9 inch pinion seal replacement

Smedley · Jul 5, 2014

My rear axle was leaking from the pinion. As I read on line about the seal replacement, I kept reading about the crush sleeve. I took the yoke off to replace the seal. Took the seal out. I do not see anything that looks like a crush sleeve. Two pictures, one is the axle, one is pinion. There is nothing in between. Am I missing something?

Thanks
Will

garberz · Jul 5, 2014

You can't see the crush sleeve in those pics, it's behind the bearing in the first pic. The crush sleeve is what separates the inner and outer pinion bearing. When you replace the seal, then put the yoke back on, tightening the pinion nut could increase the preload on the two bearings. The preload is measured by how much rotational force it takes to turn the pinion shaft. Measured in inch pounds. 18-23in.lbs. That's just the pinion shaft rotating freely in the pinion support housing. This is why the solid spacer is a nice upgrade from the crush sleeve. How are you planning on putting this back together?

Mark

Smedley · Jul 5, 2014

Well. I would like to do this once. So if putting the solid spacer in is the best way, then that I what I will do. So I am assuming that I take out the five bolts in the first pic to get to the crush sleeve.

Thanks
Will

garberz · Jul 5, 2014

Yes, remove the five bolts and the entire pinion support will come out. T,here's an O-ring that seals it to the case, so it may be a little stuck once the bolts are removed. There are shims between the support and case that set the pinion depth to the ring gear, so keep those in order. The solid spacer will come with shims, so it helps to have a calipers and an in.lb. torque wrench to do this. Good luck.

Mark

Smedley · Jul 5, 2014

Ok. Took out the five bolts. Found the crush sleeve, no shims. Can I get the solid space kit at a local parts store?

Thanks
Will

garberz · Jul 5, 2014

No shims between the support and the case? Hmm. I'm not sure if you'd be able to get that locally, try Napa. You can get a new crush sleeve locally, if you go that route.

Mark

Smedley · Jul 5, 2014

there was a steel gasket between support and case, is that a shim?

THanks
Will

garberz · Jul 5, 2014

There you go, yes, that's the shim. No gaskets for sealing, just the O-ring.

Dbarnes72 · Jul 5, 2014

Smedley said:
Ok. Took out the five bolts. Found the crush sleeve, no shims. Can I get the solid space kit at a local parts store?

Thanks
Will

Solid spacer
http://www.justdifferentials.com/SKCSF9-STD-p/skcsf9-std.htm

Bronco73 · Jul 6, 2014

What gears do you have? If you have 3.50 gears they are semi-hunting gears and have index marks on the pinion and ring gear that should be lined back up.

Timmy390 · Jul 6, 2014

Got my solid spacer off eBay for $28 free shipping.

That yoke looks like it has some groves....Time to get a "speedy sleeve" Got mine at NAPA. Think it was $45

Tim

weekend warrior · Jul 16, 2018

I need to replace my pinion seal as well. Is the spacer upgrade just a matter of using a dial caliper to measure the crush sleeve and shims and duplicate that dimension with the new spacer and shim combination?

weekend warrior · Jul 16, 2018

Is the yoke just torqued to 125 ft. lbs., or is there more to that step as well?

NicksTrix · Jul 16, 2018

looks like your yoke has a groove worn in it from the seal. a speedi sleeve would be highly suggested since you have it apart since you only want to do this once. part number 99181

Rustytruck · Jul 16, 2018

A new yoke isnt much more than a speedie sleeve and no risk of poor installation issues. Nothing like brand new u-joint saddles.

NC-Fordguy · Jul 16, 2018

Rustytruck said:
A new yoke isnt much more than a speedie sleeve and no risk of poor installation issues. Nothing like brand new u-joint saddles.

x2.......

broncodriver99 · Jul 16, 2018

I'm guessing Smedley got this fixed about 4 years ago. ;D

FNG

Apogee · Jul 17, 2018

D-Oh! Way to go resurrecting an old thread from near death. To the new guy, Mr. weekend warrior, yes, you can measure the crush sleeve and then duplicate that with the solid bearing preload spacer length as a starting point. The end goal is to have the same preload on the bearings, so the torque required to spin the pinion should be similar and you'll need to adjust as required.

Rather than torquing the pinion nut each time, I just put it in the press, preload the bearings and check the torque as it's a lot quicker assuming you have access to a press IMO. I think I aimed for 15-20 in-lb with new bearings, slightly less with used bearings (10-15 in-lb). As for pinion nut torque, if we assume a 28-spline pinion then I run ~200 ft-lb with a solid bearing preload spacer.

Strange lists their specs here, so I used that since I run one of their cases.

Smedley · Jul 17, 2018

At this point I have forgotten what I did to put it all together. 4 years sure does fly by. Hope to be driving the Bronco by the end of the summer. 6 long year (that did not fly by).

Will

unimogger · Jan 23, 2020

Resurrection this from the dead, again.
I have my center section on the bench, to replace the pinion seal and weld a drain plug into the 9 inch housing. I do have a new crush sleeve, but how do you hold the pinion while turning the nut? I imagine bolting a plate to the yoke, or holding the yoke in my vise. Is there a better way?
SD

9 inch pinion seal replacement

Sr. Member

Attachments

Bronco Influencer

Sr. Member

Bronco Influencer

Sr. Member

Attachments

Bronco Influencer

Sr. Member

Bronco Influencer

Sr. Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Jr. Member

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Sr. Member

Full Member

Similar threads