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Rebuild: Bronco the Debilitated

Viperwolf1

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No change in converter bolt spacing. They're just rounding it to the nearest 1/2 inch. They don't make converters with the wrong spacing. They rebuild converters that have been around for decades. Now sometimes those converter studs can get bent if they're handled roughly.

The 10 1/2", 164 tooth converter is a really odd duck with an extended pilot and it has an equally odd flexplate. A lot of people mistake them for 157 tooth converters but they are not the same.

I don't think there will be enough space to turn the converter behind the flexplate with the engine bolted up. You need to align the studs with the holes when bringing the engine and trans together. When together you will have just enough stud sticking out to start the nuts.
 
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tirewater

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The first Dacco F48 I bought, I was willing to believe that the studs were bent. The next three though?

I received the ATP Z105 flexplate (again). It fits fine over the torque converter studs. I'll use the ATP as the replacement for the Summit flexplate. The engine was balanced with the Summit flexplate, hopefully I won't have too many issues with vibrations. No weight was added or removed from the Summit flexplate, but it is about 50% heavier than the others.

Monument Auto Parts lists the ATP Z105 as the replacement flexplate.

Here are photos of the ATP & Transtar F200. The F200 would need its holes reamed to fit the TC.
 

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tirewater

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Installed power steering pump. Cleaned & tightened steering box bolts, two of which were loose. I'll use the reinforcement plate later on in the build.

I didn't install the power steering pump bracket when I put the adjustment bracket on. I should have. I had to loosen the adjustment bracket, which attaches to the water pump to get the power steering pump bracket on. Reason is the stud that the bracket uses doesn't slide all the way through the bracket. Heh, I'll have to remove everything *again* to fit the power steering cooler bracket...

Nothing hooked up until engine break in.
 

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tirewater

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Pulled rear differential yoke off. Instead of making it easy for myself and marking the nut's relative position, I removed the assembly & bought a new crush sleeve.

Assembly cleaned, the pinion housing will be prepped & painted prior to assembly. Will look fresh against the rest of the aging third...
 

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tirewater

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What a hassle.

Over 50 or so iterations of tightening and checking... Crush sleeve didn't start crushing until ~240ft/lbs. Somewhere between 8 & 12 inch/pounds of rotational resistance, good enough for used bearings.
 

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tirewater

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Installed torque converter into transmission, measured bell housing to flexplate mount distance.

Finally got the transmission bolted to the engine.

The Harbor Freight transmission jack is a blessing and a curse. It's a wobbly son of a bitch that can't decide whether to lift the right side higher than the left or the left side higher than the right. After raising and lowering a few times to adjust the transmission tie downs to the jack, I finally was able to line things up. The pointy oil pan of the transmission leaves much to be desired in terms of a place to rest the transmission on...

I like screw jacks because there's no danger of hydraulic fluid leaking. I dislike scissor jacks because of lack of stability. So the HF jack is nice since I don't have to worry about dubious hydraulic fluid jack quality issues. However it's a tippy beast that easily can lean one way or the other.
 

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tirewater

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Hmm, trying to remember where I was...

Re-installed rebuilt transmission & transfer case.

Installed 34.5" driveshaft, which is too long for my current purpose. Will either put 2.5" lift or buy another shorter driveshaft.

Decided to replace my fuel filler hose & drop my fuel tank.

Fuel tank appears to be from 1977. Pre NWP? The main differences between the NWP 23 gallon & my tank are:

* Shorter filler tube
* 2" filler tube
* fuel pickup tube has shield welded below it instead above it

I ended up having to use a 1.75" to 2" metal adapter to fit a new filler hose on.
 

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tirewater

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Fabricated a muffler & tailpipe from pre-bent tubing. The muffler is a $45 walker, about another $50 or so in tubing & clamps.

This is a temporary setup until Shelton Mfg makes a California system including catalytic converter. Supposedly this summer!
 

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tirewater

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Got the truck started and running. The power steering system was making some awful racket when turning lock to lock. It was a grinding noise that occurred toward the limits of turning.

I was worried it was the steering box. So I bought a new pump instead, lol, I know doesn't make sense - but why not...

$100+ dollars got me a new unit (with reservoir) from Cardone. I went ahead and got a new reservoir because A) I'm lazy and B) The return line metal tube goes almost as high as the fill tube. The old return line was a short spout from the bottom of the reservoir, prone to leaking.

Power steering is very silent now, and easier to turn lock to lock while stopped.
 

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tirewater

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Would that be for A/C drain hoses Paul?

The pressure hoses went into two holes in the firewall behind the carburetor. There was a drain hose though...

The holes were punched through. I'll have to drill them out larger then either put a plug or patch them.

