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Dan Wheeler's Dana 60 / 3 link Build Thread

carter2772

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As far as the sterling goes.. I have been talking with a guy I know that works at Randys Ring and Pinion ever since I have stared building the rig. He held the sterling pretty high on his list as far as strenght and parts availability. Also having the aftermarket options, like you stated, with the ARB and gears... He even said to do the sterling over a d60 in the rear because of the strength of the axles and parts already stock in them.

I have not seen the 4link front thread. Can you link it for me? I would like to read it.

The guy that i have somewhat copied his build, did a custom link front and rear, but it was out of my skill range and knowledge at the time and the duff kit made sense. I am starting to think of pulling the duff arms out of the front and building my own link system. I can use those arms on my other eb. I would probably wait till i can atleast try it out first before i pull it. Just a thought I have been having since I saw first hand the non flex. I am curious of the cage brackets though. It cant be much different than the c bushings, if not worse. The cage has less material to flex in their set up / busings at the axle.
 

carter2772

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Here is the guy that i have somewhat mirrored my build towards. He is 4 link front and rear, with coilovers. He isn't a member anywhere i know of, I have only emailed back and forth. I just emailed him some q's about his 4 links and asked for pictures. Watch his vids if you get a minute, his flexes like crazy! I will let you know what info i get form him..

Thanks for the link, I will check it out.

Maybe time to make a link system for these eb's called "Black Magic" hahaha.... hmmmm
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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More of my own questions to answer unless someone knows off the top of their head:

1989 Ford Dana 60 stock yoke? 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410?
1993 Ford Sterling stock yoke?

If they aren't already in stock form, i'm going to want to convert the 60 and Sterling to either 1350 or 1410. Sounds like 1410 is bigger and has greater potential angle.

Which is better - standard or flange yoke? Thinking about adding a parking brake for my Atlas which would require a flange yoke on the rear output shaft.

Guess I should have named this thread "DanWheeler's Replace Everything Below the Pinch Seam Thread"
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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here's a pic of the '93 Sterling axle I'm planning on pulling this weekend. Besides the obvious being under an older truck (it was swapped in) is there anything about it that would indicate it is NOT a Sterling axle? It's definitely a full floater, right?

824978024_nvoez-M.jpg
 

rhinobuggie

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Apr 22, 2008
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More of my own questions to answer unless someone knows off the top of their head:

1989 Ford Dana 60 stock yoke? 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410?
1993 Ford Sterling stock yoke?

If they aren't already in stock form, i'm going to want to convert the 60 and Sterling to either 1350 or 1410. Sounds like 1410 is bigger and has greater potential angle.

Which is better - standard or flange yoke? Thinking about adding a parking brake for my Atlas which would require a flange yoke on the rear output shaft.

Guess I should have named this thread "DanWheeler's Replace Everything Below the Pinch Seam Thread"

Stock D 60 yoke is 1330
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Well I picked up the Sterling axle tonight. It was a real adventure getting it out from beneath the truck. The truck was parked up on muddy lot on the property and it was dark out and pouring down rain. The truck fell off the high lift jack at least once and we had to use firewood rounds to support the truck. 1 U-bolt nut was seized per side so that made things interesting too. Got it pulled though. Took an hour or two.

It wasn't until I got it home and tried to unload it that I started getting cold feet about this 1-ton business. I realized my trailer tongue wasn't actually stuck on the hitch ball... it was just really heavy. :eek:

This is a serious axle. The size and weight of this thing really is unreasonable. It would be a shame to put anything less than 42s on this axle. Am I going to need a bigger engine?

the picture doesn't do it justice.

y3m3Uuu10AEU_e58_J06yb05NknH9A4G92csEwS3qJDP63C0lQircKYi2PJrzZzrfmmJerUXhVmNr36L5qmZvZSBdIwEXTeEeurCL2edwCh2bDdNKX4hCZ4WZmxPm4oMsUC-HJENdpooqXVy128o9KhNM8xRm4_jsOQwgIb0iEIpjs
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Oh and the width is 65" WMS to WMS. The Dana 60 from a similar year is apparently 69.5 WMS to WMS.

