abn373

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I am probably talking out of my lane here, because I am not engine smart at all, but I had the Pertronix and I can't say it had issues, but the GM HEI swap was stupid easy for someone like me. Its as plug and play as it gets. Pull the distributor and the coil and ballast and toss in the heap. Mine came with Accel 8mm wires already cut, crimped, and sealed to length for a 302 so I swapped them out as well or else it would have been a 1 wire hook up (2 with a tach). The cap is big with the coil on it, but it fit easily under my hood (fiberglass hood with the fake bubble bump). For my application I had to grind maybe a millimeter off the outside of the cap just to make sure it didn't rub the tree. I have an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake to maybe the location would clear on a different manifold. Seriously a couple beers job. Works for me.

20150609_172022_zps5p6xqfyt.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 

abn373

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That was a really bad picture I posted because it shows the old cap and wires laying on the engine. Looks a hot mess. Its actually a fairly organized setup when done.
 
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rubywoofs

rubywoofs

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Mar 30, 2010
Messages
96
Loc.
Southlake
Paul,

I got the flame thrower coil, which does call for 12v and I like your suggestion on the simpler wiring.

I'm still little foggy, though. How do I eliminate the resistor wire and arrange a new power source?

My current setup is mostly original. Looks like replaced plug wires, but I believe the coil and distributer are original, or at least really, really old. The distributer is in good shape physically.

Thanks again.
 

DirtDonk

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The two most common ways of getting the full 12v from members here are either bypassing the resistor wire by running a new standard wire straight from the switch to the new coil, OR letting the old resistor wire switch on a new relay setup.

I like both, but either has their good and bad sides.
The relay method has the benefit of not having to work under the dash. For me, that's a big bonus.
The downside to a relay is that it adds complexity by needing some extra new wires under the hood. It also adds a potential failure point (the relay itself), but that seems low on the list if you use good quality parts because so many newer vehicles run fuses and relays on the ignition circuit. So the method seems relatively trustworthy.

The "simplest" is simply to connect a new wire (about 14ga should be fine for any normal ignition setup) to the ignition switch and run it up the dash, out the firewall and to the ignition.
You can then either cut off the old wire, or literally splice the new one to it at the firewall since all the exposed Red w/green wire you see on the engine in V8 applications is standard wire. All the resistor is under the dash.

Depending on your year, this may be the best way too, since some Broncos came from the factory with a push-connector near the ignition switch. You could just pull the resistor wire right out, plug in the new wire and away you go. This made replacing a failed resistor wire much easier.
Unfortunately not all Broncos got that setup. Some are resistor wire spliced to regular wire, and some are resistor wire right up to the ignition switch.

Check yours out and see which way you'd prefer to go.

Paul
 

Scott_T

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Joined
Jan 19, 2018
Messages
26
Loc.
Boise, ID
An option to consider if your points distributor is still in good shape is to add an MSD ignition and keep the points. The MSD eliminates the primary wear mechanism in points (current arcing) and provides multi-spark ignition, at least at lower RPM. You have a small trigger signal going through the points instead of the full coil energizing current. This setup has the advantage of being somewhat more repairable in the field with existing parts. If the mechanical points fail, it is in the potential pocket knife and pliers repair realm. If the MSD goes, you bypass it and revert to a conventional points and coil setup. I check the timing occasionally as the points cam contact point can wear, but this is not significant. I have been running this setup for 15+ years with no issues.
 

bronco loco

It never ends
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I went the easiest way, I’m just using the HEI module and has worked great for the last 4 years. Got a spare just in case on the glovebox.
http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm
Disclaimer: NO Duraspark internals were destroyed, I purchased an empty box to use with a computer cooling fin. Had the Petronix before the HEI module
 

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rubywoofs

rubywoofs

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Southlake
I'm working on this, but it's not going well yet. My wiring is a mess and likely has been fooled with in the past. Some of the wires under the dash have been burned up - must be historical, since I believe everything works right now.

Anyway, I can't get a new wire through the grommet in the firewall and am looking to use some combination of existing wires. I have found the resistor wire coming from the same slot in the ignition switch as another (I assume the actual ignition wire). Those wires seem to run together into a plug in the engine compartment. They appear to go into the same slot of a 3 slot plug. Four wires go in (with those two into one slot) and three wires come out. The plug is flat and red. The one outbound wire from the slot of the 2 inbound wires goes to the coil. I can't believe that it could be as simple as cutting the resistor wire off of the ignition switch, but think there must be some workable possibility here with that wiring set up. I sort of think that cutting the resistor wire would then leave just the single wire from the switch to the coil. Any thoughts?

