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73 Explorer Rebuild: year 8/9/10/11

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Today connected up all the engine, ignition, trailrocker and MSD and remaining front light, washer/brake warning wires.

Taking a few days off now.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Wired 75% of Dakota digital, just need turn signal and brake side hooked up,

Next up run painless trailrocker wire to floor just to setup fuel pump switch.

Last thing, rear wire harness connectc to rear lights. Done with mockup of harness.

Then, full-on power test.

I'd show pictures but it literally looks like a box of 1000 lose wires exploded into the bronco. As the test confirms it all works, then rerouting and tie wrapping and taping as required to make it look nice.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Dakota digital wired, tested with 12v for function, it works very nice. Only looks like 100 wires exploded now.

Tomorrow plan to run full body harness test with batt charger.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Finishing up last of body to dash connections, I go to install key lock into ignition switch, doesn't fit. Finally after a lot of coaxing, it goes in, but now the key will not come out of on wiothout using pliers to turn the key. Remove the switch assembly, find it's a bad switch, about 9 out of 10 times the key wont turn out of on unless pliers are used to force it over. Luckily, 10 years into this I have a second switch, it works smoothly.

Also found, you cannot even begin to install key lock into switch if you have a powedercoated dash and are using the stainless steel key protector which was sold but cant find it anymore, its too thick with all those new layers between the key bezel powdercoat stainless key protector, switch cup alignment device and switch..

Now i get to rewire a new switch, one step forward three jumps back...
 

DirtDonk

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Oh yeah, the infamous powder coated dash and stainless dash protector ploy! Caught many an unwary Bronco owner in the middle.

Probably would have worked fine with an original switch, but not so much with the new ones. All that added pressure of trying to squeeze the spring really cocks things up.

Probably more than a few EB's rolling around right now with the ignition switch dangling underneath.;D
Hey, I'm sure they're only temporary... Unless it works!%)

Paul
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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2,987 days since I first posted, it works.

Electrical power on test worked excellently.

Used battery charger, first at 2 amps, but headlights needed 10 amp setting.

Isolated Mallory MSD for later test before engine run, but I know motor runs fine.

Now, I just have to make it all look like a rat has not been ripping things apart.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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3,074 days.

Had major home repairs needed, of course, again, as usual.

Wow time flys.

Jan 21, 2020, Dash is in and power tested.

I need to straighten up under the dash, connect heater hose, then install steering wheel and shaft, seats, check for steering position, order collapsable shaft, then rollcage, then top, then doors. Then fluids

So by 2021.

Actually want this rolling by Feb.
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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3,100 days

Roll cage and top back on or in, not bolted.

Dynomatting underside of top.

Reinstalling stock wiper mount and cover.

Installed doors. First time in 8 years with doors.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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3,108 days since start.

Registered and insured it. Street legal again, first time since 2009.

Top bolted and adjusted.

Seats next. Belts, Center console, engine fluids.

Need to quick wire the painless trailrocker box because that is a hot switch for my fuel pump. Once I get it proven I'll permanent the trailbox under dash or on rollcage,

Hope to be around the block by end of week.
 

sprdv1

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Good luck.. you got this :)

3,108 days since start.

Registered and insured it. Street legal again, first time since 2009.

Top bolted and adjusted.

Seats next. Belts, Center console, engine fluids.

Need to quick wire the painless trailrocker box because that is a hot switch for my fuel pump. Once I get it proven I'll permanent the trailbox under dash or on rollcage,

Hope to be around the block by end of week.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Ha!. I started counting only cause I thought i was within days, now inside a week.

Three days ago I started what I thought would be a half day putting in seats I already fit. Well, guess what happens when you put in dynoline, pad, etc. New bolts needed all around. Headliner, so, lesson learned for all you all, put the rear headliner in, before top goes on. With a family cage, it's time consuming lifting up one side, drilling, reversing to other side.

