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Go Back   ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

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Old 03/15/18, 08:43 PM   #16
JTex_4
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Hopefully these pics post now.. I still don’t have one in hand but this is what I’m looking for..
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‘74 Ranger - 302 - auto
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Old 03/15/18, 11:42 PM   #17
DirtDonk
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That'll buff out...

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 03/17/18, 10:00 PM   #18
KeithKinPhx
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Fun little factoid. In AZ if you have classic car insurance on any vehicle (limited mileage policy) you don't have to pass emission tests.

Would never put that on my Bronco.
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Old 03/18/18, 04:36 PM   #19
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So if I wanted to go without the spacer.. how do I go about that and what do I need to know?? What would I do with the vacuum line that goes to pcv valve?? From what I understand, I need some type of spacer to keep the carb off the intake to keep it from boiling /evaporating the fuel in the carb?

‘74 Ranger - 302 - auto
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Old 03/19/18, 08:33 PM   #20
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There are plenty of carburetors that are bolted directly to the intake that don't have issues with boiling the fuel. So I don't think that's the primary concern here.
But there are also double-thick gaskets with insulators sandwiched in-between that can be substituted to a certain extent.

The primary concerns are gasket surface matching, and gasket surface matching!
I bet there are plenty of carbs out there that no longer, or perhaps never did, match the mating surface on the intake.
With several different Ford style carburetor gaskets to choose from, it's possible that one of them might be a good match to both the carb and the intake surface.

You can probably drill and tap your own hole for a PCV fitting I would think. Some manifolds might not lend themselves as well to that, but I think most have some way or another to access the common plenum area.
Then again, with an intake that's got two or four discrete holes, the spacer was the manufacturer's answer to a common plenum.
It could still be done with just the intake, but it would require some special creativity with some.

Maybe one of the semi-common 2bbl aftermarket spacers made for performance applications might make a good "adapter" and fit between. Then you'd have an easier part to modify to pull vacuum from.

Trans Dapt 2134 and 2135 open spacers could work maybe? https://www.summitracing.com/search/...6%2B4294863980
Not sure what the diff is. Didn't read the details.
But check some of them out and see if they are compatible with your intake and carb. The wide surface flange area makes compatibility more likely.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 03/22/18, 11:36 AM   #21
JTex_4
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Thanks again Paul

‘74 Ranger - 302 - auto
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Old 04/05/18, 08:26 AM   #22
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All put back together and idling like a champ! Thanks guys! Next up is brakes.. then rust removal...

‘74 Ranger - 302 - auto
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Old 04/05/18, 10:02 AM   #23
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Was the replacement spacer aluminum or iron?
My '77 burned out that aluminum one, just like your did, within the five year emission warranty period. It makes a really loud exhaust leak!
The dealer replaced it with an iron part that lasted many years.

'77 Ranger/cut F&R/PS/PB/Vintage Air/2" suspension lift/1" body lift/T tie rod conversion/33-1050-15 BFG K02 tires/ 302/ Edelbrock 500 CFM 4 bbl/Aero Tanks/ Hooker Headers/ dual ex/ NV3550/ B&M shifter/ JB FabTwin Sticks/ 4.11s/rear posi.
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Old 04/05/18, 11:09 AM   #24
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It’s aluminum, hoping it will just last until I’m ready to rebuild motor. For now, I should be good to go

‘74 Ranger - 302 - auto
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