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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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I hope my wife's not tired of me walking in 2X/day saying how much I like my "new" Miller 211...

Sunday I welded over 22 Lin ft remodeling my gas tank...all 16 ga.

Tonight (letting things cool), I get to permanently burn brackets on "again"... was this far on the rear last March!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Guess I was a bit misleading on the almost done! I noticed my "list" didn't post so sarcastically, this is "all" I have left! I'm actually feeling good about this...supposed to be on the 'Con 2nd week of Sept, I'm trying!! I take things off the list every day and usually add new stuff on every couple days...I've averaged about 3-4 pages of stuff on the list for the past 8 months. This isn't stuff like "build HP 60", but very detailed lists of parts, angles needed reference items, etc. Keeps me from having to keep all aspects of this build from revolving around in my head when I finally hit the pillow at night. 3min later I'm out and 5-7 hours later back at it... works great for keeping track of about 40 things at once. No forgetting!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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So I pressure test my connections and checked for leaks one last time before running the tank on its side.

The float from this 2000 model year NWMP tank is splitting open...must be that wonderful ethanol gas that we have no choice about... couldn't order just the float they want to sell you the $50 assembly so I took the float out of my auxillary tank which is a 49 to 72 Ford pick up float and Bronco auxiliary tank float and adapted that to fit. '49-72 Ford Truck and Broncos! Ethanol won't eat this one up! ;)

Notice I didn't do the open tank, check the pump and tank for leaks test INSIDE the shop! : )

Get past 25 yrs old and you actually start thinking of things that COULD go wrong instead of saying nothing WILL go wrong! lol
 

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marjama

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Looking good Brian! Glad to see the build thread...I'm feeling inspired :) If I could just get this dang kitchen remodel done, I'd get back to work. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you when you get it rolling!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Thanks Marcus! I have no doubt yours will turn out great! :)
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Brakes are on.

Matched to the front- same calipers, pads and rotors

I've run a brake bias valve for 20+ years so I shouldn't have any trouble dialing these in...
(Nov 10th update...famous last words!!-read on for brake delay)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Drive shafts are shipped off to Tom Woods (again). He's been building mine for decades now.

Rear is now 28" long and sits at 12 deg at ride ht and 14 deg at 16" of full droop. At full droop my corrected ujoint angle in the rear is 28 degrees. Needs 6" added to the length over what I had before I stretched the WB. It's a 1350 series with a forged rear yoke.

Front will keep the stock yoke on the 205 case and the D60 and rides at 8 1/2deg at ride ht and at full droop is 30degrees even with the hi-pinion D60.
See any issues with the front? Be nice if he could just shorten it 1 1/4" and put a ujoint on the D60 end that is a 1310/1330 hybrid...early HiBoy trucks used these joints... be at least $300 to go 1350 series up front... Not looking forward to having to mock up some kind of limiting strap for the front...hang it from the oil pan I guess!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I need to run some sort of cross brace over the top of my upper plenum between my ORI strut hoops.

I have two easy options:
inch and a quarter DOM x .120"

Or

1 1/2" DOM x .188" (bit heavy)

Why wouldn't an inch and a quarter be more than adequate?- that's what I'm going to do...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Cross brace is done... really dislike welding over the top of the engine... not as bad as welding within 3" of my fuse box when I was modifying the swing pedal assbly for the hydroboost! Lot's of important wires there!! : )

Trial fit the RCV front axles is next...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Issues with the custom RCV lengths but the most critical measurement which is the centerline of the RCV joint and the centerline of the ball joint being in line was ok so it was just a matter of trimming the one shaft .115" .

In the second pic you can see it protruding past the hub by .230".

I checked the fit and operation of the Yukon Hard Core hubs and they seemed to be working fine...

You can see the .115" difference between the two outer axle shafts in relation to the spindle...wouldn't be an issue if it didn't stick out of the wheel hub so far...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Spent the night welding up the radius arm brackets (weld on to the axle housing), steering/ram brackets, etc.

Hope to weld in the new frt/rear cross members, put a simple brace btw the frame and front cross member since it had to be cut out for the track bar bracket (original small brace is by the oil filter), weld up on the threaded tube adapters, etc...

I'll try to get a pic of this later.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Seems I didn't document my 4x4x2 box conversion back to 4x4x4! : )

I have a '78 F150/Bronco box modified and ported, been using it for years. Now that the box is moved appr. 10" rear ward so my tires can turn full amount, the pitman arm is facing forward and the guts have to be swapped out again so when I turn left...I actually turn LEFT! Important I guess...might take a bit to get used to turning the wheel left to actually turn right! lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I forgot to post up the steering mod's.

I had a 4x4x2 box from a '78 F150/Bronco, ported and used it for years. With the goal of not having tires hanging out the fenders and blowing mud and rain everywhere I needed to keep the tires tucked in as tight as possible--easy with 35"s...not so easy with 40"s. Much easier to go full width but then you deal with mud/spray/crap.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Strg box was being hit hard with my 37"s when turning even with it moved up 1 1/2" into the frt body mount. So 10" rearward it went with the pitman arm facing forward. Pro's and cons of it there but I didn't want it at the front bumper to give the tire clearance so...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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In the pic above you can see the potentially dangerous issue I found by having to do this mod...one of the two ears that holds the top of the sector shaft in place was completely broken off. I loosened the 2 bolts that hold the cover on and one ear fell on the table!

For some reason I don't have pics of the 28 ball bearings that are all the SAME SIZE no matter WHAT the Internet says!! Some sites say there are 2 sizes and they are .0005" of an inch difference-well not on the Ford 4x4x2 box years!

Essentially just swapped the original parts back into the '78-79 box so I could turn,
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Paul, my front D60 housing with gears, all brackets, with inner C's weighs in at 185#. I'll weigh more individual items like gusseted knuckles, RCV axles, hub/rotor (43#'s), etc.

I'll tally up and post up all the weights but I'm really working in the shop all day till late trying to get ready for a wheeling trip that I'm thinking ain't gonna happen...when I'm typing I'm either eating, letting parts cool, or should be sleeping (quitting early tonight).

Here I"m mocking up, then welding gusset material on to the notoriously weak Ford D60 knuckles (compared to Chev/Dodge). I thought since I'm doing this it would be worth the time to strengthen the weak areas. Some are saying it's hard to find an early D60 knuckle that doesn't have a hairline crack in it already...

Got this D60 I got from my best friend who pulled it out of service back in '83. Not many miles or years of service but I checked it over very carefully with a magnifying glass around the inner and outer "C"s before welding all the gussets in...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Rear cross member (totally new location and piece) is welded up, front cross member, -all steel below the frame rail in it is removed due to tie rod clearance and a pc of rect tubing is tightly inserted (hammered) into place and flush with the frame rail to return rigidity to the frt cross member.
 

DirtDonk

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Thanks for the weight! I would have thought it a little more, but I suppose by the time it's got the axles and knuckle assemblies bolted up, it's nearer where expected.

Thanks for taking the time. You gonna need a work party for the final push to make the event? Seems like what you're doing is best done by one and at whatever pace is needed to do it right.
But nothing like twenty or so of your closest Bronco friends cheering you on (and drinking your beer) to motivate!

Good luck.

Paul
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here'a some more D60 weights

...and in this corner are gusseted D60 knuckles weighing in at 18#'s a pair...and in the opposite corner are a pair of RCV axles for a narrowed D60 weighing in at an even 50#'s...
 

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