72 302 Rebuild

I have decided to rebuild my 72 block. Major reason is cost. 2nd is my son is a senior in HS and I can do it with him this spring before he leaves for college, so bonding time.

Question one: How does this look so far, anything bad?

These chips / dents on the piston I believe are from either I took out the piston 2.5 years ago or being left underneath engine and got kicked by the boys. I plans to smooth with Emory cloth on the top and sides. OK?

There are some small changes in color on the #1 rod bearings, but not on the crank. But I can feel just a little edge with my finger nail on rod bearings. For this reason I plan to replace all rod bearings, but not the pistons, rods, nor crank. I'm bored over at .020 and supposedly it was balanced per the markings by the shop that did it (on the crank).

Should I be worried about the crank bearings? Should I take one main cap off and look at them? Look at all of them?
Do the color changes mean too much heat? Should I try to flush out the oil system? How? Any other tell tale areas pointing to too much heat?

The pistons cleaned up real nice so far.

I'm trying to plan the parts I need to get for the build. This is what has been suggested:

Edelbrock 170cc E-Street Heads for Flat Tappet Cam.
Comp Cam Kit - XE256H or XE262H with Lifters and Timing Set
Weiand Street Intake (Extra Port For Temp Sensor) for T-body EFI
Headers of choice
Sniper EFI

Any suggestions of parts or brands that work with this set up, or to replace in this list would be great. Thanks, Forrest

At the very least you should replace the main and rod bearings and freeze plugs. Be sure to double check the size of bearings you need in case the crank was ground.

You're spending quite a bit of money on cam, heads, EFI, etc...I would go the extra mile and get the block cleaned and checked as well. If the block is ok, I'd hone it, buy new rings, install camshaft bearings...and so on.

U got a pick n pull around you? If so, look for a pair of heads off a 96 Explorer. (GT40) heads. Good, cheap heads. Talk to machine shop about the cost of redoing heads. Make you son go with you to rome the junkyards and look for stuff. My son is a freshman at MSU. I miss my helper. Good luck.

Those mains and rod bearings are bad. Get the crank checked get new bearings. When you see copper coming thru the Babbitt they bearings are at the end of their life.

You'll need to have the machine shop measure the cylinder taper. You can't just look at the hone marks and say it's ok.

tirewater said:

At the very least you should replace the main and rod bearings and freeze plugs. Be sure to double check the size of bearings you need in case the crank was ground.

You're spending quite a bit of money on cam, heads, EFI, etc...I would go the extra mile and get the block cleaned and checked as well. If the block is ok, I'd hone it, buy new rings, install camshaft bearings...and so on.

Click to expand...

I’m looking at the Edelbrock power package for 1740.00, has cam, lifters, pushrods, heads, Intake, gaskets, bolts. I like your idea of going extra mile.

hammer189 said:

U got a pick n pull around you? If so, look for a pair of heads off a 96 Explorer. (GT40) heads. Good, cheap heads. Talk to machine shop about the cost of redoing heads. Make you son go with you to rome the junkyards and look for stuff. My son is a freshman at MSU. I miss my helper. Good luck.

Click to expand...

My other boy is sophomore studying mechatronic engineering. Miss him a lot.

svastano said:

Those mains and rod bearings are bad. Get the crank checked get new bearings. When you see copper coming thru the Babbitt they bearings are at the end of their life.

Click to expand...

Well shit, glad you told me. Time to really pull it apart a see if it is worth the endeavor. Nuts

blubuckaroo said:

You'll need to have the machine shop measure the cylinder taper. You can't just look at the hone marks and say it's ok.

Click to expand...

