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- Sep 26, 2009
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I'd just replace the pickup (easy job) and any other harness wires on the engine that don't look good and keep on trucking. ;D
I had to look twice, but I don't think that the reluctor is missing a lobe. It's just blending into the background in the pic.
And since I didn't see it listed, the way that I R&R these parts:
Easiest way that I've found to lift the reluctor off is to use two big flat blade screw-drivers. Mark the reluctor orientation first. It shouldn't matter, but play it safe. Place the tips under the webs of the reluctor opposite of each other and gently push down on the screw-driver handles. DO NOT PRY ON THE LOBES! Typically after a little initial resistance they come right up. Maybe 1 in 10 needs a little soaking with PB Blaster. Be Sure To Capture the Tiny Roll Pin in the matching grooves on the ID of the reluctor and the OD of the shaft.
Next is the pick-up assembly. Remove the two screws that hold the vacuum advance unit to the dist body. Then there is a tiny 'E' clip that holds the vacuum advance pull-rod to the pick-up assembly. Remove it and put it somewhere safe. I like to put both it and the tiny roll pin on a magnet so they aren't likely to go flying if bumped. Fish the advance arm off the pin and out of the body.
Lastly there is a tiny round wire ring in an OD groove that holds the pick-up assembly to the base plate. Sometimes these are easy to see, sometimes not. Either way gently pry it out of the groove and remove it. With some wiggling to shear off the dried grease the pick-up assembly should lift straight up. One of the base plate screws holds the ground tab sticking out of the grommet down to the body. Remove it and the pick-up assembly should be clear.
Reassembly is the reverse. I use a moly wheel bearing grease on the pick-up assembly pivot. It doesn't take much, fill the grooves on the base plate piece and that's enough. If the felt in the very center under the rotor is still there give it a squirt or two of engine oil.
...Before I removed it, I rotated the motor to 10 degrees before TDC. Then I marked the rotor position. It appears that is about 180 degrees of of phase with the #1 plug.
The rotor is face the opposite direction. There is only one set of timing marks on the balancer. Not sure what all that means???
Looks like I can replace the pick up coil. Anyone have a videos or photos showing removal and installation?
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Yep, that's one of the things I was thinking of.
Easy to check with the air cleaner off. Just poke your head down the carb (engine off of course!) and manipulate the throttle. You should see a reasonably good strong squirt of gas as soon as you start pushing. The faster you push, the more you should see.
Another thing is vacuum leaks of course. They happen at a moment's notice, but would have to be pretty big to bog down the engine. Most of the time they make themselves noticed by a rough idle for small ones. Really rough for larger ones. And only the big ones will usually make your engine bog on acceleration.
But if your air/fuel mixture is lean already, it would not take as big a leak to make things act up.
The wrong PCV valve has been known to lean out a mix enough to do it. I had it happen once and it was wildly noticeable.
Incorrect ignition timing is another. Coupled with using full manifold vacuum for the advance mechanism can sometimes do it. Except when it's supposed to have full vacuum that is.
It's ok to use full vacuum, and your '77 would likely have come that way originally in all it's smog-reduced glory. But sometimes it will act like this if everything else isn't dialed in just right.
You said you messed with the timing and it didn't help, so I guess that could rule out the base timing. But where is your vacuum advance connected to? Is it still original with all it's tubing running through multiple locations and little disc-like vacuum reducers and multi-ported thermal switching valves? Or does the vacuum hose run straight to the carburetor?
And last of course is just too lean (small jet size) but that would not have changed by itself if you didn't do it. And since you didn't mess with the carburetor it sounds like(?) we can stick with ignition timing and vacuum leaks for now.
One test to rule out the PCV valve though, would be to cap it off and drive it. If the bog goes away, perhaps you have the wrong valve installed. Could easily have been changed in a previous tune-up and overlooked.
I'm assuming in all this that you changed the orientation of the distributor from the last discussions of being 180 out?
What about the damper? Did you change it? If so, before you installed it did you compare the timing marks to your old one?
Paul
I will check the accelerator pump as you noted, thanks for that. The vacuum advance is connected directly to the carburetor. When I changed the pick up coil, I replaced it exactly as it was, marked the distributor and aligned it exactly like it was. Probably a good idea to get the timing light out to double check the timing. I did not replace the damper.
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I finally had a chance to get a look down into the carburetor and was able to see 2 streams of fuel squirting into the carburetor. Any thoughts on the next steps?
Thanks again for the information.
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...When I changed the pick up coil, I replaced it exactly as it was, marked the distributor and aligned it exactly like it was. Probably a good idea to get the timing light out to double check the timing.
I did not replace the damper.
I finally had a chance to get a look down into the carburetor and was able to see 2 streams of fuel squirting into the carburetor. Any thoughts on the next steps?
I also did a quick check of the vacuum advance by sucking on the hose, it pulled and held. Should I check to make sure the carb is creating vacuum? If so what is the best way?