I have read and watched a bunch of tech articles on the interwebs and I am getting multiple answers on how far to turn the rocker stud nut after the push rod is tight. I have heard/read anywhere between 1/4 turn to one full turn.
That's because there are actually multiple answers based on individual cirsumstances and individual preferences. And individual quirks of the particular engine.
Usually, the factory specification is a good place to start. Can't remember for the Fords, but all GM hydraulic lifters that I ever worked on were 1-turn after zero lash.
I usually used the 1/2 turn number myself after awhile. But spent many a mile on lifters adjusted to the factory spec.
See? The multiple answers continue!
how do I tell what kind of rocker I have, solid or hydraulic (I'm a newby engine guy)?
It's actually referring to the lifter, not the rockers. Though the rockers for one are certainly different from the other. But not always?
The most certain way to tell what you have is to look at the lifters. If they have a separate spring-loaded piston down in the center that you can push on and feel it move, it's hydraulic.
If it's one-piece with no moveable parts at all, it's a solid lifter.
I stupidly just started tightening the rocker stud nuts in hopes of fixing a slight ticking noise when my engine was running.
Yeah, unfortunately a ticking hydraulic lifter is rarely an adjustment issue. It's more often either a stuck or worn out lifter.
In those cases though, here is where one of the oil additives designed to "clean and quiet noisy sticky lifters" with mild ticking. They take awhile to work sometimes, but I've never had one fail to work as advertised.
Unfortunately, if they don't work, it's likely not the additive's fault as much as it is the lifter is just too far gone to be salvaged.
When that happens it's time to replace them. My '71 had ticking lifters with only about 75k miles on it, but with the use of additives ("snake oil") by 80k all the noise was gone. Finally returned at about 110k so I replaced the lifters.
For you guys that use the "spinning" method, you really have to have a finely-tuned touch to know when it's at zero lash. On many engines you can continue to turn the pushrod in a very smooth manner well after you've reached zero lash.
Same goes for up-n-down play though. You still need to have a light touch, but it's easier to tell when you're at zero.
Maybe with all the stuff being brand new it's not as easy to spin them and you'll feel the difference right away. But with a worn-in rocker/pushrod/lifter setup, they will spin easily even when too tight.
Paul
