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Old 08/09/17, 07:40 PM   #1
Creston1410
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What's the right move - Fuel Tank Swap on my 72'

I'm a newbie Bronco owner for all of about two weeks. I bought a 72' in pretty good shape and have decided to start my resto with a disc brake conversion and fuel system rebuild. The aux and main rear tank have been sitting for about 15 years. I have her running off a temporary jug squeezed under the hood. What's the right move when it comes to rebuilding the fuel system with tanks, hoses, pumps, etc? The two tanks are in fine exterior shape but the neck and lines are corroded good. I'm battling in my head to have them cleaned, sealed, and put back in with new lines & instrumentation but have also considered just replacing with new. Then there's the pump and EFI decision vs standard in tank kit. This is the first money i'll be putting into the bronco, whats the right move for the money?
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Old 08/09/17, 09:09 PM   #2
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try to get a look inside the tanks. diiesel fuel and small piece of chain shake it around can clean the tanks pretty well just depends how they look
do not know thout a picture

77 5.0 4R70W 3.5 sl 1bl PS pb 35 mt
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Old 08/09/17, 09:15 PM   #3
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New oem metal main tanks are really cheap from the vendors today....like $160 bucks.

I used Ospho and a few chains in my stock rear tank about 30 years ago....they didn't have such inexpensive replacements back then...


I run a poly tank today. No more rust issues.

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff Long Arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, 3G, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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Old 08/09/17, 09:16 PM   #4
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I tried to clean out one recently that had been sitting with some fuel in it since 1990, they rust just kept on coming and I replaced it. Too cheap and easy not too like said above.

1971 U15 302/np435/twin sticks
1966 U14 Born 9/65'
1966 U15 Born 10/65'
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Old 08/09/17, 09:51 PM   #5
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First of all, congrats on your new-to-you Bronco! The '72's were a good year in many areas.

Well, for the auxiliary (side) tank you won't have any rust issues other than some debris from an extremely rusty sending unit. But that's not as common as other rusty areas on Broncos unless you're in a moister climate. Hmm, GA eh? No moisture issues there I'm sure!
Could explain the crusty filler necks.
A simple cleaning of the plastic tank then would be pretty straightforward I would think.

For the rear main tank, other than the plastic '77's rust could be harder to fight. Like was already said, if it's light you can clean it and move on with your life. If not, then I would spend the money (I know, easy for me to say...) on a new and probably larger tank.
As said too, you can get a stock replacement pretty inexpensively. If you're going to drive this Bronco much though, you would be well advised to at least consider a larger 23 gallon replacement.

If you're going with EFI in the future (especially if in the near future) then it's good to just get one already made up with the in-tank pump ready to run.
Or, a newer option is to get the standard tank and add one of these: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...newproducts-EB to it.
in tank pump add on.png
It would be slightly less expensive, and looks to be pretty slick setup.
Never used one myself though, so can't speak from experience.

The EFI ready 23 gallon tanks are more expensive by a bit, but you do gain the added capacity and the ability to work with a body lift if you get certain types.
Not that the last bit makes much difference when comparing to stock though. The only real advantages would be the added capacity and the better baffling for fuel control.

As I said, it's easy for me to spend your money for you. I'm a vendor too, but think I'm speaking pretty logically in this case. You can still choose from several of us Bronco vendors that have good products.
Shipping even becomes an issue with something this large too, so that's another aspect that's at least worth adding to the mix of things to consider.

Good luck!

By the way... Is the 5th digit in your VIN a "P" or a "Q" by any chance? If so add your info to Viperwolf1's thread about that. Keeping track of the changes between the '72 and '73 model years, and exactly when they were implemented.
It's a fun thread anyway though, so check it out.
Don't have a link, but if you use the search function above and go to "advanced search" and search for threads STARTED by Viperwolf1 it should pop up near the top of the list.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 08/10/17, 05:37 AM   #6
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X2.. prob the best move.

Welcome aboard as well! Good to have ya w/us

Quote:
Originally Posted by bronconut73 View Post
New oem metal main tanks are really cheap from the vendors today....like $160 bucks.

I used Ospho and a few chains in my stock rear tank about 30 years ago....they didn't have such inexpensive replacements back then...


I run a poly tank today. No more rust issues.

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Old 08/10/17, 10:42 AM   #7
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thanks folks - good stuff. so would the better move here be to replace the rear main with a plastic larger capacity 23 gallon and take the side auxiliary completely out of the equation? i believe the side aux is 10 gallons and the rear stock main is 13 gallons, so going with an extra capacity rear replacement gets me the same capacity in one tank, better longevity with plastic, less parts to service over time, and the option for EFI in tank. what i give up appears to be keeping the traditional stock parts and having an aux tank "backup" if anything goes funny with the main. If i consider the EFI in tank pump, what other components/investment am i looking at towards a fuel injection system conversion?
I noticed with the larger aftermarket rear tanks that the tank sits much lower and therefore more visible from the rear. how can i tell if my truck has been lifted at all and if so, what length lift it has? it looks like it has been but again, i'm a rookie. see pic attached, if more pics would help i can certainly oblige. THANKS everyone.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Full Image - Driver Side.jpg (120.5 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg back drivers side axle.jpg (74.9 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Front axle.jpg (103.1 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg image2.JPG (105.9 KB, 42 views)
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Old 08/10/17, 11:57 PM   #8
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Congrats on your new Bronco!

