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The Village Idiot's Build - It takes a Village to build this Idiot's Bronco

dave67fd

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Nice job Pete..what a difference a blast and paint makes..Keep on it brother.
 
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fatboy

fatboy

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Paint hides a lot of sins boys! Looks better than it probably really is. Working on the spare column I have and the heater rebuild while the water is coming down.
 
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fatboy

fatboy

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Pulling the dash out so I can put the rebuilt one I have in. I pulled out the column and have a few questions for those in the know. The first picture shows the column I pulled out on the left, next to a 76 auto column "lower section" I have. You can see that the rag joint flange is part of the column of the one I just pulled out. Photo 2 shows the lower bushing, which is a skateboard wheel that was drilled out to size of the inner shaft and then cut in half so they could wrap it around the column and then wedge it into the tube. The third picture is of the lower end of the 76 column showing where the rag joint would bolt onto the column.

Anyone seen a column like this before? Is it cut down or from something else?
 

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dave67fd

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Nice to see you working on it Pete..Keep it up.

On the column I believe that was a "one off" performance piece designed by Tony Hawk;D;D
 
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fatboy

fatboy

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pete I don't have any pics, but I believe the 76', 77' 's have the collapsible shaft between the column and box???%)%)%)

Ben, I will snap a picture but this is a solid shaft with a Jorgensen (sp) joint on one end and the rag joint on the other.

Nice to see you working on it Pete..Keep it up.

On the column I believe that was a "one off" performance piece designed by Tony Hawk;D;D

Dave,

Chet was a crafty one.
 
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fatboy

fatboy

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Well, met up with a few bronco brothers for lunch (tasker and dave67fd) then headed over to see migs. Finished up there and decided to tear the dash out of the yellow truck (with a bit of help from tasker) Started rebuilding the instrument cluster. Between the original one and a spare I had it should be all set. I tested oil pressure, fuel and water temp with a 9 volt and two of the three in the original cluster worked and the fuel worked in the spare. No idea how to test the alternator gauge.

The third cluster in the photo tasker loaned me just in case but I will be able to return it unharmed.

Next will be taking all the pieces and parts for the column I have and trying to make one complete.
 

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NGABronco

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Next will be taking all the pieces and parts for the column I have and trying to make one complete.[/QUOTE]

Hey boy, that ain't no hill for a climber!!!! And I believe you to be a climber!!!;D;D;D Get your butt to work!!!!%)%)%)
 

dave67fd

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Pete,
Looks real good.
To test the ammeter, You should be able to just put a piece of wire through the alternator loop and using a batter charger, connect one lead and then just touch the other. The correct way would be to connect a low resistance load to it but even without you should be able to see the ammeter jump. This is assuming your charger has current fold back limiting which most if not all do. Don't do it with car battery as you can chance explosion. A good load could also be a spare headlight or Ignition resistor.
 

tasker

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^^^WHAT HE SAID!
glad to spend some time with you guys.....never long enough though. glad I could help with dis-assembly.....good at that, not the other way around
 
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fatboy

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Pete,
Looks real good.
To test the ammeter, You should be able to just put a piece of wire through the alternator loop and using a batter charger, connect one lead and then just touch the other. The correct way would be to connect a low resistance load to it but even without you should be able to see the ammeter jump. This is assuming your charger has current fold back limiting which most if not all do. Don't do it with car battery as you can chance explosion. A good load could also be a spare headlight or Ignition resistor.
So a headlight off the battery charger? Could I run a light off of a battery then as well?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
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fatboy

fatboy

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Pete,
Looks real good.
To test the ammeter, You should be able to just put a piece of wire through the alternator loop and using a batter charger, connect one lead and then just touch the other. The correct way would be to connect a low resistance load to it but even without you should be able to see the ammeter jump. This is assuming your charger has current fold back limiting which most if not all do. Don't do it with car battery as you can chance explosion. A good load could also be a spare headlight or Ignition resistor.

Well I finally got to test the ammeter. I took a 30 amp jumper fuse holder and clamped it to a spare battery I have. I ran the wire through the loop and hooked it to the positive battery charger clip. I hooked up the negative side to the negative side of the battery and then turned the charger on to 10 amp charge. Worked like a charm.

Also sorted out the fuse box issues I had. There were at least two wires broken out of the fuse box (actually I think three) but was able to use the attached wiring diagram to sort out which wire goes to which circuit. Now I just need to do some wire stripping and crimping and I will be all set there. Then I pulled out the heater box. Have everything for a rebuild so that is next up. Then I will jam the spots I can reach with the new color and put it all back together.

This is the fuse holder I am going to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/141690476705?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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