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Changing from a Crawler to Speed Runner - Coyote Install

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,605
Great thread timing as I'm trying to set my suspension, 4 link, and lowering my lift as much as I can...
 

Tiko433

Contributor
I know just enough to be dangerous
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Jul 9, 2014
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1,786
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South West Florida
Bukin.... I just watched you video on your build thread, post #109 . Man that looks like so much fun!
 

Bukin 67

Bronco Abuser
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
2,262
Bukin.... I just watched you video on your build thread, post #109 . Man that looks like so much fun!

Man, is it ever! It's addictive once you go that route from crawling. Rmc will find that out:)
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Tomah WI
I am really excited to get some changes done to the truck. Little busy right now and prefer to have it in one piece for the summer to drive but after the summer I will get at it.
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Is there any advantage to using 15" tires instead of 17" tires. Looking to buy new tires and maybe rims. 17" has better clearance but more money.
 

thorgan

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
79
15" rims will afford taller sidewalls. This is argued as potentially better ride quality when aired down.
I prefer 17" rims for a shorter sidewall for steering accuracy. Gives you a more connected feel with the road.
You can also fit bigger brakes under the 17's!
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,227
Loc.
Upper SoKA
For going fast the shorter sidewalls of the 17's *might* be a handling/steering response advantage. Like how 33-12.50R15's are slightly better handling than are 35-12.50R15's due to the shorter sidewall. Small gain, but small gains can add up.

I think that there is less unsprung weight in a larger rim for the same OD tire, but I've never done a study on it. Certainly the wheel is heavier by a small amount, but the tire should be lighter. Whether they're mutually off-setting or despite it's lower density the greater volume of tire displaced yields an overall weight loss is unknown to me. My speculation is that it is slightly lighter.
 

pbwcr

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
623
Interesting thread
Been that route with full size and EB.
With lots of desert miles I found leafs are not so good. I was replacing them every year. Reason: with lots of travel the leafs are just seeing to much flexing and the life cycle is short which means either replacing the things or reshaping them. Even some years broken leafs.
Links and coilovers result. For the EB I choose rear 3 link because of the narrow frame. And 4 link on the full size because of the nice wide frame. Both rigs have very tall rear coils with interior box enclosure. Full size front has cut/turn stock setup with King CO and the EB has a 3 link with track bar and Fox CO
Wheels/tires. My study of many desert rigs and my experience is 35"/15 or 37"/17 give the best solution. Good absorption on the bad stuff and minimal damage to the rims. I watched a test session on a rig with 35"/17 and the result was bent rims.
All said and done the EB IMO is inappropriate fro go fast in the desert because of the way to short wheel base. (I notice 35"/15 choices are getting less and less every year). Stretch it and enjoy much better handling.
Oh well maybe I should do the EB all over?
Guys reading this will have a different result

Regards, PaulW
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Dec 15, 2003
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Tomah WI
Getting ready to get going on this. Deer hunting is over so I can take the truck apart. Talked to a good coli over source so I need to now get my front hoops set up to see how it will fit. Probably going with 14" King 2.5" coil overs in the front and hydraulic bump stops. Also ordered material to build a rear four link. Trying to decide if I want to change the rear end to a Ruff Stuff housing or keep the 76 rear end I have. Also looking for a good front sway bar I can install.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,227
Loc.
Upper SoKA
You want the housing with the long taper from the tubes to the center section, NOT the so-called "Banjo" housing.
I.E. one that looks more like this, but preferably one that is "fish-mouthed' and isn't cut square where the tubes insert into it like this one:
91048353_L_70e8ccb4-af20-4cf0-b4ec-5f5761d21aa5.jpg


Not this:
715700_L_2a628354-baf1-4fd4-bc3e-4b85c74e39cf.jpg


I've seen aftermarket housings that are sort of a hybrid between the two, I wouldn't want that for this application. I would want a housing with the most tube to center section gusset shape as I could find.

You also want the tubes to be fully inserted into the housing such that internal gusset plates attach the inner end of the tubes in a location that just barely clears the diff side bearing adjusters.
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Jul 31, 2001
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8,605
I just built one of their rear housings with 14 bolt spindles on the ends... great product BUT ask a LOT of questions when you talk to them if you are going any direction but stock... they don't volunteer any of the important details you will need to know down the road...
 

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ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
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3,227
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Maybe there's a good reason for it, but I'm not impressed by that design. The tube end plates are cantilevered quite a ways away from the diff bearing adjusters.

These are closer, but still not right up next to them:
https://camburg.com/shop/drivetrain/camburg-3-50-rear-prerunner-series-9-axle-housing/

Maybe its a form of snobbery, but I really dislike semi-floating rear axles in serious applications. Nvrstk's use of 14bff spindles would be the direction that I'd take. Especially if I could find 5 X 5.5 wheel hubs to use on them. I've been looking at this kit for the Tow'd 4rnnr: https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/full-floater-chunks-stock/ I rationalize it by telling myself that I won't have to drop the rear drive-shaft to flat tow.....
 

toddsrods

Full Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2011
Messages
199
the one from Tom's looks very similar to the one my dad got from Dutchman's last summer. www.dutchmanaxles.com
we used them because they were local for us, but a great group of guys and the axle seems legit.
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,605
Here ya go TS!

RCV double splined axles with RCV FF hub.

Thom- RCV FF setup only comes in 35 spline but you will need custom axles anyway so the inner can be splined/cut to anything you need. Going to take a bit of torque to twist these up...
 

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pbwcr

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
623
Agree with ntsqd. Full floater and 4340 axles. Part selection depends on how serious of a build you want. Go fast is not the same as a desert racer. For a rig that never sees Baja on their typical race tracks the build would be much less expensive and still work great. Example- 300m is a better solution than 4340 (and overkill for all of us), but for an 99% of the builders just go with the imported (India) 4340. All are triple heat treated to adequate strength levels. Not sure of the RCV metal source, but they sure have a good product.? What to do - IMO just go by 4340 price.
Housing source. Why not go with one of the proven companies? I sure would not go with the one off suppliers or a vendor that specializes in EBs. Camburg, Tubeworks, Dirt Tech, Crisman, Currie, and on and on. All build to your specs, like track, tabs, Axle size (splines), R&P, third member, etc. Just read up on any of the desert builds.
Read my comment on 3 vs 4 link. Been there.
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Tomah WI
Been looking at the Camburg and Dirt Tech rear end also. Like the idea of full floater. Need to do more research. Best for D60 ends or other?
 
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