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1970 Rebuild

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SevenT

SevenT

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 5

Final Pic for Phase 5.

Forgot to mention that the front body mount requires a hole saw and a magnet to install. Hole saw the pocket in the tub, secure the other six body mounts and then drill the bottom of the tub for access. Use the magnet to install the washer and bolt. BTW, all standard bolts will be about 1" to 1 1/2" short. I had accounted for a 1" lift and had gotten bolts that were 1" longer and still missed by an inch on all of them. Pictures to follow this evening.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 6

Cut the inner fender apron to get the fuel filler neck to fit. Asked a few questions about the wiper wiring and wound up drilling a hole just like the factory to get the wiring into the cowl and behind the dash. Installed the windshield hinge to the cowl with 21 1/4/20 machine screws with beveled heads. Also ran a bead of 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive /Sealant around the periphery of the hinge area and around all screw holes. Made plates to go underneath the dash to pull against instead of the fiberglass. Next is the dash wiring with the new Centech harness. Coming along nicely now.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 7

Rolled the entire interior with Herculiner this weekend. Even did the flares to give them some texture. Began the wiring of the dash with the new Centech harness. I read that you should keep your old harness and reuse connectors as necessary. Case in point, the hazard switch. Reused the old plastic case for the new wires. Connected the fuel sending wire to the Dakota Digital data block. Connected the ignition switch and wiper switch. This is the slow and tedious phase, but well worth it.

Anyone need an ignition switch and wiper switch (I did not use the ones from Centech since I had delay wipers from an '84 Ford and a new ignition because my old one crumbled upon disassembly)?
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Dakota Digitial cluster and Centech harness

Decided to update all switches in the dash since new wiring and 46 year old switches should not mix. Working on wiring the dash and have a few questions.
Has anyone done a Centech harness and Dakota Digital cluster in their truck?
1. Can you use the battery line as constant 12 volts since no original ammeter in use?
2. Where did you get ACC (key on 12V) connection for the cluster?
Not willing to plow virgin soil if someone has already done it and I can benefit from their experience. Thanks in advance.
 

thomasstemmle

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
120
Loc.
Las Vegas
Wow. Your progress looks amazing. I am very interested in this, as my body is shot. I feel like $5-6k is a lot of money for a tub, but would save a ton of time and money over rust repair. Great job and good luck with the rest of the build!
 
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SevenT

SevenT

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 8

Got back to work on the wiring and connected all of the Dakota Digital cluster connections: fuel sender, blinkers, high beams, 12V constant (original cluster instrument power), brake warning. Installed at momentary switch in the old brake warning light location (necessary to setup the Dakota Digital). Installed the new glove box liner and installed the fuse block. Ran the harness through the firewall to the engine compartment. The oil, temp and speed sensors will go in next to the Dakota Digital.

I have one last question from those who have a Centech harness. Where can I get key-on 12V from to power the Dakota Digital accessory input and be used as the voltmeter input on the Dakota Digital??

Thanks in advance.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 9

It has been a couple of weeks since an update, so this is what has been happening.
I noticed that I was missing two inputs to the Dakota Digital (CEL and Tach). These come from the engine harness. Can't wire them up without the engine installed. Looked at the Dakota Digital speed sensor and noticed that the output would not have a connection like a factory Ford VSS. Asked the question and some fellow Bronco nuts chimed in and Yakleys69 sent me a link to some work done to piggyback the Ford VSS and Dakota Digital. The end of the Dakota Digital was too big to fit into the Ford VSS and I didn't want to ruin the plastic, so I had a machine shop remove .030 on the Dakota Digital and it fits tightly into the Ford VSS. I plan on running a long bolt to tie the two together and provide strain relief. Now the Dakota Digital gets what it wants and the A9L gets what it wants.
Before the engine goes in, the inner fenders needed to be installed. The pictures show the lip on the outside of the tub and a smooth area on the inside that can be filled with sealant. I used 5/16x18 nutserts on the lip and bolted them to the fender apron. While I was at it, i installed the rear flares onto the tub and they came out nice. Used machine screw with finish washers and nylock nuts instead of rivets. Just need to paint them black since there will be no shiny on the outside of the truck.
The engine needs a new rear main seal and oil pan and then it can take its place in the frame rails and I can pull the engine harness through the firewall and get the dash finished and in place. I can see daylight at the end of this tunnel now.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 10

Got some work done on the Bronco this week. Pulled the engine out of the corner and pulled the oil pan off (leaked like a sieve at the drain plugs). Pulled the main cap to change the rear main seal. No excessive wear on the main bearings were evident. Replaced the rear main with supplied seal install tool and replaced the main cap and torqued to specs. Installed new one piece oil pan gasket and new oil pan. Rolled the engine over on the stand and shot all of the junk off of it with Brake Clean.
Installed the temperature and oil pressure sending units for the Dakota Digital. Dropped the engine in and snaked the EFI harness into the cab to attach the Tach and Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Check Engine Light (CEL) wires to the Dakota Digital. Connected the RJM EFI harness to the Centech for the temperature and oil pressure wires (not used in my application) and the Ignition Power to turn on the relays in the RJM harness.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 11

Got some more accomplished on the Bronco this weekend.
After finishing the wiring to the Dakota Digital, the dash is installed and the dash pad is on. Installed the heater box and attached control cables and wiring. Hid the ECU behind the dash and just above the heater box (this location may change depending on heat. However, I used Lizard Skin ceramic insulation on both sides of the firewall. We will wait and see). Did some wiring harness routing on both sides of the engine compartment. Mounted the RJM EFI harness relays and fuse holder as well as a new starter solenoid. Tapped a hole in the frame and installed a piece of all-thread to make a ground point. Engine, battery, dash, starter solenoid and grille will ground at this single point. Ran the wiring harness for the headlights. Pulled the battery box and painted it, waiting on paint to dry before installation. It is looking more and more like its former self (just rust free).
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 12