Ok, tear apart and have a machine shop look at it. If it needs a lot of machine work, I may have to reconsider the Jegs Blueprint short block 347. Ugh. I maybe back to pricing stroker parts again. Scat vs. Eagle?
Stay tuned :-*:-*;D

Just for your info. I am rebuilding my 77 302. I just got a call from the machine shop yesterday and it is done. it is costing me approx. 1800.00 for re-ground crank, bore .030 over, new pistons , rings bearings, heads decked, new valve guides, all new valves and reseated, New valve springs, hot tank block, checked for main bearing journals in the block to make sure they were in a strait line. also full gasket set. All I have to do is put it together.

svastano said:

Just for your info. I am rebuilding my 77 302. I just got a call from the machine shop yesterday and it is done. it is costing me approx. 1800.00 for re-ground crank, bore .030 over, new pistons , rings bearings, heads decked, new valve guides, all new valves and reseated, New valve springs, hot tank block, checked for main bearing journals in the block to make sure they were in a strait line. also full gasket set. All I have to do is put it together.

Click to expand...

This is info I needed. I can't see how it would be cost efficient to keep going with this build. Granted, I would not use the existing heads nor cam, I believe I have bad rod bearing and cam bearings, which means I gotta check the mains. That means everything will need to be checked 1st. Thanks for the machinging numbers...anyone else have recent machining numbers?

My suggestion is to take couple weeks and read engine rebuild sites
and videos. Your questions are so basic, there is no way a thread
on here is going to cover the entire baseline of an engine rebuild.

It will also help you immensely on which direction you should go,
based on what you have. I'm not saying don't ask questions, but if you
don't get up on the basics, you could miss something critical.

I've done plenty of engines, but my last two "new" shortblocks,
I paid to have put together. It was only $5-700 more over the
parts/engine work to have experts from Fordstrokers and Tim
Meyer (408, not small block based) to put them together.

It might be worth going that route, still leaves you the entire top end and
fuel injection to put together with your son. Some nice bonding time
and a heck of a lot easier than the shortblock part.

Totally agree...

OX1 said:

My suggestion is to take couple weeks and read engine rebuild sites
and videos. Your questions are so basic, there is no way a thread
on here is going to cover the entire baseline of an engine rebuild.

It will also help you immensely on which direction you should go,
based on what you have. I'm not saying don't ask questions, but if you
don't get up on the basics, you could miss something critical.

I've done plenty of engines, but my last two "new" shortblocks,
I paid to have put together. It was only $5-700 more over the
parts/engine work to have experts from Fordstrokers and Tim
Meyer (408, not small block based) to put them together.

It might be worth going that route, still leaves you the entire top end and
fuel injection to put together with your son. Some nice bonding time
and a heck of a lot easier than the shortblock part.

Click to expand...

I personally wouldnt use those pistons that dish they have are for low compression be lucky to have 8.2-1. even with 58cc chambers. If cost is a factor You may be better served forgetting the heads getting the short block done right. You can add heads at any time. Id want to shoot for about 9-1 comp ratio your camshaft choice will work much better and over all power will be better.
m doing about the same thing right now with a stock 77 block but the stock 77 pistons are flat tops so they will be fine. I just have to take my block and crank in as the crank has some wear and will need to be turned undersize.

Also if you do go with the aftermarket heads there will be other parts needed like hardened pushrods and rocker arms. Costs add up fast with every little part. Some one mentioned explorer heads which are a little help but you may still need parts for them to work plus you really wont want to use those stock piston with heads that have larger chambers ie explorer as your comp ratio will drop even lower.

as suggested research some more. Yes you can pick parts that people say work but all the parts kinda need to be matched and thought out before just putting a combination together. in any case it will run but it may not run how you want it to.

I like to have the machine shop bore, install cam bearings, size the rods and pin fit the pistons. Then I take it home and put it together.
It's good work. It's oily but not greasy and dirty.
Best thing is, you built it.
If you don't already have this book on rebuilding the small Block Ford, now is the time to get one.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Ford-Engines/dp/0912656891

I have built several engines over the years. My Dad was a mechanic and so I did it with him to learn how, I built the 302 in my 65, the 5.0 in my daughters 67, the 331 in my 89 mustang, and the 4.0 in my sons jeep. I tell you this because this time I decided to buy a crate engine. I wanted a 408 and it turned out I could get what I wanted in a matter of a few days from summit racing already dyno tested and everything for very little more than the cost of doing it myself. Just FYI here is a complete long block 302 no core deposit or anything that you could have in under a week for 1799 plus tax, free shipping unless you are doing it just for the experience and enjoyment it is really hard to beat there prices. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpf30216c it is a 50oz imbalance so you would need the proper balancer and flywheel of course.

