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Old 07/11/18, 02:56 PM   #361
bronconut73
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How did you do that?

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Originally Posted by tirewater View Post
The driveshaft still turns in neutral. Instead of being powered by the transfer case it's powered by the wheels.
/\/\That/\/\

I chased a vibration for years. Ended up being the CV joint in my drive shaft. I replaced the u-joints but it didn't help. It was the CV itself (ball & spring?).

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff Long Arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, 3G, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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Old 07/11/18, 03:51 PM   #362
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Didn't you spend last years tax returns on that thing?

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Thank you!

Thing is, it happens in neutral as well. So thatís why Iím led to believe is either torque Converter or harmonic balancer. But thatís a separate issue ha!
If there is a vibration in neutral that is more than likely a dampner or the wrong one was installed. Thas the problem with buying a used motor you don't know what your getting without taking it apart. West coast broncos should have fixed the original cooling problem but nobody in theit right mind who has any vehicle knowledge would go from a 351 to a 302. Not your fault if you are not a mechanic but they should have know better and told you a 351 is better if it's already in the bronco. Thanks for telling the whole story, sorry this has been happening to you. I have been hosed before on a 45k dollar sand rail that I had built and am still paying for it biggest pile of crap I ever owned. If this shop can't help you I'll come down and help you.
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Old 07/11/18, 04:05 PM   #363
nirvana
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It'll buff out

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Originally Posted by mduenas View Post
Thank you!

Thing is, it happens in neutral as well. So thatís why Iím led to believe is either torque Converter or harmonic balancer. But thatís a separate issue ha!
or...the flywheel. most likely not the harmonic balancer or torque converter.

I am diagnosing a hot running 351 myself...what a pain.

But I will never quit!!! Love the ol' Bronco! Best of luck!
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Old 07/11/18, 04:08 PM   #364
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Didn't you spend last years tax returns on that thing?

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Originally Posted by 57baja View Post
If there is a vibration in neutral that is more than likely a dampner or the wrong one was installed. Thas the problem with buying a used motor you don't know what your getting without taking it apart. West coast broncos should have fixed the original cooling problem but nobody in theit right mind who has any vehicle knowledge would go from a 351 to a 302. Not your fault if you are not a mechanic but they should have know better and told you a 351 is better if it's already in the bronco. Thanks for telling the whole story, sorry this has been happening to you. I have been hosed before on a 45k dollar sand rail that I had built and am still paying for it biggest pile of crap I ever owned. If this shop can't help you I'll come down and help you.
I should have worded that a little better, put another 351 in since that's what you had because yours had thin cylinder walls. Using all parts off your motor that were good.
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Old 07/11/18, 04:18 PM   #365
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Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos won’t answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.
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Old 07/11/18, 04:29 PM   #366
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Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos wonít answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.
Don't sell your bronco. If you are able pay the shop for work done and tow your brono home. Don't sell it is not a big dollar item to fix. I will come help you. My name is Joe give me a call 831 902 9110
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Old 07/11/18, 04:36 PM   #367
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Didn't you spend last years tax returns on that thing?

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Originally Posted by 57baja View Post
Don't sell your bronco. If you are able pay the shop for work done and tow your brono home. Don't sell it is not a big dollar item to fix. I will come help you. My name is Joe give me a call 831 902 9110
I have a ton of motor parts and a 302 from an 84 mustang I'll give you for next to nothing and it ran fine when removed from the car. Don't get discouraged I am serious I'll help you out even though your in socal
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Old 07/11/18, 04:39 PM   #368
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Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos wonít answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.
That sucks. A cracked head is not that bad. I went through dealing with one on my W build. Find a yard and pull a set of heads or go aluminum aftermarket. I went with P heads. New springs and lapped the valves. Had the machine shop resurface and check for cracks. Slapped them on and all was good.

I feel your frustrations but selling is not the answer IMO.

Tim

74 Half Cab 351w 3 speed, SN95 Mustang EFI, 2 1/2 SL, 1 inch BL, 33's, 4.09/4.11's P/S (Delphi box), All Ford disc conversion, Factory bench seat
Coming Soon, Ford ZF or NV3550 and grafted rear quarters
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Old 07/11/18, 05:06 PM   #369
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Find out exactly what is damaged and go from there, replacing a head isn't that bad if that's what it is.
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Old 07/11/18, 05:44 PM   #370
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Find out exactly what is damaged and go from there, replacing a head isn't that bad if that's what it is.
To find out 100% what it is, involves a lot of labor, I had to take the truck. It drives, I just canít stop at a light or in traffic really. They did a vacuum test, and the needle would find a happy place, be constant, and then it would shake and not go constant again. So to pull it all apart and find the vacuum leak, would be very cost heavy. So to their conclusion, it is a cracked head, or stuck valve or bad valve, and the engine at that point to get going the same, is about the cost of a new crate motor.
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Old 07/11/18, 06:48 PM   #371
nirvana
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There are some seriously Great people here!!!

Take Baja up on his offer, It would not take but a few hours to pull the heads and replace them. especially since it has recently been apart. Hang in there!
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Old 07/11/18, 07:16 PM   #372
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Could the vibration not be the wrong balancer?? That would happen in neutral.

I would work with Joe.

If you need them I have a good set of P heads but shipping to the west coast would not be very cheap.


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Old 07/11/18, 07:52 PM   #373
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I called joe, we spoke for over an hour. He is 100% willing to come help! I’m so greatful for the community. Thank you!!
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Old 07/11/18, 09:05 PM   #374
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... Yes I too say Take Joe up on his offer.Don't sell a good Bronco body .
Even do an event . Let Joe come one weekend & get it apart. In SO.Cal there are so many members. Then choose a weekend after it's apart to fix. Let the other So. Cal members know .. Whats wrong with it you'll be surprised at how many will show up just for a get together. & They'll all bring tools & extra parts ..Years ago this was a rather popular thing to do.Usually about 10 members would show up.
.... You'll be surprised at how the guys will come to your rescue . & Most will be good techs. With great tools.
....... Forward planning will surprise you at what gets done.
................It won't cost to try before selling out.

............R. I. P. H. D. May 2nd 1999
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Old 07/12/18, 01:07 AM   #375
73azbronco
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glad to hear you are getting closer, do not sell it. ever.

get another shop to repair and write you a note saying what was wrong with it.

Take note to WCB and ask why they sold you an engine that was "good" with no problems but really had xyz issues. Then file a BBB complaint, and mention small claims court.

73 Explorer , 347stroker, NV4500 D20, Quadrajet spreadbore with manual altitude compensation, 4.1 ARB, Moser CTM Currie, 78 FSB disks, 76 Tbird calipers. 3.5 WH suspension lift, 2" Body lift for NV clearance.

Build here:http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...69#post1759569
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