3G alternator question

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #1

i purchased a 3g online and I am building from frame up with no original wiring. I have the painless wiring harness and was wondering how to wire up my 3g alt. I have seen a few diagrams but my alt has the green and red wire cut off.

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #2

 

66broncoCT

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #3

Looks like you have a "1 wire" 3g conversion. I think you just need to run the main charge wire to the battery terminal or the hot side of the starter solenoid on the fender well. Do you have a link of where you bought the alternator?

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #4

It was an ebay purchase.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-FORD-HOTROD-BLACK-W-BILLET-PULLEY-1-ONE-WIRE-HIGH-OUTPUT-160AMP-/300637002652?hash=item45ff5c9b9c:g:5nQAAOSwu4BVlJkw&vxp=mtr

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #5

So does that mean I only run the charge wire to the battery?

 

spap

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #6

You might have to reclock the alternator. Where that
Piece of paper is, the hot lead to the battery. But it looks really close to the block. It would be some fireworks if the touched while you were driving. Might just be the angle of the picture though

 

Steve83

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #7

You'd wire it exactly the same as a standard 3G, except you'd ignore the missing wire.


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/87047 (for phone apps)

...and remove/discard the paper tag.

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #8

the head of the bolt is about 1/2" away from the block. No way for me to clock it any other way. If it looks like it is gonna be too close when i get it wired up i will cut that piece off the block and add a little more red paint. lol

 

66broncoCT

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #9

Can't look at eBay links at work so I cant be sure about the charge wire but I'd think that's the only thing it needs. What does the paper say? And by clocking the alternator spap means removing the bolts that hold the front and the rear case together and turning the rear half of the case to get that stud away from the block. The front/mounting half doesn't change you only turn the rear part until the holes line up again and reinstall the bolts.

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #10

Thank you for that. I didn't know that I could clock it that way. Will do that in the morning

 

DirtDonk

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #11

And even if it doesn't say it requires one, given all that new paint I would also add a ground wire to one of the case bolts (or a dedicated GRD stud on the case) to a good ground on the engine or body.
Since you will also be adding all sorts of good grounds with your new harness anyway, right?;D

Paul

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #12

Yes. And even more grounds because of the bd fiberglass body coming

 

spap

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #13

Send a pic of the whole motor kinda interested on how the red looks.

 

spap

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• Oct 21, 2017

• #14

Send a pic of the whole motor kinda interested on how the red looks.

 

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chriskent85

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• Oct 23, 2017

• #15

Sorry, had to wait till I got back to my computer.

 

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Bart

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• Dec 10, 2017

• #16

If you don't have it figured out yet check the tech library for BC Broncos. They have a perfect drawing of what goes where.