Making a high pinion 44

Justafordguy · Sep 18, 2018

Seventee said:
I was in the same boat until I picked up a 1.5x cheater lens for my helmet. I wish I would've discovered those several years ago. Now I can see the bead again and don't have to weld by feel. %)

Man I wish I had known that this existed, I've got to get one for my helmet ASAP.

Apogee · Sep 18, 2018

Justafordguy said:
Man I wish I had known that this existed, I've got to get one for my helmet ASAP.

On the welding hood topic, I recently got a Miller Inifity series hood and love the big view screen and their "Clearsight" technology actually seems to work as advertised...it really is better than the old Huntsman auto-darkening hood I'd been borrowing from my brother. Nothing against the Huntsman, it's a good hood as well for 10-year old technology, but the visibility and the new headgear on the Miller is much better IMHO. I actually like the headgear so much, I might get it for my old non auto-darkening hood and possibly faceshield and retrofit them there as well.

bax · Sep 18, 2018

Apogee said:
Bax, what C-bushings did you use with the radius arms? Stock, 2, 4, 7 degree?

I used a 4 degree bushing set. I figured if I needed to I could adjust either way.

Apogee · Sep 18, 2018

bax said:
I used a 4 degree bushing set. I figured if I needed to I could adjust either way.

Thanks...that was my plan as well, although you could technically do the same with 2 degree bushings and get a +/-2 degree adjustment, but it may involve rubber 0 degree bushings. Does anyone make 0 degree poly bushings?

Your HP D44 is looking good. I can only hope mine goes so smoothly (minus the 90 degree weather).

bmc69 · Sep 18, 2018

Seventee said:
I was in the same boat until I picked up a 1.5x cheater lens for my helmet. I wish I would've discovered those several years ago. Now I can see the bead again and don't have to weld by feel. %)

I use the cheater insert and my 2.0 glasses. Especially if doing small TIG work.

bax · Sep 18, 2018

I will have to go to the welding store and see if they have them. I was there today getting my helmet fixed.

Yeller · Sep 18, 2018

bax said:
I will have to go to the welding store and see if they have them. I was there today getting my helmet fixed.

They are priceless and cheap, less than $5. The biggest problem you'll have is it fogging up in the heat and humidity. Let me know if they don't have any, I'll send you one, I have at least one of all available powers from 1.5-3 that I use depending on how detailed I need to see.

bax · Sep 19, 2018

Well Its welded up. Not the best welds but they will work. I don't think they will be going anywhere. Or I don't think they will kill me.

Next I have to save up for the gear set, the axles, the knuckles, the locker, the brakes and whatever else comes along.

mrdrnac · Sep 20, 2018

Hey Bax, what are you going to use for Bump stop brackets?

bax · Sep 20, 2018

mrdrnac said:
Hey Bax, what are you going to use for Bump stop brackets?

Not sure? Perhaps my exhaust or oil pan. I don't think it will hit, but I could cycle the front end after I get the new axle put back in place. Adding a bump stop should not be too hard.

Ethansdad73 · Sep 21, 2018

This on the blue one right... 3inch lift you may be ok it may self clearance your oil pan a tou h

bax said:
Not sure? Perhaps my exhaust or oil pan. I don't think it will hit, but I could cycle the front end after I get the new axle put back in place. Adding a bump stop should not be too hard.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

bmc69 · Sep 21, 2018

bax said:
Well Its welded up. Not the best welds but they will work. I don't think they will be going anywhere. Or I don't think they will kill me.

Those from that ESAB I sent you?..they look like they could have used a bit higher setting.

bax · Sep 21, 2018

No their from my Miller machine. I should of got thicker wire I think. "used .35 wire" When I turn the heat all the way up I was burning the wire back into the tip. Wire feed at full blast. I backed off the heat some and went slower. I agree they are a little "cold" looking. I am not worried about the wedges but I keep looking at the C's and wondering if I should break out the grinder and go at it again.

bax · Sep 21, 2018

Ethansdad73 said:
This on the blue one right... 3inch lift you may be ok it may self clearance your oil pan a tou h

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This is on the little blue one. If you have 2 broncos, they should be different colors.

Ethansdad73 · Sep 26, 2018

bax said:
This is on the little blue one. If you have 2 broncos, they should be different colors.

Sure rub it in...lol

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

mrdrnac · Feb 16, 2019

Shout Out to Bax

Shout out to Bax for doing this how to thread on shortening a High Pinion Dana 44. His detailed account gave me the courage to do my own. Just finished up setting all the angles etc. very happy with how it came out! Should drive 1000% better now (with positive caster) and have a much stronger front axle than the Dana 30 to boot.

bax · Feb 16, 2019

That looks good.

DirtDonk · Feb 18, 2019

Just saw your previous question Apogee.

Apogee said:
...although you could technically do the same with 2 degree bushings and get a +/-2 degree adjustment, but it may involve rubber 0 degree bushings.

Using the minimal 2 degree bushings is the way to go for a standard low-pinion 44 at least. Not sure if the high pinion would benefit though or not, since they're so different. Perhaps the 4's that bax used in this case were the best choice for the pinion angle. He can answer that.

Using rubber C-bushings is not recommended at all except for a street rig, or very lightly wheeled rig. If you want wheel travel, control or expect to be pushing your rig fairly hard, the rubber bushings can spit out the sides pretty easily.
Poly versions, with their wide side lips, were developed pretty soon after the introduction and their use in desert racing. I've seen reports of rubber bushings disappearing after only a few hard miles in the desert.

Apogee said:
Does anyone make 0 degree poly bushings?

Not to my knowledge. Not much demand yet I don't think, and not helpful for 99% of users.
Now, a rubber bushing with anti-spitout technology, and maybe even a little offset, would be a cool thing!%)

Paul

mrdrnac · Feb 18, 2019

On my High Pinon set up, I first cut off the C and the wedges on one side, shortened the axle, and left the original wedge position on the other side then mocked up the axle in the Bronco. I used 2 Degree Bushings with one of the bushings upside down, which gave me the effect of having 0 degree bushings.

Then used the adjustment on my BC Bronco adjustable arms to bring me a straight on pinon shot to the transfer case (less than 1 degree). By using the BC radius arms to add caster rather than the bushings, it gave me the added benefit of reducing the usual forward angle of the coil cups so they sit much more level. (See the first photo) This keeps the coils from bowing as they usually do with 5 1/2" of lift. I then turned and welded both C's to end up with a final caster angle of 6.8 degrees.

On a side note, I had the C's on and off several times throughout the set up process and used both Daystar and Prothane C Bushings. I personally found the Daystar bushings to fit much better and be easier to work with than the Prothane ones. The Daystar Durometer is slightly less so they are little more flexible and they also seemed to fit better. And did not squeeze out of the C caps as much. (see second photo) Bad news is that Daystar has discontinued making the 2 degree C Bushings. Found a set on Ebay.

EB70 · Feb 18, 2019

So this pic is with 7 degrees? I haven't had an alignment on my Bronco but have done the tape measure stuff etc. but it still is a rut finding fool. I know I don't have good science behind me, but I know mine have the 7 degree bushings but I don't have caster like that.

Hmm...when I get some time I am going to tear into mine.

Let us know how it drives. Honestly if I spent the time to fix mine, I would drive it a lot more.

Making a high pinion 44

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