Had an electrical issue, seems the inertia switch I wired, the plug on the switch had a wire pull out, only took a few minutes to find/ Only found it because when I bypassed the hot ignition input to the painless trailrocker setup, the trailrocker worked and I thought maybe the inertia switch had triggered, moved it and found the lose wire. new one here tomorrow.

Broken wire has been only the second Painless harness flaw, the first being I'm on my third starter switch, and it's never left the garage, first two dead, this one a little sticky and likes to stay in start vs returning to ON by itself, will work on that later. I think there are a whole bunch of bad starter switches out there.

Test cranked motor, turns nice and fast, got spark from coil tester off msd. Just need fuel.

Finished bolting trailrocker to top rollbar in front of wiper cover. Original plan was left side roll cage, but not enough room, good news, i can use emer brake pedal and handle with no mod needed.

Need to adjust dakota dash to specs, fuel and speedo.

Flipped KC lights from on top to below cross bar on front bumper. Looks less pre runner like that, more old school.

Cleaned up garage, a bunch.

No plan survives first contact. Ever.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Installed shocks and speedy bleeders for brake job. thread 3/8-24 for rear drums

Rancho9000xl

front RS999038 rear 999010

Front ride height 23 inches, rear 19 1/2 inches.

Bolts 1/2 2.5 and 3 inch 1/2 fine thread grade 8.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Ride height is wrong term, sorry, length is at ride height measured from shock mount to shock mount. Did a floor jack compression and extension, those exceed my limits by about 5 inches either direction.

I can't catch a break, it's pouring rain, will pour for a week, in AZ, WTH, and btw one of my Ranch RS9000xl shocks is dead on arrival, no preload pressure, have to wait till Thursday for replacement. Since I have the four wheels off to make it easier to bleed brakes and do the shocks, they stay off as well, totally rusting my front disks, perfect... Grrrr.
 

DirtDonk

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I always paint my discs around the edge at the fins, and in the center around the hub.
If I get a little overspray I don't worry too much, as it's going to get ground off and does not seem to clog the friction material at all.
But at least the area that's not in contact with the pads does not rust.

Won't stop the rust from the friction surface of course, but that'll go away after the first stop or two.

Paul
 

sprdv1

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Always something for sure

Ride height is wrong term, sorry, length is at ride height measured from shock mount to shock mount. Did a floor jack compression and extension, those exceed my limits by about 5 inches either direction.

I can't catch a break, it's pouring rain, will pour for a week, in AZ, WTH, and btw one of my Ranch RS9000xl shocks is dead on arrival, no preload pressure, have to wait till Thursday for replacement. Since I have the four wheels off to make it easier to bleed brakes and do the shocks, they stay off as well, totally rusting my front disks, perfect... Grrrr.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Sorry figured more important to do than say;

Shocks installed,

Brakes bled, old fashioned way, easier than speedy bleeder this time.

Starter seized, replaced with 95 F150 from autozone.

Double checked prelube, pulled distributor and verified oil pressure with drill and home made pump drive.

Replaced serp belt that ripped up, aligned PS pump pulley.

In process of bleeding P/S system, way to much air, might have to mighty vac the lines. I do have a section which is not straight might be catching air.

Filled all the fluids, no drips yet. I have a fear this motor sat for 6 years so intake and water pump a concern.

Started and set base timing at 10 for right now, starts and idles great. Sounds awesome, just loud enough, not to loud.

Issues, Dakota Digital VHX appears to operate fine, programmed fine, but when engine is on, it's dead. With key in on not started, it works fine. Hope it's just a lose wire at dakota connection.

Some reason Retro sound radio stopped diplsaying, will check fuse later.

Need to put on inside door handles and cranks so I can get out if it blows up, then test drive.

Need to mount evap canister, probably after of passenger wheel, no real room up behind fender.

Vlean up dash wiring loom on floor

Install emer brake bracket, but boy does that cable seem way to short....
 
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