Why the difference?
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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also - spring perch width on the Sterling is 40". Stock Bronco is 36" so I will definitely need to weld on new perches but just as well so I can rotate the pinion up a bit.
 

carter2772

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It wasn't until I got it home and tried to unload it that I started getting cold feet about this 1-ton business. I realized my trailer tongue wasn't actually stuck on the hitch ball... it was just really heavy. :eek:

This is a serious axle. The size and weight of this thing really is unreasonable. It would be a shame to put anything less than 42s on this axle.

I hear ya... I was moving around some d 44 a week prior to me picking up my 1 tons. It only took 3 people to move the 44's with ease. HOLY S, the 1 tons took 3 and we all almost blew a gut out! They are VERY HEAVY!
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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get this... the Sterling only hangs down less than a half inch lower than a Ford 9"!

(measured from axle centerline to bottom of center diff section)
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Been researching disc brakes for the rear Sterling. There are a couple options.

Blackbird Customs Rear Disc Brake Kit - $410 w/ non e-brake calipers or $550 w/ e-brake calipers
http://blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index8.html
The blackbird kit uses Chevy rotors which bolt on BEHIND the hub which means you have to remove the hub to remove the rotor. Also causes problems with the lug studs potentially spinning in the rotor unless you get lug studs with really long splines to go all the way into the hub. I also read something about needing to grind down the hub to accept the Chevy rotor on the backside but I'm mnot sure if this is true or not. Sounds like a pain in the ass to me.
df60.jpg


or

TSM Kit - $340 for just the brackets and rotors
TSM Website:
http://www.tsmmfg.com/2670.htm

TSM Disc Brake Kit writeup on fourwheeler.com:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0611_1989_ford_f_250_disc_brakes/index.html
This kit at least uses the E350 rotor which goes on over the hub instead of behind it.

or

4WDFactory.com sells a Sterling disc brake bracket for $50 that accepts 96 E350 rotors and 85 K20 Suburban 3/4 ton calipers (or the 78 Cadillac Eldorado calipers if you want e-brakes

Disc Brake Bracket - $50/pair
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Ford-Sterling-Disc-Brake-Bracket

Rotors from 96 E350 $56 each
NAPA NB 4886799
install on wheel side of the hub for easy removal
667750.jpg


Calipers from 85 K20 Suburban - $60-70 each
NAPA
or the calipers from a Cadillac Eldorado which get pretty spendy

I will probably be buying the brackets from 4WDFactory and getting the rest of the parts from the local NAPA. Put it together yourself and you get brackets, rotors and calipers for a little over $300. Way less than the other options.
 
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DanWheeler

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Nice! Hey, whats the torque specs on the wheel bearings?

dont know - haven't got that far yet :)

Following up on a question I asked about track width front and rear. From what I can tell, the front axles on trucks are made wider to help with steering. If the rear axle is wider than the front it causes it to push out around corners.

so I will trust the engineers and just leave my axle widths as-is which is about 4" wider in the front. (Dana 60 = 69.5 / Sterling = 65) No spacers - no narrowing because it will still see plenty of street driving.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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bow chicka wow wow

y3mc1-GI6FJ5fs2v8J4_bjzfJD8OstxH9i3uLpt3WnMiaAcR6J7X2r7Pj81kupoHUQi7GNmwPr5ikr6f1QA8WPYIeBxeF2arVODi_XlkCJ4dLJSnhFdC7AcwFWp-KUxVAP55UXrtSrBIN7uBrnUBLWW9HnZSEDved94sVZTJw3Hmdo


just arrived.

now I have to try to hold back on installing any of it until my remodeling projects are done.
 
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DirtDonk

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Does the owner of the condo know you're using the kitchen as supplemental garage storage?

Paul
 
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