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Dead in the water

greenmonster

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
15
Loc.
Southampton
So I am changing my steering wheel to a nice mahogany wheel, and it does not fit the Grant hub that the previous owner used. Of course I do not disconnect the battery! (Should know better) So I reinstall the Grant wheel and turn the key and nothing. No lights, no power. The batteries are fine, The winch works. But the there is no power to anything other than directly off the battery. So I changed the ignition switch (wow is that a fun job!!). Still nothing. I noticed a black/gray wire loose (wires are 50 years old so who knows what color it was) in the vicinity, with a "connector" on the end of it. Never seen anything like it. Does it stuff into the ignition block that couples with the switch? Does it go into the headlight switch? I ordered a new headlight switch and a new ignition key assembly. Help!!
 

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yakelys69

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
736
First thing you should do is buy a volt meter, I think HF has um cheep. check continuity and voltage but not at the same time. Then start tracing your power from your battery to your fuse panel.
 
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greenmonster

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
15
Loc.
Southampton
First thing you should do is buy a volt meter, I think HF has um cheep. check continuity and voltage but not at the same time. Then start tracing your power from your battery to your fuse panel.

Thanks I will try that. Have you seen that wire and connector before near your ignition and headlight switches?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
And stop buying unrelated parts, at least for the moment greenmonster. New stuff might help, but it often makes it worse because the quality of today's parts can leave you thinking that you've fixed one thing, when in fact you've added another fault.

First, there is nothing in the steering column or wheel (usually) that can kill power to the vehicle.
Second, there is nothing in the headlight switch that can kill power to the vehicle.
Also nothing in the ignition switch that can kill power to the rest of the vehicle.
And lastly there is nothing in the fuse panel that can kill everything.

Yes, the ignition switch could cause things like the heater to stop working, but not the headlights. And vice versa...
So go back to the basics. Is this all stock wiring? Sounds like it from your description, but wanted to make sure.
I don't recognize that wire in your pic, but it's very small and my eyes aren't what they used to be! Can you take it again, or upload a larger version of it? You said it's Black w/grey (but likely faded)?

The main things that can kill the whole power to the vehicle are four:
1. Main positive battery cable to the starter relay.
2. Main ground cable to the engine. But if the secondary one to the body is intact, things would still work. Make sure you have both.
3. The fusible link on the larger Black w/yellow (might be just black, or black w/red depending on year) can be blown. Check it for puffiness and discoloration.
4. The same Black w/yellow wire behind the instrument cluster's ammeter has a connector that might have come apart or gotten rusty.

Did you disconnect the battery when working on the wheel? One thing I can think of that messing with the steering wheel area could have caused this would be if you shorted something out and it blew the fusible link.
Normally, nothing in the column is this heavy duty, but who knows what all has been done over the years.

What year is your Bronco?

Thanks. Good luck!

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
Where was your picture taken? What part of the vehicle is that?
Under the dash, under the hood, somewhere else?
You said vicinity, so probably near the column? What side?
Hmm, grey... Was it there before, or could it have been left off of the side of the ignition switch? There is a small flat blade connector visible (or feelable) on the side of the switch that is for the Brake Warning Lamp on the dash. This is one of the few single-wire, flat-blade connectors you'll find on Broncos usually.

Thanks

Paul
 

yakelys69

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
736
Have you seen that wire and connector before near your ignition and headlight switches?

Yes, that’s jab fab, and why you need a voltage meter. Take it one step at a time and with the help of this forum it’s a good chance it can be fixed.
 

Boss Hugg

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
2,142
If I recall there is a spade connector separate from the ign switch connector. I can't recall what the extra wire connected there was for, but I think it was a purple wire on my 73.... Not sure if this will help, but that connector, what I can tell of it from your picture, look like a female spade connector "housing."
 
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greenmonster

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
15
Loc.
Southampton
And stop buying unrelated parts, at least for the moment greenmonster. New stuff might help, but it often makes it worse because the quality of today's parts can leave you thinking that you've fixed one thing, when in fact you've added another fault.

First, there is nothing in the steering column or wheel (usually) that can kill power to the vehicle.
Second, there is nothing in the headlight switch that can kill power to the vehicle.
Also nothing in the ignition switch that can kill power to the rest of the vehicle.
And lastly there is nothing in the fuse panel that can kill everything.

