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1977 Ranger

Swath

New Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
41
Loc.
Coal Creek Canyon CO
Alright, here we go! Here is my first of many rookie mechanic questions. What RPM should my stock 302 with the stock carb be idling at? Next question, assuming i have it set at the proper RPM when idling what does it mean if I put it into gear and it dies? I am sure this is so basic that you are all probably like holy crap this guy should not own this thing but please understand I am as green as they come. about the only mechanical thing I have done is change fluids in my motorcycle and it turned out right but I am still not sure it wasn't a fluke! Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Just as a point of reference I believe I have it set to high just by sound alone but i have it set as low as I can to keep it running when I put it in gear. Also I ordered a hand held dwell tach meter today online so I am hoping to get it tuned to the proper RPM ASAP. again, thanks for the help.

Most automatics of that vintage should idle at 800rpm, it should drop a bit when put in gear. If it idles at 400 in park it would most likely die when placed in gear.

Might want to spend a little on a chiltons manual or some such, that will help a lot.
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
sold the winch! i want to thank you all for giving me a heads up on how valuable that thing was. that is going to fund some great improvements and move my time table up a bit. thanks all.
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
hey guys I need a bit of advice. I have taken my rear floor down to bare metal. a bit of surface rust is on it now. I am getting ready to prime with etched primer. I also bought some evaporust from auto zone. has anyone used this brand? it says to wet the surface with this stuff and cover with plastic. makes sense to me but do I need to rinse after I scrape the rust off? if so should I rinse with just water? any help will be appreciated.
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BluebroncoNC

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,717
Loc.
Asheville, NC
It really depends, if it is just surface rust than a rust changer will fix that, just use the evaporust after you remove as much as you can, see how it turns out. Then make sure you can coat the evaporust with your primer. Go to town. If the rust is through and through then cut out and replace is in order. Most sheetmetel can be found through one of our vendors here.

Yes, I had to cut out my door and remount it on a "stock" non door only available fender, there is a pick I think in my thread. It did give me the ability to modify like most guys do here with 77's, that is move the door out of the way of the fender flair.
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
Blue thanks for the advice. I am looking like I am in pretty good shape with the interior. I have to replace the driver kick panel and the driver floor pan. past that the only other actual holes that I 100% feel I need to replace is the passenger side inner fender piece.

When I get to the exterior I am going to replace the hood and the tailgate for sure. I am planning on buying a new repro steel hood and tailgate. could someone that has bought one please comment on theirs? I am looking for practical knowledge. did it fit? bolt holes line up? should I salvage pieces off my old one to use on my new one or should I buy all components new? Where did you get yours? are they all stamped on the same machines and then branded and sold by other vendors? Thank you for the advice ahead of time.
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
next question:

getting ready to seam seal the interior. does the brand really matter?

plus can someone offer an opinion on the repro hoods and tailgates?
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
hey guys I need a little help. i am looking at doing a 1" body lift and I am wondering what I will need to adjust and order to do it right. if anyone has done this and could offer some advice that would be great. thank you in advance.
 

Crawdad

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
3,635
I'd suggest replacing your body mounts while you are at it, especially if they have never been replaced. WH sells a 1" body lift/ body mount combo. I've heard really good things about that setup.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
Yes, with that kit you're automatically replacing the body mounts, as the extra 1" is built right in. So new poly mounts and an extra inch of height is a great combo. And very good bang-for-the-buck for sure.

For just one inch enthusiast, you don't always have to do anything. I got lucky and didn't on mine, but not everyone is as lucky. For starters, here's a small list with expectations.

During the installation:

1. Always disconnect your fan shroud, if applicable.
2. If an automatic trans, it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the shift linkage. At least take it out of Park. Same for manuals, but it's usually not necessary.
3. Unless taking the body off, just do one side at a time. Loosen all bolts, but only remove the 4 per side as you do the lift. It's just easier with common garage tools this way. If you're a well-equipped shop, you can do all 8 at the same time easier than most of us.

