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Maup's build -5.0 EFI, NV3550, some bodywork.

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Hi all - been on the forum a while, I've learned quite a bit, but haven't had much to offer to others due to lack of experience. Now that I'm actually getting work done, I'm hoping I can share lessons learned and perhaps give or receive good ideas from everyone. I've had this bronco for a while, but haven't really done a whole lot of work on it over the last few years, mostly just collected parts in the corner of the garage. I never did a build thread originally but I'll cover some of the early stuff in this.

The time has come to install all those parts so I can finally drive this thing. We are going to the Outer Banks with the inlaws late July so I'd like to take this and do some beach driving! Its a 6-7hr drive from where we live so I'm trying to get it driving a few weeks ahead of time to shake out the gremlins.

What I started with:
1967 with a 302 2bbl/3spd, manual everything, drum brakes, stock suspension, limited slips front and rear, was uncut, but now its cut...I may have a few regrets there but it still looks good.

What it has now:
- 4 wheel disc brakes
- 3.5in suspension lift, 33in tires on 16x8's
- power brakes/power steering
- 302 2bbl/3spd
- Marine motor wipers (no old linkage)
- refurbed gauge cluster
- TBP family roll cage
- Corbeau front seats and 3pt harnesses

What is coming out now:
Wiring, 302 2bbl/3spd, old headlights, original fuel tank

Whats going back in:
- 5.0 EFI from 1999 Ford Explorer, engine/firewall harness reworked by EFI Guy, PCM flash by EFI Guy
- NV3550. I considered the AX15 but I already bought the NV so I'm just going with it. Got the swap kit from Advanced Adapters
- American Autowire chassis harness
- HID's with Halos from Heus
- Aerotanks 18gal EFI tank, in tank fuel pump, lots of plumbing
- Tuffy lockable glove box
- Probably a stereo of some kind, at the very least some speakers to run my phone through
- Soft top (storing the old hard top for now)

I'm largely ignoring the exterior bodywork because I know if I take it apart now it'll be years before its put back together. Just fixing some of the sheet metal in the engine bay, and will probably just spray it black while the engine is out. We pulled the dash to more easily do the wiring, and while the dash is out I plan on having it painted.

I am getting a lot of help from a local guy who isn't on the forums, but has been building Bronco's longer than I have been alive, so I can't take credit for all the work.

I'll post some pics this evening, but there are a couple in my garage.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Good stuff man, lots to do.. But making progress. :)
 
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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Pic 1: Pretty close to what I started with, Pic 2: how it sits now (except engine is gone), Pic 3: Engine pulling break during thunderstorm.

I'll post some before and afters of the 1999 Explorer rebuild soon. Right now working on fitting the advanced adapters kit to nv3550 and bell housing...

Simultaneous projects include testing/changing filters and O-rings on injectors so I can install the fuel rail, prepping the bronco for the new wiring harness, and setting up the fuel pump/returnless/in tank return to the aerotank fuel pump hanger.
 

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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Been making progress, not too many pics to share but I finished refurbing my injectors, mounted them to the rail/intake and installed most of the engine harness. Also replaced the seals in the NV3550, notched the case for the Advanced adapters plate, cleaned/painted the old bell housing, trimmed the Tuffy glove box for the AA harness fuse panel, and a few other little things.

I also installed the motor mounts and did a fit up test with my new headers, I'll have to grind off a bit of the mount on the driver side. After I do that I think I'll go ahead and install the headers, they hug the block pretty tight so I think I can stab the whole thing in without any issue, I'll put some moving blankets over the headers to protect them just in case.

I was reading the installation instructions for the Sanderson Headers (https://www.sandersonheaders.com/header-installation-and-upkeep.html) and it said:

"Special Instructions for New or Rebuilt Engines

Chrome, stainless and ceramic coated headers can be permanently damaged by installing them on untuned motors! Exhaust gas temperatures in fresh engines can easily exceed the limits of these materials, causing damage to the finish. For first time start-up, follow these recommended steps:

1. Install an old pair of headers or your stock exhaust manifolds without gaskets. Start the motor and adjust the timing, carburetor settings, and valves. Check for any vacuum leaks. Run the engine 10-20 minutes to burn out all traces of assembly lube.
2. Check for soot at the end of the tailpipe, caused by a too-rich fuel mixture. Correct this before you bolt on your new headers.
3. Let the motor cool completely, unbolt the old exhaust manifolds and follow the procedure above to install your new Sanderson Headers."

I can see how when you are tuning a carb this could be an issue, but for EFI, as long as nothing has changed from stock, I'd suspect the risk of damage/discoloration is pretty low...any thoughts from the experienced guys?
 

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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
I want to install the upper intake before I get the motor off the stand to mock up the rest of the drivetrain, and someone had posted a great pic on what all the little ports on the bottom of the intake were/went to and what to plug...I looked for a good hour last night and couldn't find it.

If anyone knows the pic and can point me to it or repost it here it would be greatly appreciated.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
This one?

2nd Pic > You might want to keep the preheats since you live on the East coast...

Doing nice work by the way... :)
 

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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Thanks 904, just found where you answered me the first time in the EFI mass buy thread, I knew I'd seen it before but that was quite a while ago. Also, a contributing pic from Broncoman with some other details where he marked up your photo.
 

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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Not any pictures but making decent progress, been working on it in the evenings after the baby goes to bed. His room is right over the garage, makes for slower progress when when you gotta be extra quiet.

