ATLAS install

anythingford · Jun 9, 2018

I figured I would do a thread on the work im doing to dads crawler. He ordered a 4.3 atlas. The plan is to flat clock it, with no body lift. its a rough bronco so we didnt mind cutting away. It has been a fun project up to this point. the hardest part is finding time to work on it! His bronco is a 73, fuel injected 302, C4, 35 spline 9 inch with nodular center, 8.8 disc on the rear, Built dana 44 (hoping to put a 60 in it soon) 5.13 gears, detroit lockers in both ends, hydro assist, 37 inch creepy crawlers on trail ready beadlocks, and a 8274 winch. this was my old crawler. he bought it from me a few years back, glad it stayed in the family.

anythingford · Jun 9, 2018

I had to remove the old radius arm mounts, I went with RUFFSTUFF brackets to clear the inside frame rail for clearance. I didnt take a pictue, but we slotted the driver side motor mount so we could slide the center line of the drive line toward the passenger frame rail.

anythingford · Jun 9, 2018

This is the new console . . . i mean transfercase. I had to cut the seat bars to clear. I have a plan for that. maybe it will work.

He ordered the atlas with 1350 yokes per my request (in this picture) and 1350 yokes for the axles, after taking some driveline angles i was concerned about the max angle of a 1350. So we have 1410 yokes ordered for the atlas. I always wondered why my crawler was 1410s at the atlas and 1350s at the axles and not 1350s on both ends. I guess that guy that drives a yellow bronco knew what he was doing

.

anythingford · Jun 9, 2018

this is the crossmember. .188 wall 1x2 tubing, 1/4 frame mount plates and 1/8 plate to box it in.

CA Monkey · Jun 9, 2018

looks great. I didn't clock mine flat and it would have been nice but It looked like a ton of work. Thanks for sharing so I can see what goes into doing it.

sprdv1 · Jun 9, 2018

Lucky Duck... Will keep an eye on this thread.. would love to have an Atlas one day

Apogee · Jun 10, 2018

Nice work...I need to get working on my ATLAS install, so it's always nice to see how others are doing it. My rig has a 2" body lift, so I don't think I'd have the same degree of floor interference. Are you running a HPD44 or low-pinion? I'm assuming low since you mentioned drive shaft angle issues with the front shaft.

Yeller · Jun 10, 2018

Lookin good!
Give me a shout if you need anything.

SC74 · Jun 11, 2018

Great progress! I look forward to seeing this rig back on the trail with your dad behind the wheel.

Apogee, Even with a HP Dana 60 and stretched 6" forward, I have drive shaft angle problems. I too am switching to a 1410 yoke to see if that helps. It's amazing how high that yoke gets when you spin it up flat like that.

I have 1" of BL and did not have to trim near as much floor, but I'm not quite as flat as John's build. I'm one click down, probably 1" below the frame.

anythingford · Jun 11, 2018

Apogee said:
Nice work...I need to get working on my ATLAS install, so it's always nice to see how others are doing it. My rig has a 2" body lift, so I don't think I'd have the same degree of floor interference. Are you running a HPD44 or low-pinion? I'm assuming low since you mentioned drive shaft angle issues with the front shaft.

thanks! It is a low pinion 44. I believe we can make it work, but i am hoping the 60 deal works out.

anythingford · Jun 11, 2018

Yeller said:
Lookin good!
Give me a shout if you need anything.

Thanks! I'll probably be calling.

anythingford · Jun 11, 2018

SC74 said:
Great progress! I look forward to seeing this rig back on the trail with your dad behind the wheel.

Apogee, Even with a HP Dana 60 and stretched 6" forward, I have drive shaft angle problems. I too am switching to a 1410 yoke to see if that helps. It's amazing how high that yoke gets when you spin it up flat like that.

I have 1" of BL and did not have to trim near as much floor, but I'm not quite as flat as John's build. I'm one click down, probably 1" below the frame.

Yesir hopefully there will be a trail test soon!

Yeller · Jun 11, 2018

Driveshaft angles get to be an issue really quick. Even the way mine is built I have angle issues. So far my 1310/1330 hybrid CV is living just fine. I really should check to see if a 1350 will fit at the pinion now that I've changed motors, originally when I built it a 1350 was closer to the starter than I was comfortable with, the LS has a little more clearance in that spot. I have found that 1310's live fine in the front but not so well in the rear. For simple anvil strength the 1410 at the case and 1350 at the pinion is all but indestructible, you will twist off the pinion before anything else.

anythingford · Jun 11, 2018

Yeller said:
Driveshaft angles get to be an issue really quick. Even the way mine is built I have angle issues. So far my 1310/1330 hybrid CV is living just fine. I really should check to see if a 1350 will fit at the pinion now that I've changed motors, originally when I built it a 1350 was closer to the starter than I was comfortable with, the LS has a little more clearance in that spot. I have found that 1310's live fine in the front but not so well in the rear. For simple anvil strength the 1410 at the case and 1350 at the pinion is all but indestructible, you will twist off the pinion before anything else.

Wow, I never would have thought your rig had a 1310/1330CV in the front. With the axle hanging at full droop I’m right at the max of a 1410. I know they get weaker as angle increases but like you said a 1410 is beef. I’m hoping it works.

Yeller · Jun 11, 2018

don't be afraid to massage the yolks some for clearance, a 1410 will not have any issues living at that angle. When it is at that angle there is not much load unless it is binding, then things get interesting, but the joint will not be what fails.

Back in the days when we first started running 40"+ tires I got to witness some really spectacular failures. Like anti wrap bars failing, pointing the pinion straight up and snapping the pinions off on a D60, the 1410 yolk and ujoint would be good to go on a new driveshaft and new ring & pinion

anythingford · Jun 11, 2018

I was thinking i might have a few hours spent with a carbide burr and a yoke in my future!

Yeller · Jun 11, 2018

Bet it's less than you think.

And for those following along and wondering... A 1350 joint is stronger than the pinion shaft on 9", D44 and D60 unless you upgrade to a 35 spline pinion which limits gear options and adds BIG dollars to the build, most will never thrash hard enough to even have that be a concern. I have only had it happen with airborne antics combined with power creating impressive shock loads. 9 out of 10 ujoint failures not caused by corrosion are from binding, even light binding creates tiny fractures in the trunions of the joint and begins the failure process. Enough semi on topic driveling......lol

sprdv1 · Jun 12, 2018

Good Info Steve...

KyleQ · Jun 12, 2018

Nice job getting it flat - how much did you slot the motor tower to get it to fit? I thought about that but didn't realize you could get the case flat without cutting a huge chunk of frame out of the way...

I went 1410 without a CV front and rear and have had great sucess with it, but I had to take a carbide burr to the front drive shaft to get enough travel out of it WITH my case clocked "traditionally" I'm not sure how much travel you will be able to get with that case flat - maybe time to look at some Northern Drivetrain 1480 drive shaft kits.

SC74 · Jun 12, 2018

I didn't get mine quite as flat, maybe an inch below the frame rail. I also used a carbide burr on the motor mounts to give them room to slide.

ATLAS install

Jr. Member

Attachments

Jr. Member

Attachments

Jr. Member

Attachments

Jr. Member

Attachments

Jr. Member

REBEL

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Jr. Member

Jr. Member

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

REBEL

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Attachments

Similar threads