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several questions I need help with

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
Right now I essentially have a bored over .30 new short block 302. Low end is stock crank. Im going to run the FI tech...if that matters

Ive ordered a new set of aluminum GT40 heads, so I need help putting the rest together..(parts wise, no install wise)

Question #1- Ive researched and determined I want the Comp Cam 268H series and lifters, hydraulic Flat tappet..so question is..Which set of roller rockers should I order and which set push rods, and guide plates?

Question #2- Ive rebuilt the 9 inch rear, what are the best fluids to fill it up with in your opinion

Question #3- I rebuilt the Dana 20, what is the best fluid to fill it up with

Question #4- Rebuilt the dana 44, best fluid yadi yadi

Question #5- Giving that Im running the FiTech, what intake do you guys recommend?

thanks for all yalls help.
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
Lube: Red line
Intake: Edelbrock Performer or Weiand dual plain.

I used Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, Comp Pushrods, Comp Guide plates, Edelbrock Springs.
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
I went with all Comp valve train parts Have always had good luck with them and their support. They have some aluminum roller rockers that about 150 bucks that are nice. The Weiand intakes are nice and sit low for hood clearance. Ken
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
Yes.
Synthetic.

Hot Rod Shops typically carry it.

While it "is" the greatest thing since sliced bread don't cut your wrists if you can't find it.
Synthetic Valvoline is very good as well and available at every parts store around,
 

nickgp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
1,023
I would keep the valve train components from one manufacturer. If your set on the Comp Cam camshaft(and they are fine) go with all of their other pieces. They will be able to match it all up so no surprises down the road. I've had good results w the Edelbrock Performer on both a 302(carbed) and a 351(fi tech). As far as the fluids go, I like to use a quality, non synthetic in the diffs and transfer case. Valvoline is the go to for me,80/90.
 

pcf_mark

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
3,574
I'm a Valvoline non-synthetic guy too. I think the synthetic weeps from the seals.

Edelbrock Performer Intake for a small Ford is my recommendation.
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
Whatever you use gets some zinc additive for those flat tappets.

really..why do you say that? i guess I need some education because Ive never heard that..but then again I dont deal enough with fords, or building engines, or building diffs..thats why it took me 9 months to build a transfer case and 2 diffs..but Ive learned enough to take others advice ;D
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
Yes.
Synthetic.

Hot Rod Shops typically carry it.

While it "is" the greatest thing since sliced bread don't cut your wrists if you can't find it.
Synthetic Valvoline is very good as well and available at every parts store around,

I would keep the valve train components from one manufacturer. If your set on the Comp Cam camshaft(and they are fine) go with all of their other pieces. They will be able to match it all up so no surprises down the road. I've had good results w the Edelbrock Performer on both a 302(carbed) and a 351(fi tech). As far as the fluids go, I like to use a quality, non synthetic in the diffs and transfer case. Valvoline is the go to for me,80/90.

I'm a Valvoline non-synthetic guy too. I think the synthetic weeps from the seals.

Edelbrock Performer Intake for a small Ford is my recommendation.

thank you all for the feedback.
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
I went with all Comp valve train parts Have always had good luck with them and their support. They have some aluminum roller rockers that about 150 bucks that are nice. The Weiand intakes are nice and sit low for hood clearance. Ken

Thank you. I like Weiand also. the fastest ride ive ever been on was a comp valve train and I was sold.:)
 

langester

Contributor
MASTER OF MADNESS
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
2,660
X2 on the zinc additive. If you have a flat tappet motor it needs zinc, the new oils don't contain enough to keep these motors happy. I just lost a motor at 48 thousand miles because of this. Two lobes on the cam and two lifters cratered and all that metal went to the bearings. I caught it early so it was not a total loss but still hurt my wallet.
Google it or try youtube for more info, it is a real thing. I think there are new additives out there that are made to take the zinc's place but I am sticking with the zinc for now. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, it has the zinc. There are other brands that have it or you can buy an additive. Just my experience!
Good luck with your project!
 

cs_88

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
Messages
1,321
When I rebuilt the Trac Loc in the rear I found that it did not like synthetic.
I wasted about $50 on Mobil 1 gear lube and Red Line friction modifier and still had bad clutch chatter. With conventional lube and a bottle of Ford Racing friction modifier it's all happy.
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
X2 on the zinc additive. If you have a flat tappet motor it needs zinc, the new oils don't contain enough to keep these motors happy. I just lost a motor at 48 thousand miles because of this. Two lobes on the cam and two lifters cratered and all that metal went to the bearings. I caught it early so it was not a total loss but still hurt my wallet.
Google it or try youtube for more info, it is a real thing. I think there are new additives out there that are made to take the zinc's place but I am sticking with the zinc for now. I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, it has the zinc. There are other brands that have it or you can buy an additive. Just my experience!
Good luck with your project!

Thank you!!! will do!!!
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
When I rebuilt the Trac Loc in the rear I found that it did not like synthetic.
I wasted about $50 on Mobil 1 gear lube and Red Line friction modifier and still had bad clutch chatter. With conventional lube and a bottle of Ford Racing friction modifier it's all happy.

Starting to see a pattern of no synthetic...thank you!!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
The transfer case and differentials are very simple and pretty crude I'm manufacturing. They lasted forever on the crude oil of the day. Any of todays name brand oils will be just fine in them.

Thicker oil 90W140 is best if you put a lot of power through it for a long time (towing heavy loads fast up mountains). It can also be said to offer a little more shock protection if you bang parts around. But the thicker oil adds drag.

Lighter oil, 75W90, is a pretty generic gear oil weight. I would run it for most everything. My daily driver came with the 90W140 factory fill and I refilled with 75W90 trying for more gas mileage. I tow with it, have a temp gauge in the rear end, 100k and all is well.

Modern GL5 gear oil (is different than old GL5) and is known for not working well with yellow metal (brass thrust washers in the transfer case).

With as simple as these bear boxes are there really is no need for the "best" oil. Any good oil is more than what any of these will need to last a lifetime. At least longer then at least one of the seals that is holding it in, and they can last for decades.

For my high end oils, I go Motul. Only use it on European motorcycles.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
If you put a high end limited slip in the front/rear use the maker's recommended fluid to fill so you keep your warranty.
 
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