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Old 09/15/18, 11:35 AM   #16
DirtDonk
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If you need the thing charging today, just connect the green wire to the ignition-on source and run around to test it. That way we know everything works before you mess with a custom circuit.

But otherwise, yes, you connect one side of the lamp to the power source (ignition switch) and the other side to the regulator's green w/red wire. Hence the "in-line" designation.
I'm not really sure if you have to do anything odd for an LED vs an old incandescent bulb though, so wait for an electrical expert to chime in with a better description.

The trick to long term success though is to run the "bypass" that I described before.
This allows the alternator to keep charging even if the bulb burns out. Doesn't matter if it's an LED or a regular bulb, once it burns out it no longer passes current through it to reach the alternator to tell it to turn on.
The bypass needs a resistor in it of such a value as to be more resistance than the bulb, but not so much it will lower voltage at the Green wire by any substantial amount. You only want it bypassing if the bulb burns out. Electricity always follows the easiest path, so a little additional resistance is what keeps the light lit when the key is on and the engine not running. Or when the alternator stops working.

Yes, you may have a volt gauge to keep track of that system, but a light sure makes it easier to take notice when it stops charging.

Good luck.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 09/15/18, 05:42 PM   #17
gr8scott
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510 Ohms based on this diagram I got from an old post.
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File Type: gif 3G-ALT_wiring.gif (11.7 KB, 16 views)

'74 U152 | 302 | C4 | D20 Twin Sticks | PS | Front discs + Hydro | MSD 8352/6A | Centech Wiring | 3G 130A | Detroit Lockers
Edelbrock AVS2 | TFS Twisted Wedge | 3.5" SL | 31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek MT's | US Wheel Indy Slots
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Old 09/15/18, 07:04 PM   #18
zerostar2410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8scott View Post
510 Ohms based on this diagram I got from an old post.
not sure what that means. New to wiring and still learning how to read electrical diagrams. 510 Ohms?

1972 Bronco, 3.5"SL James Duff, 2"bl, 5.0 EFI, 4r70w, D20, Hydroboost, DB/PS, 4x4x2
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Old 09/15/18, 10:41 PM   #19
gr8scott
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Something like this:
https://vetco.net/products/510-ohm-1...SABEgKA4PD_BwE
It bypasses the lamp in case it blows, keeping the alternator on so it can keep charging. I think you have to use a
regular bulb as current has to flow through it. Don't think LEDs work that way. But as Paul said, don't worry about a charge light just yet.
Connect those green wires and make sure your alternator is doing what it should.
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File Type: jpg resitor.jpg (36.6 KB, 11 views)

'74 U152 | 302 | C4 | D20 Twin Sticks | PS | Front discs + Hydro | MSD 8352/6A | Centech Wiring | 3G 130A | Detroit Lockers
Edelbrock AVS2 | TFS Twisted Wedge | 3.5" SL | 31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek MT's | US Wheel Indy Slots
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Old 09/16/18, 03:25 PM   #20
zerostar2410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8scott View Post
Something like this:
https://vetco.net/products/510-ohm-1...SABEgKA4PD_BwE
It bypasses the lamp in case it blows, keeping the alternator on so it can keep charging. I think you have to use a
regular bulb as current has to flow through it. Don't think LEDs work that way. But as Paul said, don't worry about a charge light just yet.
Connect those green wires and make sure your alternator is doing what it should.
Green wires connected. Everything working and charging. Bronco on and reading at 14.4V.

Now need to get the charging lamp working with the resistor. So each side of the resistor is connected to each side of the lights wiring and into the green wire?

1972 Bronco, 3.5"SL James Duff, 2"bl, 5.0 EFI, 4r70w, D20, Hydroboost, DB/PS, 4x4x2
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Old 09/16/18, 06:20 PM   #21
DirtDonk
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Correct. It literally bypasses the bulb. It's a "jumper" wire effectively, but because of the slightly higher resistance than the bulb itself, the light bulb is what creates the circuit.
Because electricity literally takes the path of least resistance (most likely the origin of that phrase) it ignores the bypass completely until such time as the bulb filament burns out.

I'm guessing that they use LED's in new vehicles, but that the computer controls it maybe? Some other version of this circuit to keep the same function but with an LED? Not sure how that works.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 09/16/18, 10:37 PM   #22
gr8scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerostar2410 View Post
Green wires connected. Everything working and charging. Bronco on and reading at 14.4V.

Now need to get the charging lamp working with the resistor. So each side of the resistor is connected to each side of the lights wiring and into the green wire?
Good to hear its working. I just use my voltmeter to monitor my alternator. 14V, good. 12V, not good

'74 U152 | 302 | C4 | D20 Twin Sticks | PS | Front discs + Hydro | MSD 8352/6A | Centech Wiring | 3G 130A | Detroit Lockers
Edelbrock AVS2 | TFS Twisted Wedge | 3.5" SL | 31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek MT's | US Wheel Indy Slots
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