Just like there were four or five gear ratio options for many vehicles back then, and even three options for EB's over the years (3.50, 4.11 and 4.56) there are as many opinions as to what is best for an individual, as there are individuals talking about it.
Not everyone wants the same thing. Not everyone agrees that one particular RPM at 60mph is the "perfect" setup for any engine.
And luckily, since most engines do have somewhat of a range of suitable engine speeds where it develops enough torque to propel a vehicle, more than one gear ratio can work.
Many 2wd Ford trucks came with 2.75 ratios! Can you imagine?
In those cases, I consider them, even with stock tiny tire sizes, to be at the ragged edge of even remotely acceptable. I drove a Chevy shop truck with the freeway flyer gears and a reasonably good running 350 in it and a manual transmission.
What an absolute dog! But it was a factory option! Amazing.
The Coyote I bet (but don't know) may have a narrower rpm range for acceptable torque development than a stock 351W did, but it runs super clean with all that EFI and computer controlled wizardry too. That makes a huge difference in what someone might find acceptable in the acceleration department.
So it may just come down to what you personally like. Are you happier with your engines loafing along at lower rpms and don't mind downshifting more to get it to accelerate quicker or climb steeper hills? Or do you want to feel more of that engine under the hood in the form of gitty-up from a stop?
Personally, I like somewhere in the middle.
That puts me firmly in the 4.56 camp though.
I think 4.11's would be totally acceptable as a cruiser. But if I was putting as much time, effort and money into building a vehicle for fun like you are, I'd want to err to the side of quicker acceleration. And for me, err to the side of happier four-wheeling.
Again, 4.56's with 33's.
Because anyone would be on the fence about this (and we almost always are as you can see by the sheer number of "what gear ratio" threads here), I would follow the recommendation of many, and only do the rear 9" gearing at first. Forget the front and just drive around for a few weeks on the rear. If you don't like it, you're only out the cost and time of the rear (easier and cheaper typically anyway) and only have to re-do it once.
Then, once you're happy with your compromise, only then do you match the front to the rear you've chosen.
It's been good advice for years, and any who have followed it have been happy with the results. Not everyone has that option of course, and some must do the front at the same time. But if you have that option, take it.
Paul