I've surface rust to deal with on the floorboards. So I'll deal with the holes when I address the floorboards. The only question on the floorboards will be por15 or epoxy primer. The floor will end up being body color & carpeted, I just need something on the bare metal.
 

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904Bronco

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I have been using Raptor liner on my floors with success...
Did one Bronco with Linex and got bent over on the price... The new owner ended up removing the Linex and it peeled up without issue... The prep that I was told I needed and paid for was not done.
 
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tirewater

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I have been using Raptor liner on my floors with success...
Did one Bronco with Linex and got bent over on the price... The new owner ended up removing the Linex and it peeled up without issue... The prep that I was told I needed and paid for was not done.

I'll be stripping the paint, then chemically removing the rust. Then por15, filler, sand, then primer, paint, then carpet. The driver side carpet caused some pitting to occur, hence the filler. No holes, knock on wood....

I'm not terribly thrilled with the build quality/paint job of the bronco. Huge paint drips as well as apparently no primer
 
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tirewater

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Hmm, not entirely sure where I was. :p A lot of "minor" things have happened.


Replaced the steering linkage.

Bought entirely too many remanufactured carburetors (3). One from National Carburetor, two from UREMCO. Third times charm I guess, finally got a 1.08 venturi that didn't have cracked emulsion tubes.

Oh, pulled carpet, pitting on driver side floor. :p Bleh... Pics are driver side, passenger side & driver side rear footwell.
 

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tirewater

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High NOX values.

The tech felt it was the EGR causing the problem. I had a new EGR valve, and I had tested vacuum to the valve. It was hard to get a consistent vacuum reading while driving 25 due to inconsistent pavement, but there was vacuum.

So I've done:

-Colder spark plug. The stock recommended plug is the 26, which is the hottest plug in that line. My engine has higher compression than stock, so I should've dropped down to a 25 - of course I didn't know much about plugs at the time anyway. I put 24s in for now, if they foul I'll go up to the 25. Presumably this will lower the combustion temperature. Wife's tale? Dunno, internet says 70-100 degrees lower per colder rating.

-Replaced cat. Bought the CA Magnaflow catalytic converter. My old one had some blockage, and a lot of the holes were smaller due to build up. This will likely make the biggest difference.

-Backed off vacuum advance by 1/2 turn. I had to widen the vacuum advance port hole on the distributor. Not sure if it's a CA thing, but the hole was too small for a 1/8" allen wrench.

-Separated the air injection vacuum line from the EGR vacuum line. I had EGR/Smog Pump on the EGR port of the carb and vacuum advance on the spark port. Now EGR is on the spark port. If there was a vacuum leak on the smog/air injection then it would've prevented full EGR.

-Test EGR (haven't done it, will tomorrow). Applying vacuum to the EGR valve while idling is suppose to kill the engine. I'll check this.

-Upped to #52 main jets (from #50). Not really smog related, but the truck seems to run out of steam pretty early in the RPM range. Also, my spark plugs were lean. Lean running condition can raise NOX.

-Put a spacer between the master cylinder and the brake booster. I had bought a new brake booster to replace the leaky old one. The piston didn't seem to adjust back far enough to have slight space between it and the master cylinder. I was worried that I was having some brake drag during the test.
 

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tirewater

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Well, when I pulled the master cylinder from the brake booster to add a spacer, some brake fluid came out. Leaky master cylinder. I wasn't terribly thrilled, so I replaced my brakes. (the hoses were original as far as I could tell, I'll post a photo later) New master cylinder (booster was just replaced), new brake hoses, new brake lines.

I bought the stainless steel brake lines. The front passenger line had the wrong fitting on it. I haven't contacted the seller or the manufacturer yet. I ended up cutting the fitting off, installing a new fitting and flaring the end. We'll see if it leaks. I'll be letting both the seller & manufacturer know they need to improve quality control.

I also bought new hoses from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder.

My feelings:
-I'd recommend the plain steel lines over the stainless steel. PLain steel is a lot cheaper, and much easier to flare.

-The double coil hard lines from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder are fine. I had bought the hoses from WH (the SS lines did not come from WH). They're nice, so I don't have a complaint about quality. I'm not thrilled about the four extra double flare unions that have to be tightened. This reminds me, I have to quadruple check that all four are tightened before I add fluid tomorrow.
 

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tirewater

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Oh, decided to replace my shocks. I don't know what suspension I want to end up with, so I bought some cheap KYB shocks for the time being.

Of course they don't fit. The length between the control arm and shock tower ,with eight on axle, is equal to the extended length of the shocks. My measurement between the front axle & frame is 7 1/4", which would imply I don't have a lift.

Not sure if I have some ridiculously long shock towers. Or the "stock shock" calculators that Rockauto/Autozone/Amazon use are simply incorrect.
 

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