OX1 said:

My suggestion is to take couple weeks and read engine rebuild sites
and videos. Your questions are so basic, there is no way a thread
on here is going to cover the entire baseline of an engine rebuild.

It will also help you immensely on which direction you should go,
based on what you have. I'm not saying don't ask questions, but if you
don't get up on the basics, you could miss something critical.

I've done plenty of engines, but my last two "new" shortblocks,
I paid to have put together. It was only $5-700 more over the
parts/engine work to have experts from Fordstrokers and Tim
Meyer (408, not small block based) to put them together.

It might be worth going that route, still leaves you the entire top end and
fuel injection to put together with your son. Some nice bonding time
and a heck of a lot easier than the shortblock part.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice

sprdv1 said:

Totally agree...

Click to expand...

Thx x 2

broncnaz said:

I personally wouldnt use those pistons that dish they have are for low compression be lucky to have 8.2-1. even with 58cc chambers. If cost is a factor You may be better served forgetting the heads getting the short block done right. You can add heads at any time. Id want to shoot for about 9-1 comp ratio your camshaft choice will work much better and over all power will be better.
m doing about the same thing right now with a stock 77 block but the stock 77 pistons are flat tops so they will be fine. I just have to take my block and crank in as the crank has some wear and will need to be turned undersize.

Also if you do go with the aftermarket heads there will be other parts needed like hardened pushrods and rocker arms. Costs add up fast with every little part. Some one mentioned explorer heads which are a little help but you may still need parts for them to work plus you really wont want to use those stock piston with heads that have larger chambers ie explorer as your comp ratio will drop even lower.

as suggested research some more. Yes you can pick parts that people say work but all the parts kinda need to be matched and thought out before just putting a combination together. in any case it will run but it may not run how you want it to.

Click to expand...

This is very enlightening, helps me get to where I want to with the final engine. I had been thinking of going with the Edelbrock E street top end package, but now see it really wouldn't work with those pistons. They really just suck. I pulled the 1st main today, big old groove in the bearing, and the journal on the crank too. THIS short block is toast w/o a lot of machine work and then reassembly. Not going to go there. Thanks for info, I appreciate it.

blubuckaroo said:

I like to have the machine shop bore, install cam bearings, size the rods and pin fit the pistons. Then I take it home and put it together.
It's good work. It's oily but not greasy and dirty.
Best thing is, you built it.
If you don't already have this book on rebuilding the small Block Ford, now is the time to get one.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Ford-Engines/dp/0912656891

Click to expand...

Ya, I have this book and one more to help me through the process. My brother had recommended FordStrokers.com, seems like what I would definitely do if I was to build it myself.

mustanggarage said:

I have built several engines over the years. My Dad was a mechanic and so I did it with him to learn how, I built the 302 in my 65, the 5.0 in my daughters 67, the 331 in my 89 mustang, and the 4.0 in my sons jeep. I tell you this because this time I decided to buy a crate engine. I wanted a 408 and it turned out I could get what I wanted in a matter of a few days from summit racing already dyno tested and everything for very little more than the cost of doing it myself. Just FYI here is a complete long block 302 no core deposit or anything that you could have in under a week for 1799 plus tax, free shipping unless you are doing it just for the experience and enjoyment it is really hard to beat there prices. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpf30216c it is a 50oz imbalance so you would need the proper balancer and flywheel of course.

Click to expand...

