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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Here's my 4 link numbers...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's some mock up with PVC
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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While I'm waiting I ripped the Atlas out and started working on getting the 205 ready!

Dropping the Atlas today and have the 205 stripped for "fitting"...tape measure says I have an 1/8" of clearance between it and the frame...hope it's right!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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205 is getting closer... check out the SIZE of those TEETH on the 205 compared to that toy sized D20!! ;). Notice the stripped gear on the D20. After wasting 4 D20 cases, an output shaft till I upgraded to 300 M, and this gear that's missing some teeth...I'm not going to miss it!!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Got the 205 in after rebuilding it...installed new cables that were under warranty from NWFab for my triple shifter. Noticed I only had an inch for shift throw and Jon from JB Fab hooked me up!! Thanks Jon!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Forgot to post up that I pulled the KluneV apart as I was upgrading to a 4130 chrome moly main shaft to handle the Stroker abuse... it is the slickest dang unit out there!! Only 6+" long, good for 1500ft lbs of torque, rotate to almost ANY position making clocking your t-case outputs "almost" enjoyable ( I'll explain why it wasn't next"!!!)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Some might think I'm nuts for dumping the Atlas but here's the numbers...

I'm just too low geared and I use the KluneV now to get my wheel speed up for sand and snow. If I only had the Atlas I'd severely limit what I can do now with the doubler...so, sell the Atlas to finance the build...

This what I have now: w/37"s
2.84x2.72x4.3x4.56= 151 crawl ratio downhill (locked TC) ...add in my TC x2.4 = 363:1 when crawling...bit overkill

I've never engaged the Atlas 4.3. The auto is so different than the ZF/203/D20 gear selection I had for 12yrs...


What I will have with the 205: w/37"s
2.84x2.72x1.96x4.56= 69:1 crawl ratio downhill (locked TC)... add in TC x 2.4= 165 when crawling...just right

What I will have when the 60 is finally in up front w/40"s
2.84x2.72x1.96x5.13= 77:1 crawl ratio downhill (locked TC)... add in TC x 2.4 = 186 when crawling...plenty low.. should be great... I can run for hi-speed stuff now in 4Hi in the 205...
 

RADO

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I was surprised to read you were dumping the atlas, but the future crawl numbers definitely seem more usable. I can't imagine ever wanting to use 363:1

You're going to love the 4-link & ORIs! I built a similar set-up on a previous rig and the suspension functioned amazing. I ended up playing with the ORI pressures quite a bit and found I had a streetable rig at 175PSI/400PSI. If I dropped the lower pressure to 100PSI, rocks turned into squishy clouds that I would just roll over gently. ORIs are quite the product! ;D
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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RADO---Thanks for the positive feedback on the ORI's...I've been following their technology for about a decade and when they stepped up to the STX, that's when I thought they would work for my type of wheeling (do everything rig)!

Can't wait to get rolling again...bought it in '76 and it's NEVER been out of commission for this long...for decades it was THE daily driver...no Bronco, no work that day!

This pic is north of Knaab Utah, 6,000+ mile ,6 week camping trip with the family back in Oct of '84. Lost two wheel brgs on that trip! Cruised over Engineers and Cinnamon Pass. Ended up in Gunison, replacing the second wheel brg.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I had the Atlas tucked up pretty good but I spent a lot of time clocking the 205 and THEN I found this!!! WTHeck happened here!!???

My driveline cleared my range sensor on my 4r70w just fine with the Atlas...I tuck the 205 in place, ready to move on and just happened to stick my head thru the hole in the floor and saw THIS!! CRAP!

This is a bad angle and I spent 40 minutes and all I found was this pic, but when I clocked the 205 so far over it "re-located" the driveshaft towards the 4r70w so much that the DS was now going to be directly under the shift linkage and range sensor! no joke...no way to get around it other than re-clocking the 205 so it was time to put the D60 in that I had for several years ... I had time because the rear end housing was bad also...things weren't going real well this week!
 

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nvrstuk

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This was a real blow when I figured this out. I was done welding. brackets on, prepping the housing for the ARB air line, and the TruHi 9 had a small clearance issue and when I set the 3rd. member in place it had a g a p!!

