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77 Bronco - Build In The Works

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rguest3

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The Transmission and Transfer Case was dropped off yesterday to be rebuilt. Should be complete by end of week.

I drained all fluids, removed Radiator, Engine, Power Brake Booster and MC and Accelerator Linkage. I also pulled all the wires into the dash area and pulled out the heater assembly as well. Busy day....
 
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rguest3

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I cut the Passenger Side inner Fender and laid it back over itself. The Coyote Installed pretty easily and the only issue, really, is the Oil filter is angled and Very close to the frame mount.

I also Mocked-Up the Inline Power Brake Bracket which needed some minor trimming to fit,but the clearance is great and looks good.

I only have the WH 1" Body Lift Installed. The stock Hood Front Brace does touch the front of the engine cover. I'll probably go with an aftermarket Hood with additional clearance.
 

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rguest3

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I Mocked-Up most of the Hydroboost today. Lines should look pretty clean and fairly easy to get to if needed.

I also got the fuel line to regulator done. I considered going with Rubber EFI line at the engine, but the stainless 3/8" matched the factory Fuel Rails.

I ordered the BC Serpentine system which, they said, should go out this week. They were waiting on the Alternators for the kit. Hopefully, it is a direct install without any clearance issues. I will install when it arrives to confirm.

The engine that I chose has all the vacuum and coolant lines included. I will have to "T" most of the Vacuum lines to clean them up and to work correctly.
 

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GStaudt

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Hey, just saw this thread. Congrats on the nice Bronco. I have a Coyote swapped Bronco that I've been driving for going on two years. Let me know if you have any questions. If I don't know, I'll always be able to take a picture for you to reference.
 
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rguest3

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GStaudt - If you could post pictures and Bronco specific Coyote parts used in my "Coyote Parts List" thread, I will add your info on post #1. Thanks
 
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rguest3

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I got the Ford Control Pack and the BC Serpentine System in today. Felt like an early Christmas!

The BC serpentine system seems to be pretty straight forward install with only one slight modification for one tensioner to work correctly. Alternator will remain on the passenger side and Power Steering Pump will remain on driver's side, same as original.

The Ford Control Pack only requires Four (4) wires from the chassis harness to install.
Constant Hot - Fused B+
Start - Original wire to Starter Solenoid
Ignition - Original wire to Distributor +
Fuel Pump - Direct to Electric Fuel Pump +

All the Relays and Fuses are in the Control Pack Distribution Box.

The only issue is that the wire harness is REALLY L O N G! Some wiring does not apply and will be taken out. Other wires will be unwrapped and shortened to fit cleaner. Will take some time, but no big deal.

The complete Control Pack is pictured. Some items will NOT be used for this install.
 

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I got the Ford Control Pack Harness mocked-up this evening.

Because the harness from the Power Distribution Box to the Computer is so long and I will have to fold it up to shorten it, I did take some wiring out that is not needed. I also removed the Alternator wires because these will be included in the Chassis Harness. I will use the Control Pack starter wires, Fuse and Relays.

Here is a picture of the Control Pack Harness and Engine Harness plugged into the Computer and placement of the Power Distribution Box. I really wanted to put the Computer inside the passenger compartment, but I am limited to where it can go because the engine harness plugs in to it as well. Should be fairly clean as is, but can be moved if needed. Nothing permanent yet.
 

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rguest3

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Here is the Loomed Control Pack Harness. It Cleaned up pretty good.

The wires in the passenger compartment also lined up well with the location for the Accelerator Pedal and Data Port.
 

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rguest3

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I have been concentrating on getting my 69 Completed, so this one has had minimal work done the last few weeks. i'll be back on it soon.

Everything has just been mocked-up so far. Next is tear it all down, refurbish and build as I go.
 
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rguest3

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I ordered a new Powermaster starter for the Coyote Motor. Part number 9132. It's fully clockable, So, very easy to rotate the Solenoid Location to help clear frame. I also spoke with BC and they will be sending back my Modified Mustang headers soon.

I'll test fit both when they get in and give an update.

I added up ALL the parts needed that are specific to the Coyote Build. I ordered the BC parts in particular because there are no modifications to the frame.