Got more work done on the Bronco.
Following the instruction from Centech, I made the connections for new pigtails to the blinkers and for the stop/taillights. Have to wait on pigtails to complete the back up lights. I found that if you punch the original pigtail out of the bucket, you can massage the opening and get the new pigtails to fit nicely. I will continue this project with the taillight buckets. Managed to install harness routing on the passenger side and install the battery tray. Moved to the back and did the marker lights with 8/32 nutserts and stainless hardware. Installed the taillight buckets to just see what it will look like and it looks like a Bronco from behind. Installed the starter alignment plate and the flywheel. Sealed the bolts with thread sealant to prevent oil leaks. Installed the pilot bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate.
 

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sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Looking good man.

Got more work done on the Bronco.
Following the instruction from Centech, I made the connections for new pigtails to the blinkers and for the stop/taillights. Have to wait on pigtails to complete the back up lights. I found that if you punch the original pigtail out of the bucket, you can massage the opening and get the new pigtails to fit nicely. I will continue this project with the taillight buckets. Managed to install harness routing on the passenger side and install the battery tray. Moved to the back and did the marker lights with 8/32 nutserts and stainless hardware. Installed the taillight buckets to just see what it will look like and it looks like a Bronco from behind. Installed the starter alignment plate and the flywheel. Sealed the bolts with thread sealant to prevent oil leaks. Installed the pilot bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate.
 
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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 13

More work completed on the Bronco.

Finished the taillight buckets and the wiring was the same as the blinkers, tap the old fitting out, enlarge the hole and the replacement pigtails fit. The backup light was another thing, the fitting is flared into the bucket (see picture, no replacing that). I just changed the wire out from one of the new pigtails. Installed the led taillight assembly and the lenses themselves. Finished the wiring to the back of the truck and routed it along the underneath of the tub. Wired the wipers and left the dome light wires for a connection into the wiper cover. Connected the fuel sender and fuel pump power leads underneath. Wired the alternator and installed the windshield washer tank. Mounted the high beam floor switch. Replaced the light switch after I installed it upside down and crushed it when I installed the dash (s**t happens).
 

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t120r

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
629
Your project is really coming along nicely. I had a few issues with my BD tub. Some of your pictures will help me overcome that.:) Thanks.
 
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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 14

More work on the Bronco,

I apologize in advance for the fuzziness of the pictures (late at night and tired hands).

Got the column in and secured. In the process of taking the hydroboost out to lengthen the pedal rod, broke one of the mounting ears off (Rock Auto to the rescue). Had to replace the power steering pump since someone before me broke something off in the shaft and I could not get the install tool to thread in to install the pulley (Rock Auto to the rescue again). Tried to mount the Saginaw pump and had thrown the brackets away a few years back (Tom's Bronco Parts to the rescue). Lengthened the pedal rod on the hydroboost and adjusted the brake pedal to the same height as the clutch. Installed the throttle cable. Installed my new intermediate shaft from Tom's Bronco Pats. Installed the remote hood latch cable, but did not mount the pull handle since it requires drilling into the bottom of the dash and I am afraid of hitting the Centech harness. This will take some finesse to get done.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 15

More work on the Bronco,

Finished the column and installed the Grant steering wheel. Installed the column cover and moved on to installing the upper plenum on the intake. It hits the master cylinder mounting tab on the hydroboost. Time for a 1/2" phenolic spacer for the intake. Installed the MAP sensor and vapor canister for the gas tank. Installed the remote hood latch from BC Broncos. Cut up the old steel tub for scrap. Saved the section of floor with the parking brake attachment points and lever on it for reuse under the BD tub. With winter coming the wife can at least park in her side of the garage now. That has not been true since the tub made it home from TX in May.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Phase 16

More Bronco work this week.

Got the 1 inch intake spacer in and installed and the intake still hit the master cylinder on the hydroboost. So tight, you could not fit a piece of paper between them. Removed the steering column and hydroboost and found some composite shims and put two each under the top and bottom section of the hydroboost and viola there is room between the intake and hydroboost (see pictures). Pulled all of the parking brake parts off of the old steel tub and installed them into the BD tub and it works like a charm. The top plate is for pressure distribution to keep the fiberglass from cracking.
 

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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Need some help

Have not posted much in the last two weeks because I have run into some difficulty with my engine.

When I did the EFI swap back in 2010, I swapped the harmonic balancer for one that was drilled for the factory V belt pulley (3 bolt vs. Mustang 4 bolt). The balancer does not have mechanical marks but labels for all the possible timing configurations. It is so rusted, you cannot see the marks, so I bought another one.

In the process of taking the old balancer off, the bolt will loosen but not come out of the end of the crank. I honestly cannot remember if I used the bolt to pull the balancer on 7 years ago, if so I believe I have stretched the threads and that is why the bolt will not come out.

Any thoughts on resolving this issue without pulling the engine back out of the truck??
 
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SevenT

SevenT

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Messages
496
Loc.
Southern Colorado
Status Update

Have not worked on the Bronco since the middle of November. Had issues with the harmonic balancer bolt and took the upper intake off to get the engine to lean back to get straight line access to the balancer bolt.

:mad:In the process of taking the upper intake off, I tweaked my lower back and may have done some permanent damage.

As of now the Bronco rebuild is on indefinite hold.

Thanks for all of the questions/comments and support. I could not have done this much without help from others more knowledgeable than me.

My hope is to dive back in and finish this in the spring. Have to wait and see what the doctor says.
 
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