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Hate to do this, dash install for dummies, me.

73azbronco

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EDIT: Lessons learned to date:

You can't install a dash if there is a rollcage bar in the way as in full cage family cages

Install as much as you can on the dash before install.

Install the aftermarket glovebox while dash is on a table if you are rewiring.

Do not install fragile heater control cable going to heater valve on heater hose until ready to install, thats a very fragile piece I bent flipping the dash over and over.

Install defrost duct, and defrost hoses while dash on table.

.






It's been 10 years of having a dash off in one form or the other and finally getting to dash install, which is the question.

I have the red bronco body/interior book. Which does nothing to help answer: what is the order?

I've searched and found nothing on install order, I know if I just went out and started it would probably go together but, it's all powdercoated new and "im afraid to hurt it making errors slapping this in. And it's heavy with everything already in it.

Heat core and everything related to pedals installed. Firewall gasket/heat pad installed.

Dash is built up, wired. Tuffy box already in dash cause well, can't get to it on the truck with heater core/roll cage in the way.

New windshield installed. Window folded forward.

PLan:
1. Install dash, bolts on sides, center bolt. Feed heater controls and such into position. Install heater ducts while balancing this with four hands.

2. Dash pad on top with screws.
3. Rubber gasket under window seem and fold window into position, screw window frame into dash with two side bolts and tie into roll cage at top.

What am I missing?
 
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Glass Pony

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While I am no expert, the way I did mine was put 1 bolt in each side of the "L" brackets on the bottom of the dash and let it lean back against the transfer case shifter (blue foam padding). That put it in a position where I could route the cables/wires through the firewall. Your front cage legs may interfere with leaning it back far enough.
 

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JAFO

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I hung my dash from wire as I got some things connected, vent ducts in place, etc. Then lifted into place and screwed it to the cowl. I had the dash pad already in place before securing to the cowl. I had nothing in the way at all (no seats, no top, etc) and it was still pretty difficult getting it in place and everything hooked up. I had laid blankets on the floor to help prevent scratches.

Dash16.jpg
 

Jaxgtc

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I basically installed everything that I could on the bench - Gauge cluster, radio, heater controls, glove box, speaker, dash pad, defrost vents, etc. I still had the steering column (minus the wheel and shifter), so I wrapped it with a towel and placed the dash over the column, supporting the opposite end with a box on the passenger floor board. That gave me the ability to get the dash close enough to connect the lights, wiper, ignition, fuse box, and other connections. Next I just lift a few inches into place and put the two long bolts to hold it - but not tighten. The bottom brackets were last, and after they were installed I tightened everything up. That little center screw is tough because the little clip that it screws into wants to move. A couple things to watch are that you need to run the wires from the left corner of the windshield down through the opening so they are not pinched. Also, consider grounding - the dash itself is actually a ground for many items, so insure that you have metal to metal contact. I scratched the back of the tabs on either end of the dash where the smaller screws go into the body (right behind the lower door seal).
I did not replace the dash screws on the backside behind the windshield, they just didn't seem necessary given the large screws on either end and the hanger in the center.
Hardest connections are the heater box. You may have to unbolt it to get access.
Overall, it is not a hard job, but one that is very satisfying. After all, you look at that dash every time you drive it. Do it right and it will be a source of pride. Good luck.
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Excellent help guys thanks. I was also considering threaded rod of about 2 foot in length to rest it up on while it slides into place.
 

jim3326

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I did not replace the dash screws on the backside behind the windshield, they just didn't seem necessary given the large screws on either end and the hanger in the center.

This!!! I made the mistake of putting them in and there have been times I wish I could loosen the dash for repairs. I spent a lot of time to get the top sealed and the LAST thing I want to do is do it over.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Mines all apart so putting them in seems a no brainer. However looking at it, the only real reason I can see for those 7 small screws is to eliminate any vibration of the dash against that front section.
 

jim3326

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If you think it may vibrate, put a strip of foam tape along the edge. But I would leave them out. You have to take a lot more bolts out to raise the top just to remove those 7 screws.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Looking at it again still at a loss why those small screws ever were needed. Maybe during build at factory?
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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OK, new issue didn't even cross my mind.

Family roll cage is installed, has been for two years, never thought it would be an issue except for glove box which of course I thought I fixed by installing the tuffy glove box which is offset. Fixed right?? Then for grins I tried screwing in the billet blue dash knobs/bolts, to long by about 1/8th inch, they hit the rollcage, which I can fix.

What I have not yet tried is jockeying that dash with all the stuff attached around a cage into position. BTW my using a foot of threaded rod is out, I only have 1 and 3/4 inch between mount of dash and rollcage bar.

Anyone have this issue? I am not gonna be happy having to unbolt 32 bolts and move the cage...

Install dash from bottom up maybe? What about already installed tuffy box with already installed heater box? INstall heater box after dash? Good thing I didn't do that yet.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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:-[:eek::(%):cry::mad:

FYI, it is impossible to install a dash with a family roll cage bar at the front. Unable to maneuver the dash in front of cage bars, and thats with nothing on a spare dash without tuffy box or anything, nor anything on firewall.

My rollcage needs to come out.

@#%*
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Roll cage out, I'll post up anything other than whats been noted above during install.

ONe question, has anyone mounted the painless panel on the bottom/back of the glove box vs side? Just not digging trying to see the fuses on the side, nothing will really be in the box other than reg/paperwork.
 
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Glass Pony

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Roll cage out, I'll post up anything other than whats been noted above during install.

ONe question, has anyone mounted the painless panel on the bottom/back of the glove box vs side? Just not digging trying to see the fuses on the side, nothing will really be in the box other than reg/paperwork.
On the side of the glove box hasn't been an issue for me. The fuse chart on the inside of the lid helps with locating fuses. I even have a Ipod docking station on the other side complicating things.
 

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duffymahoney

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While I am no expert, the way I did mine was put 1 bolt in each side of the "L" brackets on the bottom of the dash and let it lean back against the transfer case shifter (blue foam padding). That put it in a position where I could route the cables/wires through the firewall. Your front cage legs may interfere with leaning it back far enough.

Going to steal this idea!
 

JefeAZ

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Roll cage out, I'll post up anything other than whats been noted above during install.

ONe question, has anyone mounted the painless panel on the bottom/back of the glove box vs side? Just not digging trying to see the fuses on the side, nothing will really be in the box other than reg/paperwork.
Where are you located? We just took our cage out to remove the dash for paint/accessories later this year. Id love to come help so I can prep myself for our install. Had the cage out in about 20 mins

Last time I attempted this I couldn't fold the windshield down. I think the prior owner got paint happy and it dripped onto the hinge.
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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I'm all good now, thanks for offer, I have two big boys who knocked it out in 20 minutes including unbolting. I'm down South Scottsdale way if your ever in the hood. But I just realized somewhere in 10 years the defroster ducts disappeared, oh well, order off to WH for same.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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So you spoke with my wife then?:) Thats OK, I'm wondering how I ended up with two new in the box dash pads...... Maybe the ducts willed themselves into a dashpad?
 
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