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Old 05/18/18, 10:24 PM   #1
661buster1963
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mediocre at everything master of none

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Very slight pits in Dana 20 rails

I have my Dana 20 ready to put back together and notice some small pits in the seal area of the shift rails near where the shifter linkage hooks in. I thought about just putting it together as is but did hit the surface with some oil and 400 wet/dry paper but Is there a cheap and easy process? Thought about thorough cleaning and rubbing some wax on the rails. If the answer is buy new ones or weld the surface and put in a lathe and tHen turn it down I will live with what I have canít Leak that much. Thanks in advance

1968 bronco, 351W flat tappet, 3 speed, dana 20 twin T shift, dana 44 with disc, 9" 31 spline big bearing , frame and sheet work for frame off restoration. ECD 4/1/19
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Old 05/20/18, 09:15 AM   #2
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We have stainless steel replacements if you need them (machined for twin-stick use)

Jon

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Old 05/20/18, 09:21 AM   #3
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I wouldn't worry about it. At worst you may get some slight oil seepage but it won't be bad enough to ever drip to the ground from there. The rails are well above the oil level. You'll have other D20 leaks to spend your time on.

'74 beater, 5.0 mustang EFI, C4, PS, front discs, twin sticks, 3.5" susp/1" body, 33's, 4.11's, ARBs, Hickey Sidewinder, cobra hydroboost

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Old 05/20/18, 09:27 AM   #4
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Devcon Steel putty would be best, but probably will work with J-B Weld. Thoroughly clean, de-grease, etc. and fill the pits with epoxy. Then carefully file and sand the rails smooth and round. Spinning them in a drill press can be handy.

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Old 05/20/18, 09:46 AM   #5
AZ73
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We have stainless steel replacements if you need them (machined for twin-stick use)

Jon
I'm fairly certain you have to disassemble the D20 to install these? My builder put the pills back in and I really don't want to pull it all apart again. Any way to do this without completely disassembling?

Barn Find 73 going through a nut and bolt Restoration/Upgrade. Follow along at:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=217635

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Old 05/20/18, 09:57 AM   #6
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Curious what alloy SS those are. I would think any of the 300 series would be too soft and malleable and would not be my first choice.

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Old 05/20/18, 09:20 PM   #7
661buster1963
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I tried some Cytec aerospace epoxy, guess it wasn’t clean enough so I think I am just going to install them. I ran them across an Arkansas stone axial after grinding and filling the rear rail. I was going to grind for the interlock pills but since ain’t nobody going to drive it till I die with my boots on it will be someone else’s issue with avoiding getting cross ways with the front and rear rails. Viper is right the rails sit high and even I am sure some motor oil will Leak elsewhere anyway

1968 bronco, 351W flat tappet, 3 speed, dana 20 twin T shift, dana 44 with disc, 9" 31 spline big bearing , frame and sheet work for frame off restoration. ECD 4/1/19
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Old 05/21/18, 07:20 AM   #8
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Curious what alloy SS those are. I would think any of the 300 series would be too soft and malleable and would not be my first choice.
17-4 stainless steel (precipitation hardened after machining).
Hardened to H900
Ultimate Tensile Strength 190K
Yield Strength 170K

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Old 05/21/18, 07:21 AM   #9
JB Fab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ73 View Post
I'm fairly certain you have to disassemble the D20 to install these? My builder put the pills back in and I really don't want to pull it all apart again. Any way to do this without completely disassembling?
Yes, you are correct, complete disassembly required...

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Old 05/21/18, 07:51 AM   #10
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Yes, you are correct, complete disassembly required...

Oh well. Thanks

Barn Find 73 going through a nut and bolt Restoration/Upgrade. Follow along at:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=217635

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Old 05/21/18, 08:13 AM   #11
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17-4 stainless steel (precipitation hardened after machining).
Hardened to H900
Ultimate Tensile Strength 190K
Yield Strength 170K
That is the SS alloy I'd choose to try first, though I'd be inclined to H-T to a little more ductility. H900 used to be my default H-T call-out for this alloy, but I'm finding that I get better results with other H-T's depending on the application. Say 1075 to 1150-M depending on what the detent notch wear looked like.

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