This is really what I have been struggling with, wanting my boy to have the experience that I got building my own engine as a kid, (but it was a short block). My dad was not there mechanically for me, but there was the old colonel across the street that even had an oscilloscope in his garage ('81). He helped me figure that I had the timing 180* backwards, tell me not to forget this and that. I just didn't want to short change my son's experience. Allowing me to talk it through with you guys (and gal?) has helped me out so much.
It just makes so much more sense to go with a short or long block and have the pros put it together for me. I can hopefully get this thing done with him in time for summer wheeling. I want to thank all of you that have chimed in, given thoughtful advice in a friendly and benevolent environment. I love this site. At this point, I will be looking for the best long block we can get, hopefully with warranty. The above engine is less expensive, but I have the parts for the 28oz imbalance already, so the search goes on. I like the Jeg's blueprint 347ci, looks real nice, expensive, but sometimes the piggy bank just has to take a hit.

74 Bronco Billy said:

Thank you for the advice



Thx x 2



This is very enlightening, helps me get to where I want to with the final engine. I had been thinking of going with the Edelbrock E street top end package, but now see it really wouldn't work with those pistons. They really just suck. I pulled the 1st main today, big old groove in the bearing, and the journal on the crank too. THIS short block is toast w/o a lot of machine work and then reassembly. Not going to go there. Thanks for info, I appreciate it.



Ya, I have this book and one more to help me through the process. My brother had recommended FordStrokers.com, seems like what I would definitely do if I was to build it myself.



This is really what I have been struggling with, wanting my boy to have the experience that I got building my own engine as a kid, (but it was a short block). My dad was not there mechanically for me, but there was the old colonel across the street that even had an oscilloscope in his garage ('81). He helped me figure that I had the timing 180* backwards, tell me not to forget this and that. I just didn't want to short change my son's experience. Allowing me to talk it through with you guys (and gal?) has helped me out so much.
It just makes so much more sense to go with a short or long block and have the pros put it together for me. I can hopefully get this thing done with him in time for summer wheeling. I want to thank all of you that have chimed in, given thoughtful advice in a friendly and benevolent environment. I love this site. At this point, I will be looking for the best long block we can get, hopefully with warranty. The above engine is less expensive, but I have the parts for the 28oz imbalance already, so the search goes on. I like the Jeg's blueprint 347ci, looks real nice, expensive, but sometimes the piggy bank just has to take a hit.

Click to expand...

I understand. as far as building it yourself, if you decide to do so I recommend paying for a year to http://sbfbuilding.com/join/video1/ there are tons of high res videos to show you pretty much everything you need to know to build your engine. and as far as the 28 vs 50 oz imbalance, you can get a new balancer from summit with the bolt holes that will match your pulley assembly for 100.00 then you only need either a flywheel or flex plate that is pretty cheap you can buy used or new and all the rest of the parts on your engine will bolt right up . overall it is as cheap as you can build an engine. if you want to go with a stroker short block then chp has some pretty reasonable options https://www.coasthigh.com/14112-SF-F347-SB-p/14112-sf-f347-sb.htm, and so does summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp24 again with free shipping. but a 347 really needs some good flowing heads to take advantage of the extra cubic inches gt40 heads really are too restrictive. but they would work in a pinch I suppose. personally I like edelbrock heads so I think they would work well for you as you had planned. anyway good luck. ultimately you just have to decide how much money you want to spend to get the performance you are looking for.

If you want to build one with your son, which is a good experience for you both, than you could get a short block kit ready to assemble. I have used this company a few times over the last twenty years and have always been happy with their stuff. https://www.competitionproducts.com/Machined-Balanced-Short-Block-Kits/products/1236/

Id do it yourself.As you already know the experiance your son will get is the real benefit. Cost is about the same its not that hard and you get exactly what you want not what ever comes in a crate engine.(usually stuff you didnt want) Take your block to machine shop have them check the bores see if you need to bore it or if it can stay the same size then pick your pistons. Aside from that they do the rest then you assemble.
Most things Id rather do myself even if I have the money to just buy it done. As for engines there are very few that I would be happy buying because they just dont have the parts I want in them. While they would work fine they just wouldnt be what I actually wanted.