• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

73 Frame Off "Clear Coat and an Engine"

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Make sure you put the hood on before you move on to much. The hood can be adjusted just so much before everything gets out of line. Especially with aftermarket fenders. I had to buy extra hood shims to get the hood where I wanted it. That was with the factory hood and fenders. Back then Ford wasn't so picky. You won't really know the fit of the fenders without the hood actually mounted. Some people have had to make severe changes to the aftermarket fenders to fit right.
 
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
Make sure you put the hood on before you move on to much. The hood can be adjusted just so much before everything gets out of line. Especially with aftermarket fenders. I had to buy extra hood shims to get the hood where I wanted it. That was with the factory hood and fenders. Back then Ford wasn't so picky. You won't really know the fit of the fenders without the hood actually mounted. Some people have had to make severe changes to the aftermarket fenders to fit right.

Thanks for the tip! I will definitely be doing that.

At first I thought as long as everything is within an 1/8" I would have enough play hanging the other panels. Boy was I wrong. If I've learned anything it's that nothing is right until it ALL goes together and you set the gaps! Did I mention this is my first venture into body work? haha
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Your doing a great job. Nothing like stepping off the diving board with a blind fold on.
 

KeithKinPhx

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
444
Amazing work. If you are ever in Phoenix and bored (not likely with your current project) my restoration is not moving along as quickly.

Keep going.
 

Jamie Chriss

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
576
Great read, I am a month behind you!
 

Attachments

  • 140B77AD-B1E4-4897-9153-763184FC1CE5.jpg
    140B77AD-B1E4-4897-9153-763184FC1CE5.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 67
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
Great read, I am a month behind you!

Looking good. I'm not sure if you've done this before, but if not, all I can say is be prepared to cut it all apart about 100 times haha. I just about have mine all lined up and I'm pretty happy with the body lines and how the doors and tailgate open and close. About to post some more pics. A couple of them might help you out tremendously. Especially since it looks like you're using the Dynacorn panels too.
 
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
EDIT: I realized after this post, I installed the floor pan filler pieces on TOP of the platform. Don't do that, it's wrong.

STRIKER POSTS:
After setting, resetting and setting these things again I've realized there's no way they attach to the floor pan like I thought. Doing it that way I couldn't get the door opening right (39"). The gaps were WAY to tight for my liking. So instead I got them close and secured them to the upper/inner fender and left them apart from the floorpan. This way I got my door opening measurement perfect AND I can separate the back half and move the entire thing to set my door opening. Then all I have to do is shim the hinges/striker accordingly. Hopefully this helps somebody because taking these posts loose gets old in a one car garage lol.

This used to be tacked to the pan support forward of the gap. Couldn't make that work:


So I fit the wheel well and filler piece then fit the striker post snug against the filler and found out everything works much better this way. Oh, and I also had to clearance the bump out because it was hitting the striker mount:
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
SUSPENSION PARTS

Huge Thanks to Jim at Wild Horses. He hooked us up with some great deals on the 3.5" System 3, 3-way adjustable tie rods and drag link, Adjustable Trac Bar and a TON of other goodies to get this thing back in a roller! Now I'm just waiting on the axles from Bronco Connection. Also, check out the "Tailgate Silencer Kit" and the new chrome bumpers. FYI, CJ Pony Parts had some killer black friday deals.

 
Last edited:

Jamie Chriss

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
576
I am dealing with the same demons you are right now! Can you do me a favor and take a shot of your core support where it meets the inner fender? I don't know how far out the lower inner fender comes out past the core support. Also a measurement from where the inner fender and the door kick meets up to the core support, I feel like mine is a bit long. Thanks!!

FYI the door latch pillar and the tail light pillar may need to be trimmed down a bit to get all the metal to line up. I had to trim everything about 1/8 inch or so off all the edges to get everything to line up. Especially an issue when you put on the tail light housings....
 

Attachments

  • DSC_4280.jpg
    DSC_4280.jpg
    62.4 KB · Views: 33
  • DSC_4281.jpg
    DSC_4281.jpg
    59 KB · Views: 32
  • DSC_4278.jpg
    DSC_4278.jpg
    62.2 KB · Views: 34

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,796
And here I am cussing in my living room at my dash wire harness and my carpet didn't fit perfectly. You are doing great man, keep it up!!!
 