Coyote 5.oL - 2016 Mustang Engine with 20K Miles - 5000
Control Pack M-6017-504V 1500
Motor Mounts BC-15-00731 250
Headers - Modified Mustang Manifolds 550
Serpentine System BC-15-00151 1400
Oil Filter Angled Adaptor 250
Air Intake BC-11-80230 300
Radiator Hoses BC-12-36301 50
Heater Hose Kit BC-12-86031 42
Stock Gauge Kit BC-72-60031 85
Oil Filter Motorcraft - 500S 10
Starter Powermaster - 9132 169

Total For All Parts 9606

HMMM. The info was in nice columns when i typed it. You get the idea.

If you compare this Coyote build (10K for everything in my case) to a nice 351W with EFI and GT-40 Intake (About 8K) it's not that much more expensive. A new Ford Coyote Crate Motor would add about 2K to my Coyote build.
 
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rguest3

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Here is a look at the 9132 PowerMaster Coyote Starter that just came in. As you can see the mounting base is "clockable" so you can rotate the Solenoid to just about any position you want. Simple, remove the 3 allen head bolts, rotate as needed, re-install bolts. There is a shim included as well if needed.

I clocked this one so the Solenoid is straight up. Plenty of clearance form frame and headers.

It is smaller than stock, can handle up to 11:1 Compression and was purchased direct from PowerMaster.
 

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BigB

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I ordered a new Powermaster starter for the Coyote Motor. Part number 9132. It's fully clockable, So, very easy to rotate the Solenoid Location to help clear frame. I also spoke with BC and they will be sending back my Modified Mustang headers soon.

I'll test fit both when they get in and give an update.

I added up ALL the parts needed that are specific to the Coyote Build. I ordered the BC parts in particular because there are no modifications to the frame.

Coyote 5.oL - 2016 Mustang Engine with 20K Miles - 5000
Control Pack M-6017-504V 1500
Motor Mounts BC-15-00731 250
Headers - Modified Mustang Manifolds 550
Serpentine System BC-15-00151 1400
Oil Filter Angled Adaptor 250
Air Intake BC-11-80230 300
Radiator Hoses BC-12-36301 50
Heater Hose Kit BC-12-86031 42
Stock Gauge Kit BC-72-60031 85
Oil Filter Motorcraft - 500S 10
Starter Powermaster - 9132 169

Total For All Parts 9606

HMMM. The info was in nice columns when i typed it. You get the idea.

If you compare this Coyote build (10K for everything in my case) to a nice 351W with EFI and GT-40 Intake (About 8K) it's not that much more expensive. A new Ford Coyote Crate Motor would add about 2K to my Coyote build.

Great thread and documentation....Thanks!

Are there any extras associated or are you done and driving for $10K? Don't mean gears etc just the swap.
 
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rguest3

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The 10K is for the Coyote specific parts only.

As you can see from the pictures, the truck is totally stripped down and taken apart. I am just in the Mock-Up stage. This will be a frame-off restoration in addition to..
 

STalon89

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Make sure you located the vin if you need to while you've got everything out. Im trying to find it now after coating the frame and installing everything. Kicking myself in the ass.
 

sprdv1

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The 10K is for the Coyote specific parts only.

As you can see from the pictures, the truck is totally stripped down and taken apart. I am just in the Mock-Up stage. This will be a frame-off restoration in addition to..

I know you can't wait... :)
 
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rguest3

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VIN is located just behind passenger wheel well and easily seen. Didn't even have to scratch for it.. FL required VIN verification for Title.

I'll leave it accessible for future viewing if needed.
 
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rguest3

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Jamie - That was my question for this build too. I have done a few 351Ws with great success, but wanted to do something different. Yes, overall it may be a few K more expensive, but not that much more.

If you stick with the BC Broncos parts, you will not have to modify the frame, and it's fairly straight forward from there. I have mocked-up EVERYTHING first, then will strip down for restoration of the complete Bronco.
 

Jamie Chriss

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Feb 28, 2015
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Very motivating build! I am just finishing my tub, new frame came today, so I am getting itchy fingers to get going. I think I want to go this route, can I ask why doss't anyone use manual transmissions on these Coyote builds? I see you went with a Mustang motor over the F150 was that due to availability?

PS I really like how you have laid out the parts and money spent it is very helpful.
 
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