After the install:

1. About 50% will have to lower their fan shroud. The other 50% don't.
2. About 10% with automatics can simply adjust their linkage to compensate. The other 90% will need to lengthen the rod or purchase a new longer "cut to fit" version like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/shift_linkage_kit_automatic
3. About 5% or less with manual transmissions can get away with re-adjusting the clutch linkage. The other 95% will need to lengthen the pedal-to-bellcrank rod. You can cut and section your old one, or purchase a longer adjustable one like this:http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Duty_Clutch_Rod
As a side note, and to push more product, more and more owners are going to find themselves with worn out clutch rods anyway, so buying new is not out of line. It pays to inspect yours first, so you'll know if it's in great shape, or on it's way out. Easy to tell...
4. About 95% will not need to modify their steering shaft or joints at all. However, if your steering setup is already non-stock, or you're in that other 5% of EB owners, you may have to change to a collapsible shaft with 2 joints/yokes, or similar setup. This is what we sell http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Custom_Lower_Steering_Shaft and you can check out the video to see how easy it really is to install.
5. About 99% won't have to do anything with floor shift levers for t-cases and the like. Every once in awhile it crops up, but only rarely. On 2" and 3" body lifts however, that percentage changes drastically.
6. With only 1" of lift, nobody should really have to mess with their fuel filler hoses or anything like that. However, here again if you're non-stock and something isn't giving you any leeway, that's going to be an individual Bronco kind of thing. No way to predict that kind of stuff.

That's about it. Most tolerances are more than adequate for a 1" body lift. But as you can see by the fact that it's not 100% for most of that, we fall back on the "every bronco is different" saying.

Have fun. The worst part is usually removing the old mounts. Rust again...
Want a percentage? From what I've seen, about 25% of owners can get theirs right off with no drama. Helped a friend with a '73 and we had them all undone and off in less than 10 minutes. Unfortunately, the other 75% of owners fight like the dickens! In those cases, some are lucky to get the job done in a single weekend even!

Good luck.

Paul
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
Wow! that is exactly what I was looking for and I will absolutely be taking this on and ordering from the links you provided. Thank you very much!
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
Dirt,

I ordered the lift kit and the cut to fit rod Tuesday and it is scheduled to deliver Monday. thanks for the help. I will let u know how it goes.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
Sounds good. Thanks!
Be interested to see how well it goes, and if your old stuff gives you any grief or not.
I'm hoping for the "or not" part...;D

Paul
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
I need some advice...... I am getting ready to replace my door posts and kick panels. so I am pulling my dash. with at being said should I also replace my wiring in my dash while it is out? should I bite the bullet and just do the whole harness for the entire truck? let me know what the experts would do? thx
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
Your '77's harness is not separate under the dash. So if you wanted to replace only that "section" of wiring, you're on your own in creating one and making all the cuts and splices.
Wouldn't normally be recommended except where your under-dash wiring was pretty well toasted or PO-modified to a fairtheewell(sp?) and no longer serviceable and you didn't have the time or money to replace the entire harness.

The only real separate sections are a couple for the engine, the alternator section, and the wires from the firewall to the rear of the truck. Everything else is pretty much 1-piece as far as replacement is concerned.

Again, depends on how bad your wiring is.

Paul
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
Paul,
thanks for the advise. I guess I will pull the dash and see what it looks like under there. I know there are a few things that do not work but I am not sure if that is the fault of the wires or the fuses. looks like I am going to be learning more about electrical wiring than I would care to. thank you.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
Yeah, seems a lot of EB owners (the dreaded PO's) like to "fix" wiring under our dashes.
Probably started as a simple addition of a CB radio, and turned into a spaghetti factory!

One thing I always start with is removing all the fuses and cleaning the contact clamps. They get rusty even on newer EB's with the fuse panel in the glovebox. Sometimes not even rust, but that thin layer of oxidation that hardly shows, but adds plenty of resistance to the circuits. Clean them up good and re-install the fuses to make sure that all your other searching isn't hampered by low voltage.

Another thing to look at is the one large connector under the dash behind the instrument cluster (ammeter side) on the large Black wire. Might be Black w/yellow stripe, but it's the largest wire typically found on an EB, so is usually easy to find.
They can get rusty too, so pull it apart and check to see if it needs a good scraping too.

That'll at least get you started down your path to Electrical-Guruness.:cool:

Paul
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
I know it has been a while but I have been working slowly but diligently. The dash is out sanded, primed, and sanded, and started painting it. of course I didn't buy enough 2k for the job. so pissed. I have 4 coats on and needs probably 2 more. looks good so far. I got my centech harness in and I am getting ready to install in about another week. can't wait to get it back on the road! btw the eastwoods 2k spray can is pretty good. I did do a serious amount of prep work though. it should look great. hopefully I can get it back together.
 
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enthusiast1977

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
103
my interior liner came in today. I am going to venture into the world of spraying in my own liner. I bought the kit so I hope it works. if anyone has experience with the lizard skin brand I would appreciate any words of wisdom. thx in advance.
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