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Tie rod heim joint stud question
- Thread starter rockingm82
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 6,035
I would think more than that. I would want enough thread penetration such that I could put a locknut on the top and still have at least threads protruding through the nut. That whole tapered stud adapter looks longer than necessary, but maybe I'm missing something.
OP
OP
rockingm82
Sr. Member
I agree. I know you need to reem the knuckle if converting to TRO, but this little penetration with TRU is throwing me off.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,478
Not far enough. Looks like the tapered part is too large for the tapered hole.
Are these '76/'77 Bronco knuckles by any chance? They don't look like it, but the hole is small enough to be.
Is the stud for a full-size knuckle, or EB sized?
That a BC stud? I don't remember seeing anyone else making them, but haven't been keeping track either.
In a pinch you can just ream out the hole larger, so that the taper fully seats, and/or the stud sticks out the top far enough.
But I think you need to fully seat it for the rod end to fit properly, don't you? Since you don't need misalignment/offset spacers on the tie-rod side and you want the rod end to sit up almost flush with the casting, I would think you'd need the taper mostly inside the steering arm.
Paul
Are these '76/'77 Bronco knuckles by any chance? They don't look like it, but the hole is small enough to be.
Is the stud for a full-size knuckle, or EB sized?
That a BC stud? I don't remember seeing anyone else making them, but haven't been keeping track either.
In a pinch you can just ream out the hole larger, so that the taper fully seats, and/or the stud sticks out the top far enough.
But I think you need to fully seat it for the rod end to fit properly, don't you? Since you don't need misalignment/offset spacers on the tie-rod side and you want the rod end to sit up almost flush with the casting, I would think you'd need the taper mostly inside the steering arm.
Paul
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 6,035
I would want the top of the tapered surface to be slightly proud of the spindle, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch at most. That would keep the SRE's as close to the knuckle and out of harm's way as much as is possible on a TRU setup. Just so we know what we're looking at, is that the pre-76 drum brake EB D44 knuckle with a GM disc brake conversion? Any reason you're not looking to do TRO? If so, then you could taper the steering arm on the knuckle to your heart's content and set the depth of engagement where you like it.
OP
OP
rockingm82
Sr. Member
You are correct on all accounts. 71 Drum with Chevy Disc conversion.
I agree with your TRO assessment and figure if I'm going to have to ream with a taper I might as well go that direction. Would I need a taper bushing if I go the TRO route?
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
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That depends on whether you want to drill a hole and weld in a split tapered bushing, or whether you want to just ream the hole directly. I think either solution is valid, however you would be removing less material by just reaming the hole, so that would be my first choice.
OP
OP
rockingm82
Sr. Member
Just spoke to BC Broncos and to go TRO it does require a taper bushing. Reaming from the top to match the size of the stud would create an hour glass shape in the knuckle and the post could wobble. Therefore you have to make an over sized hole to eliminate the taper from the bottom. Then use the bushing to fill the extra space and make the post fit.
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- Nov 26, 2005
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That makes sense...I wasn't sure if the stud was as long/oversized as it is to make up for that, but apparently not.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,478
They usually are not, but a ton of people have done TRO conversions over the years where only the standard tie-rod end stud is in the knuckle, and have not reported any trouble.
That's not saying it's right to use the hourglass shaped hole! Just that a lot of members here have done it without the sleeve and "gotten away with it" over time.
However, that's exactly why the sleeves were developed. Along with being able to neck down larger holes to fit smaller studs, they're a good safety measure.
And I would go to the extra trouble of using the sleeves for a better, safer install.
Paul
That's not saying it's right to use the hourglass shaped hole! Just that a lot of members here have done it without the sleeve and "gotten away with it" over time.
However, that's exactly why the sleeves were developed. Along with being able to neck down larger holes to fit smaller studs, they're a good safety measure.
And I would go to the extra trouble of using the sleeves for a better, safer install.
Paul
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