Explorer Rear Disc Swap on Medium Duty Large Bearing 1974 Bronco

Specific questions on the rear disc brake conversion compatibility for my Bronco. Here’s a little background for you…... I have a 1974 Bronco with the medium duty axle and large bearings (MDLB) and 10”X1.75” drum brakes. I believe the axle flange style is referred to as the “Torino Style”, but I’m not 100% sure on that. I have acquired a complete rear brake disc setup from a 1997 Ford Explorer. I’ve read a bunch on this specific conversion but wanted to make sure I’ve got it correct before proceeding. If you guys could give me some feedback on the questions below, It would greatly be appreciated.

Is the swap a 100% bolt on for my 1974 Bronco and the MDLB with the parts I have from the Explorer?

I know the Explorer rotors would have to be redrilled to the 5X5.5 pattern. What is the best way to do this? Maybe lay the drums on the rotors to mark the holes and drill it myself? Has anyone done this without taking it to a machine shop?

Axle flange offset issues? From what I understand, the 74-75 medium duty large bearing axles have the correct 2.5” offset. Is that correct? If not, do I need to order shims for the axle bearings to correct the difference?

From what I’ve read, I may have to grind the outside of the axle and the inside of the rotor hole to get the rotor to fit over the axle and parking brake shoes. Do I have this correct?

From what I understand, the explorer parking brake system can be used for the Bronco. What modifications to the parking brakes would need to be made if any? Do you use the explorer cables or the Bronco cables? Etc…..

What master cylinder would I need to run with disc on front and back? I currently have the stock drum master cylinder with no power assist.

Morris

Just finished mine. If you have Torino ends the backing plates will bolt up. I drilled my rotors the way you described. Center of rotor will need opened up to match axle hub center. Axle flange OD will need to be machined to fit inside rotors. You need spacers from Currie for the bearing seals to take up space to allow for the thicker backing plates. I used brake cables from Wild Horses. I am using explorer master cylinder with T Bird front disk calipers. Awesome brakes! Did machining myself but I have a lathe

I've done a couple and pretty much what cbolt has already said, I used Lokar cables and have made my own spacers from old bearing races. By the time you pay a machine shop to modify your rotors you might just want to buy a set from Currie.

X2 what the last 2 just posted .

I ran this exact rear brake setup for at least 12 yrs.
I ended up going to an Astovan hydro boost on the same brake system. Excellent pedal feel and stopping power. Make sure you install an adj proportioning valve to dial the bias in.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Could you guys explain a bit more about the bearing spacers and what I need to do to make sure it's done correctly? Pictures and\or part numbers from Currie would be great. This will be my first time working on the rear axle to this extent (other than changing the pinion seal).

If you call Dutchman axles or Currie you dont need a part number. They will know exactly what you are talking about. I needed an extra yrs ago, i called Dutchman and he shipped one out.

EZ

Good luck, you'll like your brakes

nvrstuk said:

X2 what the last 2 just posted .

I ran this exact rear brake setup for at least 12 yrs.
I ended up going to an Astovan hydro boost on the same brake system. Excellent pedal feel and stopping power. Make sure you install an adj proportioning valve to dial the bias in.

Click to expand...

I'm finishing mine up now...
Nvrstuk, wondering what master cylinder you are running with your Astro hydroboost?

Unless you're a machinist, just buy rotors. Not worth the headache and cost of redrilling.

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bradform said:

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Could you guys explain a bit more about the bearing spacers and what I need to do to make sure it's done correctly? Pictures and\or part numbers from Currie would be great. This will be my first time working on the rear axle to this extent (other than changing the pinion seal).

Click to expand...

https://www.currieenterprises.com/ce-6012-spacer

CE-6012-SPACER

Thanks to everyone on the responses. One additional question. Can I run just a master cylinder without a regular booster or hydro boost on this setup. I plan to ultimately go there, but not right now if I can. If it will work, what master cylinder is a direct bolt up (year, make and model)? Also, I’ve read debate on smaller versus larger master cylinder bores regarding the stiffness of the pedal. Any opinions there from the group?


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Sandmann3...

Astro M/C with Astro hydro boost...reasons---
they are paired at the factory, no leaks due to plastic m/c, works great with T-bird and Exploder setup, excellent pedal feel, excellent pedal stroke. I've run 7 different complete systems/combinations, stopped 37"s w/o any effort and it is/was the most balanced.

I just pulled this system last year but ran it for 7 yrs issue free.

bradform said:

Thanks to everyone on the responses. One additional question. Can I run just a master cylinder without a regular booster or hydro boost on this setup. I plan to ultimately go there, but not right now if I can. If it will work, what master cylinder is a direct bolt up (year, make and model)? Also, I’ve read debate on smaller versus larger master cylinder bores regarding the stiffness of the pedal. Any opinions there from the group?


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Click to expand...

Many just run the stock MC.

Are there perhaps better suited bores?
Maybe.
I am running and F-250 manual brake MC from '73. It works but the bore is too large for my application. Stiff pedal but I like it,

Mid 80s D100. Plastic reservoir

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Yes you can run manual brakes with discs up front with the stock mc. My buddy is running his that way still. Stock drums rear with Ford discs up front

Question for everyone. When bolting the Explorer backing plate on my axle, do I need to buy longer backing plate to axle bolts? The stock Bronco bolts don’t appear to be long enough to get the nut started. Those details may have been in other post. I looked, but couldn’t find it. Thanks and Merry Christmas to all.







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My bad. The spacer was hung up by the backing plate and causing the issue. Some finagling into place and she went together nicely.


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