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Brake lines, which ones, how many and what else when adding a Hydroboost

Aptosgrown

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
117
Loc.
Santa Cruz
Looking to take advantage of the sales this time of year and hoping to get ready to re-do my brakes and add a hydroboost in a month or three. Need some help with brake lines and kits. I have never fully re-done a brake system, just pieces.

Current setup is '69 dana 30 up front with drums all around and stock brake system (no power assist). I plan to run all new brake lines/hoses, mine are crusty, rusty and hoses are cracked. Install a astrovan hydroboost and MC and keep the drum setup (residual pressure valve will be needed) until I have the funds to swap to a dana 44 and disc up front. I have the astro HB, flush firewall mounting plate, and will be getting a new astro MC. I know I will have to figure out AN fittings and hoses in the future.

How would you take care of redoing the brake system (No I am not interested in disc at this time or other power brake setups). I am inclined to buy the full brake line and hose kit from Toms or another sponsor. However, I would assume that the stock steel lines from the proportioning valve to the Astro HB & MC would be different than the original stock lines, different distance and location due to the HB and would not work?

With all of the knowledge on here I am hoping you guys can point me as to:
Do I buy a full kit and lines can be bent a little, or forgo the kit?
Should get Stainless lines? What's the benefit?
Should I get stainless braided hoses from hard lines to backing plate due to the increased power/pressure?
What other parts pieces?
What makes this job easier, tips and tricks?

Thanks for all the help guys!
 

charlie6976

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
404
Loc.
Grand Coulee WA
Brake lines are very important. Any flexible line has the potential to expand, so get good stuff. Others will come aboard. If you go a vender kit or pick/pull, look at Fragola for quality connections and lines. Can all be ordered through Summit Racing (whether listed or not, just talk to the order Dude).
 
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Aptosgrown

Aptosgrown

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
117
Loc.
Santa Cruz
Thanks charlie, that information is helpful!! I will try to keep as long of runs and few connections as possible and will look into Fragola
 

tirewater

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
1,040
Loc.
San Francisco Bay Area
I regret getting stainless steel brake lines. Just get the standard steel ones, you'll have less trouble with leaks due to poor sealing between fittings. My standard steel lines were fine after 40 years, but I replaced them "just because". I spent quite a bit of time looking at brake fluid leaks at the fittings as I "tightened" and "re-tightened". I'm pretty sure I got them all, but it is annoying.
 
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Aptosgrown

Aptosgrown

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
117
Loc.
Santa Cruz
Thanks for the input on the stainless as well as flexible lines. I will look into NiCopp, that is an interesting idea, stuff is definitely more flexible than steel.

duffymahoney - I decided not to use a bracket like that as I had bought one with a bell crank and there are just more points of movement, however it was the angled version similar to your post. I found a plate from Liam at locofomocoracing that is suppose to be flush and allow direct bolt on with Astro HB and has the correct length actuator rod that connects to the pedal, no mod I believe. I still have the 3 on the tree so I am kinda between a rock and a hard place in terms of space. Hopefully it all comes together but at the time (2yr ago) I liked his plate the best out of what I could find out there. My plate is just for the HB but similar to the one he has pictured here about third way down http://www.locofomocoracing.com/page2.html
 
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Aptosgrown

Aptosgrown

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
117
Loc.
Santa Cruz
Has anyone used the bracket from LocoFoMoCo or seen one other than in the link I posted?

Glad to hear it worked for you Great Scott, might be my backup if I run into a problem. Any issues with all the pivot points on that unit?
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Do your own in NiCopp for the hardlines. It bends much better and won't rust. Get the braided stainless for flexible lines.

/\/\ It is also known as cunifer (more to search for but more chance to find it).
 

BigB

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2011
Messages
395
Has anyone used the bracket from LocoFoMoCo or seen one other than in the link I posted?

Glad to hear it worked for you Great Scott, might be my backup if I run into a problem. Any issues with all the pivot points on that unit?

That bracket looks fine and I know others have used it.

I and others have just placed it straight on the firewall. I used a mustang unit and rotated the bracket so that the unit now angles away from the engine nicely. I have a 351w which is wider and it fit's well.
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,852
Do your own in NiCopp for the hardlines. It bends much better and won't rust. Get the braided stainless for flexible lines.

This!! For many, many years I made all my own lines with stainless tubing. After trying the CuNi tubing a couple years ago, I'll never go back. It bends and flares so much easier than stainless but has a similar level of corrosion resistance.
 
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