Brake warning light reset?

vtboy51 · Mar 20, 2018

I finally got around to replacing the broken dash bulb for my brake warning light. Now it works, but won't shut off.... Over the past year I've replaced the entire brake system (drums all around) and have driven it plenty since, so I know the brakes are bled fine. What am I missing about resetting it???

cs_88 · Mar 20, 2018

I found that the best way to reset mine was to remove the bulb.
Worked great.

B RON CO · Mar 20, 2018

Hi, I'm not sure if your brake warning light may be telling you that the emergency brake I'd hanging on so check that first.
Assuming the proportioning valve is not centered, what works for me is to have a buddy help to bleed the brakes, but instead of gentle steady pressure on the longest brake line, I bleed the left rear wheel, and tell the person in the car to quickly press down on the brake pedal.
In my experience, this will work, but I think I remember sometimes you may need to bleed the left front, but I always go for the left rear first
Good luck

ppetersjr68 · Mar 20, 2018

cs_88 said:
I found that the best way to reset mine was to remove the bulb.
Worked great.

^^^^^^this worked for me after many bleeds.

I did find this, if it helps...

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pag...ckprop-valve-brake-warning-switch-adjustment/

sykanr0ng · Mar 20, 2018

Here is a picture of how the switch works.
The plunger moves to the side that loses pressure as shown on the left.

The plunger needs to be returned to the center position as on the right in the picture.

cs_88 · Mar 20, 2018

ppetersjr68 said:
^^^^^^this worked for me after many bleeds.

Yup, my plan is to just convert the dash light to an emergency brake light instead.

DirtDonk · Mar 20, 2018

Every Bronco owner needs one of those centering tools in their toolbox-of-goodies.
It's just a little thingy that threads into the hole the switch is in, and holds the shuttle piston in it's center position while the brakes are being bled.
This assumes you can get it back to the center position of course, but if it's not jacked or or stuck solid, you should be able to slide it back in place manually first.

And then, if you still can't get the stupid thing to stay there, you simply install the tool and leave it there permanently, while the light switch does into the toolbox!

Paul

FordBronc · Mar 21, 2018

All I see on the end of the proportional valve is the plastic part (Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch that threads into the Brake Pressure Differential Valve) where the elec connector is SUPPOSE to be connected. I see NO wiring, so I do not see how the pro valve is signaling the dash light to be on.

I am pretty sure that the e brake being on is not tied into the brake warning light.. like new cars. Maybe I am missing something here?

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch-Threads into the Brake Pressure Differential Valve / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
Applications: 1968/79 F100/350, Bronco and Econoline & Misc Passenger Cars. When this plastic switch goes bad, the lamp comes on and stays on, so it's possible someone disconnected it. Wesley and Green Sales also have this switch.

The pic is what I found about working on 73-79 Ford trucks.

Seventee · Mar 21, 2018

I recently had the same issue after putting a new bulb in so I could do the E-brake mod. The valve in my H-block was really stuck, so no amount of resetting solved it. I had to manually disassemble the valve to clean and reset, and it's been fine since. Keep in mind that if the valve is truly off-center, you will have greatly reduced pressure to that side. So simply removing the bulb is not an ideal solution as you will still have compromised brakes.

broncobilly72 · Mar 21, 2018

I have found that cracking loose the lines at the master cylinder and let them bleed a little before retightening them tend to equalize the presure in the proportional valve. It is worth a try and can't hurt.

Rustytruck · Mar 22, 2018

The factory way to reset the switch is to mash the peddle hard and hold the pressure. It is supposed to equalize and re center the the spool valve in the block. Provided it isnt stuck due to rust and crap in the lines or in the block its self. Some times you have to mash away for over 5 minuted or so. If worse to worse comes I had to take mine out and take the end cap off and apply hydraulic pressure to the opposite end to blow the valve out. Then clean everything and re assemble and center and lock the spool valve in its proper place. This is a dirty messy job and can be dangerous.

Bart · Jul 28, 2018

Rustytruck said:
The factory way to reset the switch is to mash the peddle hard and hold the pressure. It is supposed to equalize and re center the the spool valve in the block. Provided it isnt stuck due to rust and crap in the lines or in the block its self. Some times you have to mash away for over 5 minuted or so. If worse to worse comes I had to take mine out and take the end cap off and apply hydraulic pressure to the opposite end to blow the valve out. Then clean everything and re assemble and center and lock the spool valve in its proper place. This is a dirty messy job and can be dangerous.

This worked for me. I "STOMPED" the brake peddle HARD and the second time the light went out. Either is fixed it or blew the lumens out of the bulb;D. Seriously, it fixed it. Checked it several times and all if fine now. BTW this was on my Jeep Cherokee that lost a rear brake cylinder, so it works on most of the vehicles

Brake warning light reset?

vtboy51

Sr. Member

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cs_88

Bronco Guru

B RON CO

Bronco Guru

ppetersjr68

Newbie

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru

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cs_88

Bronco Guru

DirtDonk

Bronco Guru

FordBronc

Bronco's, yea I have a couple.

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Seventee

Sr. Member

broncobilly72

Full Member

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru

Bart

Bronco Guru

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