Yes, the ignition switch could cause things like the heater to stop working, but not the headlights. And vice versa...
So go back to the basics. Is this all stock wiring? Sounds like it from your description, but wanted to make sure.
I don't recognize that wire in your pic, but it's very small and my eyes aren't what they used to be! Can you take it again, or upload a larger version of it? You said it's Black w/grey (but likely faded)?

The main things that can kill the whole power to the vehicle are four:
1. Main positive battery cable to the starter relay.
2. Main ground cable to the engine. But if the secondary one to the body is intact, things would still work. Make sure you have both.
3. The fusible link on the larger Black w/yellow (might be just black, or black w/red depending on year) can be blown. Check it for puffiness and discoloration.
4. The same Black w/yellow wire behind the instrument cluster's ammeter has a connector that might have come apart or gotten rusty.

Did you disconnect the battery when working on the wheel? One thing I can think of that messing with the steering wheel area could have caused this would be if you shorted something out and it blew the fusible link.
Normally, nothing in the column is this heavy duty, but who knows what all has been done over the years.

What year is your Bronco?

Thanks. Good luck!

Paul

Hi Paul
So I just bought this 68 lifted and modified Bronco from eBay. It was being sold by a guy in the next town. It was a restomod from in Oregon in 2010, and modified some more after that. There is a lot of new wiring mixed in with old wiring. Dual batteries in the bed of the half cab. Dual solenoids etc. Really nice truck with lots of off road goodies that were never used until I got it. I take it on the beach in Long Island and use the front and rear ARB Air lockers. The under dash wiring, where the picture is from, near the ignition switch, shows this lone wire hanging loose. I had thought from searching the Forum for ignition issues that there were a few killer wires that when disconnected would kill the electrical system. Like a faulty ground. Or the Ammeter wire. But I am new to Bronco land so I do not know. I do know about old ford wiring as that was what I dealt with restoring a 66 Mustang. But, every model has its own issues.
Orson
 

Skytrooper15

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
216
Loc.
Tuscaloosa,Al
My horn stopped working and I looked at a wiring diagram and the horn feeds off of the headlight switch on my 70 model.While looking under the dash I noticed a loose black wire with a connector on it just hanging loose like yours to the left of the switch and I replaced the headlight switch and everything worked after that.I think that wire goes to an accessory that is not in my Bronco,my advise is to ignore it.Have you tried jumping the starter relay out to see if it will crank?
 
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greenmonster

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
15
Loc.
Southampton
Ok that is awesome news Skytrooper15. I was wondering if that wire pulled out of the ignition switch as there are some terminals that are occupied by two wires. I also understand that the headlight switch has a breaker in it that flips off with a short, and that the horn wire, which probably shorted when I took off the steering wheel, tripped the breaker. And maybe it did not come back on and that is why there are no lights and the battery is fully charged.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
If I recall there is a spade connector separate from the ign switch connector. I can't recall what the extra wire connected there was for, but I think it was a purple wire on my 73.

The under dash wiring, where the picture is from, near the ignition switch, shows this lone wire hanging loose.

Yep, the Purple wire on a Bronco is for the Brake Warning lamp on the dash and plugs into the side of the switch on it's "proof out" post. Only connects (to ground) when the switch is turned to START to test the lamp circuit.

I had thought from searching the Forum for ignition issues that there were a few killer wires that when disconnected would kill the electrical system. Like a faulty ground. Or the Ammeter wire.

Yep, ammeter wire would do it. Battery cables as well. But not much else.
Since the ammeter wire is part of that big loop between the alternator and the battery, if any part of it fails it can kill things. If it's a '70 or earlier model check the firewall connectors too. I forgot about that part.

But, every model has its own issues.

Boy, ain't that the truth!

Paul
 
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greenmonster

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
15
Loc.
Southampton
Yep, the Purple wire on a Bronco is for the Brake Warning lamp on the dash and plugs into the side of the switch on it's "proof out" post. Only connects (to ground) when the switch is turned to START to test the lamp circuit.



Yep, ammeter wire would do it. Battery cables as well. But not much else.
Since the ammeter wire is part of that big loop between the alternator and the battery, if any part of it fails it can kill things. If it's a '70 or earlier model check the firewall connectors too. I forgot about that part.



Boy, ain't that the truth!

Paul

the firewall connectors is another good tip, I remember they can loosen up over time with engine vibration.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
And corrosion from the under-hood conditions too. Definitely worth at least pulling them, cleaning 'em up the best you can, and re-installing them.

Worth a few minutes of time just to rule it out if nothing else.

Paul
 
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