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Build Thread-COYOTE

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Nickm1024cobra

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
362
Loc.
Chicago Burbs
I don't think i ever posted finished pictures of the build. Not perfect but a real nice truck. Hope you guys like it. Im building another one. You can follow me on instagram if you are on the @93cobrayote

Cowl cover turned out nice. Probably my favorite item.
 

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Jamie Chriss

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
576
Torque Converter Question.

2017 Coyote
2015 6R80

I am running the 6R80 4x4 transmission. I need to replace the torque converter that came with the trans due to excessive damage.

Any recommendations


The torque converter that came with the transmission is ECXRA, not sure it is even from the same truck or not.
 

DCbus

Newbie
Joined
Aug 19, 2018
Messages
15
Nickm1024cobra, Nice build. I see you used a water pump pully KRC set-up for your power steering set-up, and kept the alternator in the same spot. Any issues with running the lines down to the steering gear box? Have any pics or tips about using this set-up? I have a '16 F150 Coyote (so I will probably need to swap my timing cover for a earlier mustang version). $ is a good bit cheaper than the other options, but curious what down-sides you found to using it.
 

Meoshi18

New Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Messages
1
Trying to consider a Coyote swap for my 72, but wondering if anyone has chosen to keep the Ford F150 Transfer Case if the potential donor drivetrain includes it, instead of keeping the original Transfer Case? My thought is because I would likely need to rebuild or refresh my original one anyway? Pros or Cons of this idea? I actually believe based on the F150 Technical Information for the Axle ratios versus the Transmission and Transfer Case.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Hey Meoshi, welcome to classicbroncos!
Wonder what happened to Nick? Hasn't been on the site in awhile. Hope he's just out driving it!

I can't say from experience, but I'd say that like most modern transfer cases, it's too wide to fit between the frame rails of an EB. Nothing says that it can't be overcome of course, but most do not relish the idea of notching, or re-routing a frame rail for a new gearbox!

The new stuff is usually nicer, quieter and has lower gearing. All good attributes. But they're also very big.
Probably why we see so many expensive Atlas Transfer Cases going in, instead of easy to find factory stuff.

As I said, that's just conjecture based on nothing but previous discussions about other transfer cases.

Good luck.

DCbus and Jamie, you two get your stuff figured out yet?

Paul
 

Jamie Chriss

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
576
Still at it Paul, I think I have most of the basics done. As for the question above I think the transfer case is too big. There is so much involved in the transformation between stock and Coyote. I started from basic scratch so I was replacing many parts anyway, but there is allot going on that no one wants to share.
 

stryder94

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
56
I've seen a 2009 F-150 transfer case and it seems to fit. The bronco I saw it in had a custom frame so maybe that's why it fit.
 

ngsd

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2019
Messages
2,531
The ones I have seen were in a Krawlwrs edge frame also. I think they are a couple inches wider and will accommodate it.
 

MidwestTexan

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Messages
92
Yes, the F-150 TC is too big unfortunately. As stated above, KE makes a frame that is a few inches wider to accommodate for that.

I rebuilt my D20 and put the WH high output shaft on it with no problems... I know Van does/did the same on many of their builds and he hasn't had any issues when we last talked that I'm aware of.
 

Halfwheeler

Newbie
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
3
MidW-Tex are you certain the Xfer won't fit? I have a salvage 2014 F-150 pull-out sitting on the floor of my garage. My tape measure says it will be close but might fight between the stock frame rails (measured from centerline by eye xfer - so very uncertain ;) ) . The real issue I see with using stock F-150 Xfer, is it is much longer unit (like 4-6" longer) - and will change the drive shaft angles - possibly too steep in the rear, especially with a suspension lift. Also I haven't seen an off the shelf way to support it by crossmember - might have to have something fab'd. I'm going to try to see if it will fit , before giving up on it - Or MidWest you can save me some time!

NickM, what steering column did you end up going with?

I have an Ididit ready to go, but see BC & others sell a coyote specific unit that has been shortened to clear the width/heads. Can anyone advise on this?
 

DCbus

Newbie
Joined
Aug 19, 2018
Messages
15
Hey Meoshi, welcome to classicbroncos!
Wonder what happened to Nick? Hasn't been on the site in awhile. Hope he's just out driving it!

I can't say from experience, but I'd say that like most modern transfer cases, it's too wide to fit between the frame rails of an EB. Nothing says that it can't be overcome of course, but most do not relish the idea of notching, or re-routing a frame rail for a new gearbox!

The new stuff is usually nicer, quieter and has lower gearing. All good attributes. But they're also very big.
Probably why we see so many expensive Atlas Transfer Cases going in, instead of easy to find factory stuff.

As I said, that's just conjecture based on nothing but previous discussions about other transfer cases.

Good luck.

DCbus and Jamie, you two get your stuff figured out yet?

