Bronco Hut    

   Ford Bronco Parts - Classic Vintage Early Bronco Parts   Toms Bronco Parts   BC Broncos
Community
 Message Forum
 Photo Gallery
 Event Calendar
 Book Reviews
 Bronco Wallpaper
 Bronco FAQ
 Link Back to CB!
 600+ Bronco Links!
 
Search all Bronco Links
Buy / Sell
 Classifieds / Want Ads
 Vendor Forum
James Duff
Rust Bullet
Sexton Offroad
Bronco Tech
Recent Tech Articles
 •Holley Carb Tips
 •Aussie Locker
 •C6 203 205 Doubler
 •4 Link
 •Clutch Replacement
 •Early Turn Signals
 •C4 Improvements
 •Threaded Dipstick
 •NV3550 5 spd
     More Tech...
Ford Bronco Parts - Classic Vintage Early Bronco Parts

Welcome to the ClassicBroncos.com Forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a GUEST which limits your access to viewing only. To take advantage of all the forum features please take a moment to register. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact the admin. If you've lost your password click here.

Go Back   ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11/10/18, 12:33 PM   #1
guidoverduci
Contributor
Sr. Member
 
Joined: Mar 12
Posts: 404
Garage
Lift install questions on front end

Hello, Im just about to wrap up the WH 3.5 install. Just a couple questions...

Currently rear is all complete and the front is all in and bolted with the exception of steering linkage and tires. Ive got a drop pitman arm and a trac bar drop bracket. Is there a certain order I should finish up the steering and tires in order to keep everything straight? Any things to watch out for or tips for newbie perspective for the remaining install steps?

As far as steering linkage, I was going to go with the 1 ton ruffstuff style kit, but I dont have a reamer tool or welder. I am now leaning towards the 4 way adjustable linkage WH sells since its pretty much bolt in. With 35s and the 3.5 lift with mostly street driving and highway trips, is that sufficient? Thanks!

73- 351w/T170, 3.5 SL, 3.50 gears 😬
guidoverduci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/10/18, 12:55 PM   #2
DirtDonk
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
DirtDonk's Avatar
 
San Jose, CA
Joined: Nov 03
Posts: 31,958
Yes, way more than sufficient for that. It's not the "most beefy" compared to some, but it's way stronger than stock and plenty of us are running stock with the same size tires.
It's a very strong setup. But the main advantage and why it qualifies for the "in order to keep everything straight" part of your question.

With just the dropped arm and bracket, there's not really any order, or anything else that you can do to fine-tune the centering of the steering. Well, other than making sure the box is centered before you install the new arm. Since it's no longer keyed like the stock one, it's up to you to make sure the box is perfectly centered first.
The parts alone are pretty good at getting stuff re-centered when the vehicle is back on the ground, but the adjustable draglink is really the key. And that comes with the new linkage as you noted.

So no, just install the arm and bracket and you're good to go there.
To verify the box is on-center, simply turn it lock to lock (before any linkage is connected of course) counting the full number of turns right down to a gnat's you-know-what. Then turn it back exactly half-way.
If the steering wheel is perfectly in center, you're done there. But if not, you need to re-orient the wheel so that it's a precise indicator of where the box is. From then on out you can simply look at the wheel to know where the box is.

At this point the pitman arm should be pointed roughly straight back down the frame rail. It does not have to be totally precisely straight, but it should be within 5 to 10 degrees of centered. Which is one spline either way.

After you install the rest of the linkage and set your toe-in, go for a drive. If the steering wheel is off-center when the Bronco is going straight down the road, adjust the drag link shorter or longer to re-center the box.
Then you're pretty much done.

You can set your own toe-in in the driveway/garage of course, but I always liked to get a pro readout from an alignment rack so I know what I'm starting at. You can make slight toe-in adjustments any time you want after that, and fine-tune the driving experience. Different wheel and tire combinations sometimes different toe settings.
But a full readout of your settings will also give you a reference point on your caster and camber angles so you can see if you need to address anything there too.

