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Very slight pits in Dana 20 rails

661buster1963

Full Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
287
I have my Dana 20 ready to put back together and notice some small pits in the seal area of the shift rails near where the shifter linkage hooks in. I thought about just putting it together as is but did hit the surface with some oil and 400 wet/dry paper but Is there a cheap and easy process? Thought about thorough cleaning and rubbing some wax on the rails. If the answer is buy new ones or weld the surface and put in a lathe and tHen turn it down I will live with what I have can’t Leak that much. Thanks in advance
 

JB Fab

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Mar 21, 2004
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JB_Custom_Fabrication_D20_shif_rails_large.jpg



We have stainless steel replacements if you need them (machined for twin-stick use)

Jon
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,316
I wouldn't worry about it. At worst you may get some slight oil seepage but it won't be bad enough to ever drip to the ground from there. The rails are well above the oil level. You'll have other D20 leaks to spend your time on.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,224
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Devcon Steel putty would be best, but probably will work with J-B Weld. Thoroughly clean, de-grease, etc. and fill the pits with epoxy. Then carefully file and sand the rails smooth and round. Spinning them in a drill press can be handy.
 

AZ73

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Mar 28, 2012
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JB_Custom_Fabrication_D20_shif_rails_large.jpg



We have stainless steel replacements if you need them (machined for twin-stick use)

Jon

I'm fairly certain you have to disassemble the D20 to install these? My builder put the pills back in and I really don't want to pull it all apart again. Any way to do this without completely disassembling?
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,224
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Curious what alloy SS those are. I would think any of the 300 series would be too soft and malleable and would not be my first choice.
 
OP
OP
661buster1963

661buster1963

Full Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
287
I tried some Cytec aerospace epoxy, guess it wasn’t clean enough so I think I am just going to install them. I ran them across an Arkansas stone axial after grinding and filling the rear rail. I was going to grind for the interlock pills but since ain’t nobody going to drive it till I die with my boots on it will be someone else’s issue with avoiding getting cross ways with the front and rear rails. Viper is right the rails sit high and even I am sure some motor oil will Leak elsewhere anyway
 

JB Fab

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Curious what alloy SS those are. I would think any of the 300 series would be too soft and malleable and would not be my first choice.

17-4 stainless steel (precipitation hardened after machining).
Hardened to H900
Ultimate Tensile Strength 190K
Yield Strength 170K
 

JB Fab

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
1,240
I'm fairly certain you have to disassemble the D20 to install these? My builder put the pills back in and I really don't want to pull it all apart again. Any way to do this without completely disassembling?

Yes, you are correct, complete disassembly required...
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,224
Loc.
Upper SoKA
17-4 stainless steel (precipitation hardened after machining).
Hardened to H900
Ultimate Tensile Strength 190K
Yield Strength 170K
That is the SS alloy I'd choose to try first, though I'd be inclined to H-T to a little more ductility. H900 used to be my default H-T call-out for this alloy, but I'm finding that I get better results with other H-T's depending on the application. Say 1075 to 1150-M depending on what the detent notch wear looked like.
 
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