Stock Bronco sits appr 7" between the frame rail and the axle tube up front and in the rear it will be close to 6" between the axle tube and the frame rail.

Strrroker powered... 418 cubes, 518 HP, SEFI, EDIS, Still 20+ forward gears...CB build:http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=278607 NWCB Stroker/SEFI/EDIS/4r70W/KluneV/TrueHi9 build: http://northwestclassicbroncos.com/s...n-to-SEFI-EDIS
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Old 08/11/17, 12:15 AM   #9
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Can you even put a an aftermarket/replacement 23 gallon plastic tank from the 77 in a 73 without lots of welding?

73 Explorer , 347stroker, NV4500 D20, Quadrajet spreadbore with manual altitude compensation, 4.1 ARB, Moser CTM Currie, 78 FSB disks, 76 Tbird calipers. 3.5 WH suspension lift, 2" Body lift for NV clearance.

Build here:http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...69#post1759569
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Old 08/11/17, 05:14 PM   #10
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I don't think there is a "plastic" 23 gallon tank.
I have a TBP plastic 14 gallon tank.

All the 23's are galvanized metal, and while we all have favorites they are all great in their own ways..

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff Long Arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, 3G, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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Old 08/12/17, 02:14 AM   #11
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Yeah, if you were thinking I meant that there was a plastic version of the large tanks for the '77's, I was referring to the stock 14 gallon plastic tank in a '77 not having the rust issues of the others.
All the common large tanks are steel. There certainly could be larger poly tanks, but I've never used one.

Stock '72 side tank is likely only about 7 gallons, and the rear main is 11-12 gallons.
Yes, there were variations over the years even though the basic shapes and sizes were the same, but according to some books they did vary over a two or three gallon range.
Not enough to write home about. Or even GET home with sometimes!

I like keeping both tanks, but I'd say at least half of the members here that have gone larger will get rid of their aux tanks completely. The others, if carbureted just keep things as they are. The EFI crowd will sometimes use two pumps, but more often than not they'll use the second pump to simply transfer fuel from the side tank over to the main when it runs low. Keeping only one set of fancy EFI fuel lines and pumps instead of duplicating it for two tanks.

They definitely sit lower. The most common ones have about a 2" difference between them. The alternative is a custom one of less capacity. There used to be a 20 gallon one for body-lifted Broncos, but it didn't gain any clearance upward. Just lost it's bump-out forward.

What nvrstuk said about suspension lifts. For a body lift, your stock rubber cushions were 3/4" tall when new. Anything less than that and they're old and have crushed down. Stock replacements, either in rubber or poly are still 3/4" tall.
We sell a 1" integrated body lift where the upper cushion is 1 3/4" tall, or if you find a spacer of 2" or 3" phenolic resin material or aluminum on top of a standard cushion, that's a 2 or 3 inch body lift.

Lots of stuff to adding EFI. And several different ways to proceed in each aspect as well.
Plenty of reading on that subject around here. Or we can run down the details if you know what you're shooting for.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 08/12/17, 11:06 PM   #12
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.. I Like all the advise above.
............
... But my advise is ... DON'T TEAR INTO YOUR BRONCO too fast ..Drive it some & LOVE IT for a while. Yes fixing the fuel tank is a weekend project . But stop there & drive it while you LEARN your Broncos needs.
.. Way too many New Bronco owners tear into their new Broncos & it never runs again.
...............
.... While your giving your Bronco It's TLC. YOUR Learning what your Bronco ready needs as it's next improvement.

............R. I. P. H. D. May 2nd 1999
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Old 08/13/17, 11:05 AM   #13
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My aux tank had a long crack in it that leaked (thanks ButtStank!) and I think gas had been sitting in the main tank since the Reagan years. It was a good investment to buy a large metal tank, plus I got the skid plate for some reason. It also freed up room under the driver, and i hated the idea of having a plastic gas tank right under my butt.

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Some square things, Some rusty things.

BUTTSTANK BRONCOS
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Old 08/13/17, 06:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa PITT View Post
.. I Like all the advise above.
............
... But my advise is ... DON'T TEAR INTO YOUR BRONCO too fast ..Drive it some & LOVE IT for a while. Yes fixing the fuel tank is a weekend project . But stop there & drive it while you LEARN your Broncos needs.
.. Way too many New Bronco owners tear into their new Broncos & it never runs again.
...............
.... While your giving your Bronco It's TLC. YOUR Learning what your Bronco ready needs as it's next improvement.
Agreed. Def enjoy it some during fixes

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Old 08/14/17, 09:07 PM   #15
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I have an Aux and main tank if you need them. Thanks.

76, 5.0 EFI, 4R70, 205, twin stix, 33's,
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