Well first, before I go all Negative Nelly on you, congrats on getting it running (mostly) and on the road (partly) and legal (not really) and having fun!
Now for the Negative Nelly stuff...
Red's got you covered on some, "but wait! there's more!" as they say.
Doctor Fronken-steen right in our midst!
So I forget, is this the '72? Or are you Franken-Bronco-ing something ('77 type rear marker)?
All lights working, except headlights one would work on high beam the other on low beam...
Could be wiring, but just as likely here one bulb is out on low while the other is out on high. Easy to test or check though.
...I'm like babe hoods are not required by law (I'm pretty sure)
Depends on the area maybe, but more and more regions are likely making that illegal too. Not that we used to think much of it, but there are a lot of things that can get thrown up and out and instead of stopping at the hood might go through a windshield. More than likely someone else's. Which is in fact what most laws are more worried about. A bit for you, but more for others.
Check with a cop next time you're chatting one up.
but the steering is still pretty wild so I decided not to take it...on my way back home it started acting like it was running out of gas, go figure.
You started a thread on the steering yet? Any idears what's up yet?
We love a good steering dilemma here.;D
Anyway I'm pulling out of the driveway in my truck and notice the tail lights are still on in the Bronco. Light switch is off, i push the brake pedal and nothing, oh well always something.
Yep. Always...
And it sounds like yours is going to have all sorts of electrical gremlins for the near future.
Well that's a matter of local opinion! Legal as in you have the paperwork, or as in it would pass inspection now? In most areas that have inspections you'd never make it past the first test of the lights!
But hey, if it's got it's papers and nobody's askin' then you're good.
But still have lots of work to do before heading back out on the road.
But you knew that already...
Good point thanks, they sure did go out like an overloaded circuit though!
That's exactly what might have happened. The headlight switch has it's own internal circuit breaker. Overload it, or if it just gets old, it will go out. However, "usually" it comes back on after it cools down (thermally activated, auto-resetting type) so they would usually come back on.
Did they act that way at all? If not maybe the switch is totally buggered due to the breaker getting old.
Playing around with the high-beams, especially if more powerful H4's have been installed, is usually what puts an old switch over the edge.
Will do, for the record the rear side markers only come on when it’s running (maybe thats normal I dunno)
Nope. This is the '72 in your sig? No front side markers I see. New fenders or was it like that already?
I see the rears are there but in the factory '77-only vertical position. That something you did by choice, or were they that way already? Either way though, any side markers from the factory should be on in both switch positions.
They are often loose and finicky bulb sockets though, so might be old and crusty and recalcitrant and not wanting to play until they either see more voltage (engine running and alternator putting out more power) or the vibration of the engine is causing them to turn on.
Next time the lights are on but the markers not lit, walk up and smack the fender near the lens, or just hit the lens and see if they come on, or flicker at least.
Then reach behind and wiggle the wires.
...and the right reverse light comes on with the light switch (I’m guessing the left needs a bulb) can someone tell me about the reverse switch, location etc? My 66 doesn’t have one thanks
Yep, as was said the factory put a simple plunger-type switch at the base of the steering column under the hood, where the shift lever for 1st/reverse would hit it when up in the REV position.
It might even be clamped to the column with a hose clamp holding the bracket.
Two wires, both Black w/red will be there. Power will be at one with the key on, but not the other until the switch is pushed. Easy circuit to test, even if you have to check it's whole length.
And yes, the sockets on these old lights get old, rusty and crusty, and bulbs go out too. So several things to check.
Oh and also the dimmer switch is not mounted/grounded
No problem. It's a simple pass-through type switch, with on wire coming in and two wires going out to the lights. The grounds are at the lights themselves (radiator core support) so the switch can work without being mounted.
Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, which need grounding.
Got all that?;D
Fun to come...
Paul