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No spark. (UPDATE: figured it out)

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Oh, and factory coils shouldn't have to be grounded to the chassis/engine to work.
I can't vouch for all aftermarket coils, but the standard oil-filled canister types don't usually have to have their cases grounded.
It probably wouldn't hurt anyway, but it's not mandatory.

I ran one wrapped in rags for months on my daily-driver while I fiddled around with things, and it ran just fine.

Paul
 
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ObscureMachine

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,998
Loc.
World Headquarters
Most everything I read said that you didn't need a ballast resister if you were using a pertronix ignitor. Apparently that's not the case. Hooked up the BR to the coil, then ran a separate 12v to the dizzy, and............WaBAM! She fired right up.

Carb is wonky, but I'll deal with that when I get back from vacay.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Glad it's running. Hopefully that was the only issue, and not one of a tag-team!

Seems to be lots of confusion regarding the hookup of an Ignitor, and the instructions haven't helped clear that up much over the years.
The bottom line though, as I understand it, is that no matter what system you're using, a stock type coil is supposed to stay with the stock type hookup, while the Ignitor ALWAYS gets a full 12 volts.

Yes, some are running a ballasted Ignitor and it runs just fine, but more often than not, if you reduce the voltage to the Ignitor, it doesn't function consistently.
And if you run too much voltage through a coil, you can overheat it and reduce it's effectiveness. Or even kill it dead. Like permanently man...

Only exception to the voltage to the coil is if you actually change the coil to one that's meant to run off of full voltage too.

Paul
 
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