Also, in case it's relevant, there is also a square 4 in and 4 out plug in the same area of the engine bay, but the wires have been cut and taped up coming out of that plug.

I just paid to be a contributor, so I hope to be able to post photos soon.

Thanks again.
 

DirtDonk

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...I can't get a new wire through the grommet in the firewall and am looking to use some combination of existing wires.

With the larger grommets, you can actually drill through the side of the grommet near to, but not right on the existing wires. The drill puts a hole through the rubber that then closes back off from it's own internal tension/flexibility but you can shove the wire through it anyway.
Sometimes you end up having to drill larger hole than you think you might need, but it still closes down tight on the new wire.
Or if it's too big in the end, some silicone sealer works wonders.

I have found the resistor wire coming from the same slot in the ignition switch as another (I assume the actual ignition wire).

Sometimes they are actually spliced to the same connector, and sometimes they simply look like they're together because they come out of the big black strain relief part of the connector. But only one is the resistor wire, as you found. A lot of how it's wired depends on the year of the Bronco and what Ford decided to do that year.
If the other wire is Green w/red stripe it's general power to switched accessories, or for early years, only the voltage regulator.
If it's Red w/green and you have a '74 or later EB, it might be power for the ignition module.

Those wires seem to run together into a plug in the engine compartment. They appear to go into the same slot of a 3 slot plug. Four wires go in (with those two into one slot) and three wires come out. The plug is flat and red. The one outbound wire from the slot of the 2 inbound wires goes to the coil.

The other wires should be for the water temp and oil pressure senders. The engine side where the single wire is goes to the coil, as you found.
The inbound (body) side of the red connector would have a Brown wire joining the Red w/green. The Brown wire is the bypass wire connected to the "I" post of the starter relay over on the fender well.

I can't believe that it could be as simple as cutting the resistor wire off of the ignition switch, but think there must be some workable possibility here with that wiring set up.

Could be. Resistor wires are awkward to re-splice after cutting though, so that's to be avoided if it's possible. If the part of the wire coming off of the switch is pure Red w/green (as opposed to that pukey brown/pink resistor wire color) then it should be as easy as it looks.

I sort of think that cutting the resistor wire would then leave just the single wire from the switch to the coil. Any thoughts?

Yeah, not sure that's how it works. Got some exact colors of the wires? What about the year of your truck again?

Also, in case it's relevant, there is also a square 4 in and 4 out plug in the same area of the engine bay, but the wires have been cut and taped up coming out of that plug.

Depending again on the year, or if you have an automatic transmission or not, that may be the Neutral Safety/Reverse Lamp switch from the transmission.
The the wires are 2 Red /blue and 2 Black w/red (or is it Red w/black?) then that's what it is.
Otherwise there is a square 4-wire connector there too, that runs to the back harness including the lights and fuel sender I believe. I'd have to see the colors to remember for sure.

Are you sure everything currently works in the back of the truck? Backup lamps? Turn signals and brakes (or hazards since it's easier to test those). Or fuel gauge?

Paul
 
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rubywoofs

rubywoofs

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Mar 30, 2010
Messages
96
Loc.
Southlake
74 three on the tree. I'll verify everything on the back works after a while, since there's a pretty burned up wire in the current bundle going through the firewall. Fuel gauge does work.

Sorry for so many questions (I think I owe you about a keg by this point - a six pack wouldn't cover it).

But, here's another. From what you've said, I think I love the idea of using a drill to get through the grommet and running a wire straight from where the resistor attached to the switch all the way to the coil. Could that work?

Also, there are various hoses in front of and sort of over the current coil (factory position, I assume - basically on top of the engine below/in front of the carb). It's going to be a booger to get out, I fear. Is there a trick there?
 

DirtDonk

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Will wait until I see some pics before answering that. Even though the factory location was pretty consistent for all years, lots of stuff could have changed. Including my memory of it all!

Can't think of any reason the drill method won't work. Have done it several times myself with zero issues.
I would of course look on the backside of the grommet before, and as you're drilling to make sure that there are no branches of wires that turn into the area that the drill bit will pop through.
Be a bummer to get all that nice clean wiring and find out that the drill poked through the old ones!

Paul
 
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