Did you go with the tapered shims under the back leaf springs? It's still not a 100% requirement, and here again it seems that every Bronco is different, but we're finding more and more people needing them. I've got them on mine.
Just mentioning it in case you were not familiar with it, so you can pay close attention to any slight driveline vibrations you might not otherwise notice. Usually under deceleration more than anywhere else.

Good luck!

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
DirtDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/10/18, 12:59 PM   #3
DirtDonk
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
DirtDonk's Avatar
 
San Jose, CA
Joined: Nov 03
Posts: 31,958
Oh, I forgot to address two common issues that come up when installing our steering linkage.
For one, it is NOT made of stainless steel, even though it looks as if it could weather a Michigan decade! It can't, so paint it with your favorite color rattle can paint. Even the threaded ends.
If you're planning to powder coat, do not coat the threads. But simple spray paint is fine and will keep the threads happy longer. A little anti-seize and paint go a long way here.

The other is the angle of adjustment.
Before you fiddle with the draglink adjustments, make sure that the main tie-rod centerlink matches your old stock angles. If you don't have your linkage anymore for comparison, you can use the picture on our web page.
Basically the tapered hole for the draglink should be pointed upward at roughly a 60 angle. This points it at somewhere between the radiator and bumper I think. Closer to the radiator.
Doing this first, and keeping it there any time you fiddle with toe-in adjustments will give a more linear steering feel when driving. And should lower wear and tear on the tie-rod ends as well.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
DirtDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/10/18, 01:09 PM   #4
SteveL
Super dick
 
SteveL's Avatar
 
66 &72 w/351, 4spd, 4whl disc.

Hawthorne, ca
Joined: Jun 01
Posts: 8,151
It's pretty simple if just running a drop bracket instead of an adjustable track bar. If your old tie rods are still on replace em with the new lower stuff (knuckle to knuckle) without moving the tires. Hopefully that keeps your alignment pretty good. Then install trak bar and drag link.if drag link is adjustable there's more to it. Once tire alignment is good, with track bar installed get tires straight with frame. Attatch lower drag link first. With drag link off pitman cycle steering wheel lock to lock counting turns,and center box. Then adjust and attatch upper end of drag link. To get things perfect you might also want an adjustable track bar. If you go that route get the trak bar on and adjusted before doing the drag link. To install adjustable trak bar center the front axle to the frame with upper trak bar and drag link disconnected. Then adjust trak bar and install. Then adjust and install drag link
SteveL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/10/18, 01:25 PM   #5
guidoverduci
Contributor
Sr. Member
 
Joined: Mar 12
Posts: 404
Garage
Thanks gents! I’ve got enough to work with. Paul- I didn’t use any shims on the leafs springs, just what came with the kit. Hopefully I’ll be good! Thanks

73- 351w/T170, 3.5 SL, 3.50 gears 😬
guidoverduci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/11/18, 12:20 PM   #6
DirtDonk
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
DirtDonk's Avatar
 
San Jose, CA
Joined: Nov 03
Posts: 31,958
No problem. Just keep an eye/ear/butt-dyno out for anything unusual. If it's not there, it's not there and you're good to go. If it is though, then you'll know how to get rid of it.

It's not like an automatic death sentence or anything either. My '68 ran around for a couple of years and a few thousand miles before adding the shims to reduce an occasional vibration. Felt like the tires in fact (BFG muds) but wasn't.
Still running the same u-joints and everything though, as they were not damaged.

But certainly over the years/miles a vibration would reduce the service life of the u-joints.
And, if you happen to have an NV3550 trans (and maybe the AX15 too?) you'll hear it in a rattling in the transmission during shifts.
Don't know how the T-170's act in the same situations, but if you hear any funny noises coming from the trans under certain circumstances after the lift, you might know which direction to look.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
DirtDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

Thread Tools

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:19 AM.


Bulletin Board Software by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.


This site created, owned and maintained by Jon Hanna
Copyright 1996-2018 All rights reserved. Privacy Statement
ClassicBroncos.com is not affiliated with Ford Motor Company

Page generated in 0.29558 seconds with 62 queries