Dan Wheeler's Rear 4-Link Thread

DanWheeler · Mar 17, 2017

So if v3 is calculating for 2wd and we drive in 4wd then v3 is incorrect, no? What am I missing?

JSmall · Mar 17, 2017

DanWheeler said:
So if v3 is calculating for 2wd and we drive in 4wd then v3 is incorrect, no? What am I missing?

I drive on the street in 2wd so I'm comparing apples to apples on the spreadsheets. v3 and v4 are the same if you put the front drive bias to 0. That's all I was getting at. I drive mine in 2wd on the street more than I do 4wd so how it handles on the street is important to me.

JSmall · Mar 17, 2017

Something I never got answered when I was doing all the research...lets say a guy wanted 60% AS for the type of offroading he was going to be doing. 60% in 4wd would be 120% in 2wd (? is that close) so that would mean you would have weird handling characteristics on the street?

I was curious about that as well so I am curious what comes of this from the experts.

DanWheeler · Mar 17, 2017

JSmall said:
I drive on the street in 2wd so I'm comparing apples to apples on the spreadsheets. v3 and v4 are the same if you put the front drive bias to 0. That's all I was getting at. I drive mine in 2wd on the street more than I do 4wd so how it handles on the street is important to me.

yup - OK, I'm with you there. Same for me, I want good street manners, no wheelies!

nvrstuk · Mar 17, 2017

Yeah, so all this takes us to ....where??

DanWheeler · Mar 17, 2017

nvrstuk said:
Yeah, so all this takes us to ....where??

lol, exactly. I'd say the big points are:

- Longer flatter links are still best if possible.
- None of us have as much antisquat as we thought we did when in 4wd.
- Put it where it fits.

nvrstuk · Mar 17, 2017

Yeah, Bronco's are notorius for working thru the calculator over and over again and ending up with ...."put it where it fits"...

DanWheeler · Mar 17, 2017

Yup! I'm out in the shop right now tacking in the brackets for the short option. 27" upper and 38" lowers. It's gonna work... it has to!

DanWheeler · Mar 18, 2017

Yeller said:
If you have the space under the floor raise the upper and lower mounts at the axle. You'll get a noticeable difference. If the lowers get above centerline dont worry it's all good. It will improve either design and either you will be happy with.

do you mean like this?

y3mGYO5OvMZYnWWqh4P3gqMDNNCJtqQFfdMCIIYb1BqTnwFIiyba33AJ4qBaWfuYLVmrx9Rmhgpvn_Mr2zDsvVlY7EgvrUEkv2UDsQ2EDgYmbUDTz276OiPyc_WyAzyaxJhkSkI00M8AMAZzXQcOzn3eLeFbRv7bNPJbOtkaIop7oM

I can't find any pictures of rigs with the lower axle mounts above the centerline which makes me wary but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

The numbers do come out pretty good if I do that. It moves me into roll understeer territory.

nvrstuk · Mar 18, 2017

THat looks like my CAD drawings!! ha

Yeah, like that. My lowers are very flat...

DanWheeler · Mar 18, 2017

nvrstuk said:
THat looks like my CAD drawings!! ha

Yeah, like that. My lowers are very flat...

you use Sharpie CAD too?!

Awright, I'm going to rotate those lower mounts up on the axle and build up the top of the truss to raise the uppers. I can get the uppers flat but the lowers ain't happenin on this go around. Maybe a V2 when I do a new belly pan I can lower the frame mounts.

DanWheeler · Mar 18, 2017

well I've got a tacked-in-two-link now. Got the lowers re-mounted and cut the tubes, tacked in the inserts, etc. Links are not flat but they'll do.

Yeller · Mar 18, 2017

Sorry been playing in the land of giant red rocks

Yes exactly like that. I've been building them that way for years. On my buggy they are 5" above and perfectly flat. It works have faith

And your drawings are a step up, I usually have to take a picture of the chalk on the floor......lol. What ever it takes

nvrstuk · Mar 19, 2017

Looking good Dan!

DanWheeler · Mar 20, 2017

Got some of the floor removed tonight, cut the crossmember, lots of measuring and head scratching. Started bending some shock hoops, I think I'm going to mount those right inside the wheel wells. I'd like to run a 16" or more coilover in the rear to match the front.

JSmall · Mar 20, 2017

Looking really good! I really wish I would have removed my rear cross member so I could get to 100". It would have required a custom fuel tank so I decided against it at the time. I'll stick to 98" until I'm ready to make some changes in the rear.

DanWheeler · Mar 21, 2017

Finished up the shock hoops tonight. On a scale of 1 to perfectly symmetrical... well, at least they look good in the picture haha. The JD2 Model 32 is my new favorite tool. Shouldn't have gone that long without a bender. A little more practice and I think I'll have it down pretty good.

sprdv1 · Mar 21, 2017

Nice work Dan, keep it up.. Way beyond my small skills.... lol

302BRONC · Mar 21, 2017

You're still planning on keeping the ORI's inside of wheel wells, correct? If so, check your articulation prior to locating the shocks, especially if you're going with a long ORI like 16" or so.

I had to move the tops of mine inboard so the tire wouldn't get into the top of the shock - even with 14" ORIs.

However, Bailie was somehow able to make it all fit on kyle.malone's rig on post 42: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239359

Regardless, keep it up!

JSmall · Mar 21, 2017

302BRONC said:
You're still planning on keeping the ORI's inside of wheel wells, correct? If so, check your articulation prior to locating the shocks, especially if you're going with a long ORI like 16" or so.

I had to move the tops of mine inboard so the tire wouldn't get into the top of the shock - even with 14" ORIs.

However, Bailie was somehow able to make it all fit on kyle.malone's rig on post 42: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239359

Regardless, keep it up!

I had the same issue. I moved mine inboard to get the clearance I needed. I figured that was the difference between the axle width of 1/2 and 1 ton axles.

Dan Wheeler's Rear 4-Link Thread

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