Yes, the housing was warped and defective. I had not bought it new but from an ex-employee who never used it. Dan at RuffStuff took care of it along with all the brackets that had been welded on...couldn't believe he was going to care of it...so I had about a month for a new one to be built so it was time to rip out the D44 and time to install the D60.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Reputation, customer service and quality of work is amazing as the new housings have been redesigned and obviously don't have any issues that the old ones did! Great company RS is.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Well, I've got to at least start thinking about exhaust routing... any issue but heat? In this location there's 1 1/2" above it for 2 heat shields and that's after I lower the floor 2"...Did I mention I'm lowering the floors?, tons of room to run exhaust on top of the frame. Obviously this isn't the exact location but the block of wood freed up a hand to take the pic. I know...I need one on the other side too. ;) I'm raising the floor on the pass side 2" and lowering it behind the seat. Lots to do...

Couldn't find the pic but there's some below...
 
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nvrstuk

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Here is mock up with a 22" bodied muffler and a shot of one of my 14" Magnaflo's. (equivalent to open headers almost with the stroker- fine with the 351W). I was basically looking to see if they would fit...

I will post pics of what I end up with for exhaust... and how I had to modify my shorty headers also...

building ORI mounts today for the front
 

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nvrstuk

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The other possible spot is on the outside of the frame rail between the ORI (mounted behind the axle) and the diagonal cage/rock ski tie in seen in the pic above... should allow about a 20" long body...I would powder coat it so in two years it wouldn't look like an ugly exhaust pipe and muffler... black to help it disappear maybe... just options... just noticed in these pics I had a front end attached to the rig! Now I have a D60 "parked" under it... lol
 
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nvrstuk

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BUSY... Has anybody noticed that a D60 is HUGE! : )

Goal: D60 install- narrowed to 65" WMS or less
- stuffed! I want 6" of uptravel with 16" ORI's
- stuffed! I want it to fit with less than 3 1/2" of suspension lift

So the D60 was previously narrowed 6" on the pass side only, the pumpkin hits about 5" of the oil pan when centered under the frame... : (

So it looks like I need to narrow the DS and add tube on the PS. After stuffing, measuring, determining what I want for WMS (mainly how much tire I want out of the wheel well) I really hate mud flying inside on the dash/gauges/me/wife/ etc so I'm trying to keep this as narrow as possible and still allow FULL lock to lock turns with 40" tires....that ended up being the hardest part!

Here I'm measuring to see how much I have to narrow the driver side to able to stuff the pumpkin between the differential, the motor mount and the frame. I ended up cutting off 2 1/2 inches and leaving just enough width to be able to weld on the radius arm mount

Here is a CB Link I had running simultaneously to a mini "help me" thread I started trying to find a way to make the D60 fit... https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275875
 

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nvrstuk

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More pics of the measuring and ... measuring... here I'm trying different widths because it's common to install a full width for stability and tire clearance and end up with 3-4" of up travel but it's a TON of extra work to narrow it and not lift the Bronco up with a 5 1/2" suspension lift in order to acheive 6" of uptravel. Going for low COG (and easier for my wife to climb into-hence the 2" lowering of the floor boards also)

One of these shows the interference with the driveshaft and the 4r70w shift linkage and range sensor I mentioned earlier... that has a head banger!! If I'd left the D44 in it would have been a real hassle fixing the clearance issue w/o losing ground clearance.

Here is the 4x4x2 box that I will move back 9" or more and convert it back to a stock '78 F150 box and have the pitman facing forward to give the tire room to turn. With 37"s you can see the shiny spot where it rubs already! Another 1 1/2" of tire and your turning radius would be approaching a SuperDuty!! :(
 

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nvrstuk

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Here's where I am at today. I will post the other building specs and measurements as I go but I'm excited that the Dana 60 is holding the bronco up and everything clears – - ...

The DOM tubing is 1.5" x .188" wall. I decided to step up due to the fact that they extend 24" above the frame rail...that is a long ways. I will build a cross tie over the engine somewhere and will eventually tie them into the front end that will need to be tubed since there isn't any body mounts, inner fenders or much of anything else to support the radiator, fenders, etc.
 

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nvrstuk

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Pictures of the rig with the tires on!!

--one is ride height (w/o any weight on the tires they should come down some) and the second one is with full stuff and you can see that I still need to do some more clearancing. Lot of up travel happening!
 
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