-Sandblasted some odds and ends at work (during my lunch break!) and got those at least in primer, about half of it painted complete
-Got the upper intake plugged and installed. Two of the vacuum ports lines didn't want to come out at first, but they finally gave in.
-Started taking apart the T-case from the trans adapter, that was a pain...50 years of being stuck together and I couldn't really use a hammer during baby sleeping hours... I ended up using a small scissor jack to break the gasket apart and almost lost half the rollers from the stub shaft down in the case.
-Got the snap ring and gear off the stub shaft, going to clean them up and reinstall them on the AA kit.
-The old rollers measured .3125", didn't seem to show a lot of wear, and all the gears looked pretty good, bearings were smooth and didn't have excessive play, somebody must've been easy on this thing!
-Taped over the opening and started scraping all the old gunk off the tcase.

Two questions for you experienced guys -
- While the tcase is out, I should probably replace the seals on the yokes, how big of a pain is this and does it require and special tools? From what I've read it should be a piece of cake. Also saw something about putting RTV under the nut to seal the splines.
- There are only 13 rollers for the stub shaft right? Wildhorses kit said it had 13 in it but the description on the site said 14. Mine were in good shape so I'll reuse them, just want to make sure I'm not missing one.

Also - anybody have a measurement they can share as far as where to cut the hole in the tunnel for the NV3550 shifter? I should've measured this before I pulled everything but failed to. I know they'll all be a little different but hopefully that'll get me close.
 

Casey835

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
759
Maup's build - mostly mechanical/electrical stuff, some bodywork.

13 rollers
I'm doing a full fresh up on t case with new gaskets, etc. and I think the silicone under the nut helps. Actually last time I used o ring and silicone and it seemed to be the most dry spot on the t case. There's a good thread on here for sealing the d20. My cover leaks bad, I'm thinking bout trying to make a new one. It's beveled around each hole and I've tried to flatten it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Thanks for confirming that Casey. I decided to order a new seal/gasket kit for the whole thing, that way if or when it starts leaking from somewhere else I won't have to wait on parts again.

Since I was waiting on parts I decided to work on the job I had been putting off, the 1" body lift. Started working on removing the body bolts Sunday around 5:30p and finished just as it was getting dark. The 4 bolts on the rear came out much easier than the front, 3 broke off and one came out clean. The 4 in the front had to be cut out, at least with the wheel off there was room to get at both of them.

Hoping to find time to install the new bushings/bolts a couple evenings this week.

Because of the body lift I need to extend the clutch rod, so I ordered clevis ends similar to the WH extreme clutch rod (http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFFSET-CLEV...Hot-Rod-Rat-Rod-Go-Cart-Linkage-/231035572240, $8/ea with free shipping), had a spare piece of 4140 7/16" rod that I'll cut and turn down to accept a 3/8-24 thread to mate up to the clevis ends. I measured the old one and made a rough solidworks model to make sure I cut and thread the new rod with enough adjustment. This model shown has 4" total adjustment which is way to much but I'd rather have more than not enough.
 

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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Been working on this pretty steadily...got a question that I'm quite honestly a little confused about now.

I got seals for the transfer case. The first time I got the seal pn's from O'riellys, both seals were wrong OD's. I gave them a shot, won't use them again. I then found a thread (http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264722&highlight=450185) on here where Viperwolf gave seal numbers, the timken 450185 appears to be right, I haven't installed it yet, but the other seal, the CR18676, which I have an SKF18676 has too large of an OD. After some googling, they cross the same...same OD measurements so its not an SKF vs CR thing.

Is there a D20 with a smaller OD input shaft seal? I have a '67. Any input is much appreciated.
 
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maup

maup

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
127
Took a break for a few weeks when I realized it wouldn't get put back together to make it to the beach, plus there were several little house projects that needed to be taken care of.

Progress since the last post:
- Got the tcase yoke seals changed, still need to change the seals on the range selector though
- Installed clutch/AA NV3550 adapter kit on engine, transmission is bolted to the bell housing. After I finish the 2 last seals on the tcase I'll mock up the D20 to the NV
- Engine bay is painted final body color. Hole was cut in the firewall for PCM mounting with a box I got out of an Escape.
- Heater core/fan assembly removed. Plan to take it fully apart and sandblast/paint everything, and replace the heater core. Any other recommended updates to this while its out?
- Dash is painted body color. Since it'll probably be years (realistically) until the rest of the bodywork is done, I'm thinking about plasti-dipping the dash so it doesn't look funny, and the paint will be protected somewhat. Then when I get around to finishing the bodywork I can just peel the plasti-dip off.
- Fuel tank is ready to install. The new fuel pump is in, the fuel sender was kind of a pita because it had to be taken all the way apart, partially put in the tank, then reassembled. I ordered -6an stainless hose off amazon, fuel filter, and ford fuel rail adapter. Also adapted a rollover valve in the breather line for a charcoal canister.
- 1in body lift installed. This was a royal pain as well.
- Cleaned and painted various components, brackets, brake booster, etc.
- Finished extended/beefed up clutch rod

Next on the to-do list:
- Find time to work on Bronco
- Finish tcase seals, mock up to rest of drivetrain
- Install AAW harness, tail lights, HID's, new SS battery tray
- Install fuel tank, mount fuel filter
- Cut hole in tunnel for NV shifter. I may do this after I stab the engine/trans into the Bronco so I can be certain the hole is in the right place.
- Stab engine/trans into body. Finish wiring EFIguy's reworked chassis harness into the AAW harness.
- Install tcase, hopefully I don't run into the AA crossmember issue I've read about.
- Reinstall driveshafts. The front shaft is too short, I'll either have to get it lengthened or just buy a new one, leaning towards new...
 

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fordguy

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 23, 2005
Messages
5,497
Maup, where did you get the custom cover for the upper intake?
 
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