Paul
Figured out my Gen2 F150 coyote swap power steering set-up. Posting info about how here in case anyone else is looking to do something similar and wants the part#s. I used the KRC-66302125 pump kit, which runs a new pulley from the water pump to the power steering pump. It lists around $700-$800. You have to delete the serpentine tensioner on the right side of the timing cover. Then, I used a stretch belt (Gates K040338SF) to run the factory AC. And, I replaced the serpentine belt with a shorter one (Gates K060465) to run the water pump and factory alternator. This works bolted up to the Gen2 F150 timing cover with OEM accessories. I also notched the frame a little near the alternator and trimmed the frame support bracket near the AC just to give me a little more room.

49478859181_5a298b5986_w.jpg
[/url]1C6D0156-B5EB-4AB0-8A30-A494B9A4D6E9 by dcbus, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
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Nickm1024cobra

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
362
Loc.
Chicago Burbs
What’s up!! I’m still around. Just moved on to swapping some other cars. F100..mustangs, etc.

Glad to see people getting after the coyote!
 
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OP
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Nickm1024cobra

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
362
Loc.
Chicago Burbs
To answer a couple questions. You need a short steering column. Believe it’s a 28”. Longer than that it’s either going to be in your lap or in the coyote head.

Transfer case...if I did another one I’d probably consider cutting the frame rail and moving it and running the f150 case. You’re not running that case in a stock frame without modifying the frame. With that said, I’d probably cut it next time and forego all the adapters and such.
 

Halfwheeler

Newbie
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
3
NickM - thanks my thoughts exactly on the TC. Once I get my one-off mounts in (not from the typical vendors) then I will check the amount of frame modification required to to run the stock BW TC. this will be cheap and prefect from my perspective (no rock crawling, etc.) for my eventual driver.

Where did you get your shortened steering column from / brand? I plan to run an auto cable style shifter - but I think I need to drill another hole in the firewall to make it work. I read through your frustration/ saw the videos on getting the linkage style connected - the Ididtit I got with my roller will be too long.
 

tripleJs15

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
157
Figured out my Gen2 F150 coyote swap power steering set-up. Posting info about how here in case anyone else is looking to do something similar and wants the part#s. I used the KRC-66302125 pump kit, which runs a new pulley from the water pump to the power steering pump. It lists around $700-$800. You have to delete the serpentine tensioner on the right side of the timing cover. Then, I used a stretch belt (Gates K040338SF) to run the factory AC. And, I replaced the serpentine belt with a shorter one (Gates K060465) to run the water pump and factory alternator. This works bolted up to the Gen2 F150 timing cover with OEM accessories. I also notched the frame a little near the alternator and trimmed the frame support bracket near the AC just to give me a little more room.

This is immensely helpful, in addition to notching the frame do you have a body lift or none, and did you do a suspension lift?
 

Beresb

Newbie
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
6
Really enjoyed this thread and learned alot such that I am going this route with my build. Hope NickM or RGuest and others might be able to clarify.

Is there a requirement to buy new harnesses and control packs if you can source a complete F150 drive train that includes all wiring?

Transfer case: I saw an episode on Texas Metal where they dropped in the entire drive train and appeared to use existing harnesses. Not sure how they made the Tcase fit but it would save $1K Cdn as I could delete the adapter.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Hey Beresb, welcome to classic! Was that the episode with the light blue four-door conversion? Didn't they make a whole new frame for that Bronco? They do that on quite a few of their builds if I'm thinking the correct show.
If they did not, I would assume they "made it fit" by sectioning the frame in the right spots and making it wider just in that are.
Now you've got me curious enough to try to watch it again. Sorry, was not my cup-o-tea for an EB. I do happen to like to watch the process they go through in their builds, but they are not making trucks like I would ever even consider myself.

Have you started the project yet?
Good luck. Hope you get all your answers in one place.

Paul
 

Beresb

Newbie
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
6
Thanks, Paul! No, it was the original frame but there appears to be some new steel in that area so maybe there was some kind of sectioning, but they also stripped everything off the frame and started from scratch to build a 4-link, so maybe that gained them some space. Body looks like a steel grey with blue frame and cage.

My project starts when the pandemic dies down a bit as it is raging pretty good in my province and the Bronco is at my friend's shop. I am trying to source the coyote now so appreciate any experience/feedback to my question about feasibility of using all existing wiring harnesses and power packs instead of buying all new? There is one available now with all harnesses and complete drive train from a 2015, or they have a couple of engines with no harnesses.

Thanks,

Brian
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Good luck! Be nice if you can use it, or at least most of it. I would bet you can, but have no real world experience with the Coyote setups.

For the frame, I remember when Mitch here at Wild Horses was installing his 700R4 trans and had to notch the frame for some reason. Was kind of surprised at that.

Paul
 

Cipman5916

Newbie
Joined
Sep 27, 2017
Messages
20
Hi Nick,

Great build and thanks for walking us through your build. I am running into a problem and was wondering if you had the part number of the oil filter bracket you used.

Thanks!
 
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