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
I am dealing with the same demons you are right now! Can you do me a favor and take a shot of your core support where it meets the inner fender? I don't know how far out the lower inner fender comes out past the core support. Also a measurement from where the inner fender and the door kick meets up to the core support, I feel like mine is a bit long. Thanks!!

FYI the door latch pillar and the tail light pillar may need to be trimmed down a bit to get all the metal to line up. I had to trim everything about 1/8 inch or so off all the edges to get everything to line up. Especially an issue when you put on the tail light housings....

Oh, I've had to trim the hell out of a lot of the panels haha. I would love to pull those measurements for you, but I just did a quick test fit of the front end. I wouldn't put any confidence behind any of my measurements. I do have a zip file that Leslie from this forum sent me. It has a TON of good info in it that might help you. PM me your email and I'll forward it over.

I can say, though, that tab on the core support seems to be getting in your way. On my inner fenders that tab shoots straight out which makes lining up the outer fender much easier (should be pictures in here somehwhere, if not, i'll upload some when I find them). I'm also using the stock core support and locating it with new body mounts and brackets.

Oh, almost forgot to show ya'll my new tailgate latch handle ;D

 

plumbdoctor

Full Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
346
Loc.
Golden
I am dealing with the same demons you are right now! Can you do me a favor and take a shot of your core support where it meets the inner fender? I don't know how far out the lower inner fender comes out past the core support. Also a measurement from where the inner fender and the door kick meets up to the core support, I feel like mine is a bit long. Thanks!!

FYI the door latch pillar and the tail light pillar may need to be trimmed down a bit to get all the metal to line up. I had to trim everything about 1/8 inch or so off all the edges to get everything to line up. Especially an issue when you put on the tail light housings....


FWIW, Every one I have installed has run a bit long at the bottom,
 
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
FWIW, Every one I have installed has run a bit long at the bottom,

Now that I think about it the bottom was a bit long on mine too. I remember thinking "that doesn't look right".

I did in fact cut those tabs off of the core support. They were in the way and I noticed they were also on the inner fenders but pointing straight out. Now that I look at it though I don't see how the outer fender would fit over it. I'll figure that out later. I was just making sure my door>fender gap wasn't too far off.

Here are a few pics from when I test fit mine originally and a few measurement diagrams I got from JAFO on here a while back.

 
Last edited:
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
It's about time for an update. I've been on a bit of a hiatus on account of some cold weather here in va beach. Even with a one car garage and 8' ceilings, it's hard to heat and stay motivated in 8 degree weather haha. However, I have taken some big deliveries and chipped away at some semi fine tuning on the body.

AXLES CAME IN!!
Finally took delivery of the freshly rebuilt 9" and Dana 44 from Bronco Connection. Unfortunately, I haven't received a build sheet with part numbers from Sam so I can't say exactly what's in them. Honestly, I was hoping for a little bit better customer service from a fellow Bronco guy/company, especially considering the cost we paid up front. I will say they look great, seem to be well built and to the specs on the website. The true test will be on the road, but that's a ways away. If you want details on my experience with them feel free to PM me. Here are the specs we agreed on:

4.10 Gears (couldn't get an answer if they use a thick gear in the 9" or not, waiting on a build sheet)
Rear Posi
Trac Loc in the Dana
28 Spline axles (mostly just a highway cruiser, I hope this doesn't come back and bite me).
4 wheel disc brakes

 
Last edited:
OP
OP
C

callmemarsh

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
157
BRACING UP THE REAR TUB
After redoing a couple things and squaring up the four "filler" panels in each corner I went ahead and braced up the rear tub. Now all I have to do is remove the screws holding the rear tub to the front platform and move/store them separately. Also, in theory, when I go to put it back on I should be able to set my door gaps exactly where I want them and create my new body mount holes in the frame (since I repaired the frame where the original body mounts were). Key words there: In Theory. The good news is both doors and the tail gate open and close like a dream. Excuse the sloppy brace job. I have to work with the steel I have. It'll hold...for a while ;D

 
Last edited:

Crawdad

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
3,635
Looking great! I look forward to bitching about my tub this coming fall. It looks so fun! Keep up the good work.
Matt
 

STalon89

Full Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2016
Messages
305
Looking good! Ive had similar weather up here. My garage heater cant keep up.
 
Top