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Old 09/18/07, 01:56 PM   #1
Baja71
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Door alignment questions

Ok, prior to rebuilding hinges, I want to make sure everything is in align to see how bad the hinges really are. When I look at the reveal along the windshield to door frame, I notice that on both sides the gap closes at the top. The bottom is about 1/4"-3/8th, but at the top the windshield actually touches or almost touches the door window frame. The windshield gasket on the bottom looks OK (not squished too much). Should I align the windshield more vertical by sliding the hard top forward or does the windshield have only one position? How much leeway is there in sliding the hard top around in it's bolt holes?

thanks,
tw

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Old 09/18/07, 03:06 PM   #2
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I'm not a body man, but I would be more concerned about getting the gaps straight between the body and the door. Then move the hard top forward/back to get the windshield lined up with the door frame. On my Bronco there seems to be a lot of leeway in lining up the top.

That's how John Wayne would do it.
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Old 09/18/07, 03:54 PM   #3
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The quarter panel and the door seem fine, so does the door and the rocker reveal. I'll worry about the fenders last. I was looking at the backwards slant on the windshield which is not even and is closed at the top. It seems like the gap should be even all the way up. Yes? Is the slant on the windshield adjustable with either the dash bolts or the hard top leading edge bolts?

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Old 09/18/07, 05:14 PM   #4
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Check the body mounts that are right under your feet. You might have some body sagosis. If the floor boards are compromised by rust that cross member support looses its box structure and it will sag causing the door opening to get smaller at the top. I learned the hard way that you have to correct this before welding in new floor panels.
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Old 09/18/07, 05:25 PM   #5
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No rust, but the body mounts are original. I have some poly ones standing by for the frame off, soon.

I found no way to move the top forward as the posts in the back were forward in the holes and pretty solidly bolted in place. Not much wiggle room. Also, there are what look like locating pins on the bedrails?

At any rate, the top seemed to be positioned correctly. I loosened the header bolts on top of the windshield and pushed forward on the very top of the windshield frame as I tightened the corner bolt. Once on each side. That gave me a better reveal on the top of both sides. The driver's door closes easier, but not without some effort. I think both door posts are slightly high but it looks like I need an impact driver to loosen those big screws.

I had the whole hardtop unbolted. If I'd have had a hoist, it would be hanging from the ceiling right now!

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Old 09/18/07, 05:30 PM   #6
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Try putting a couple of floor jacks under the body on the cross members as far out as possible. Put a little force them and see it the openings square up. Don't go nuts and bend anything. Measure the opening width top and bottem between front and rear quarters.
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Old 09/19/07, 08:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
Try putting a couple of floor jacks under the body on the cross members as far out as possible. Put a little force them and see it the openings square up. Don't go nuts and bend anything. Measure the opening width top and bottem between front and rear quarters.
Hey Dave, thanks for the response. When closed, the reveals on the door body itself are good & square to the quarter panel, rocker, fenders, even the hard top, so that just left the slope of the windshield to deal with. The windshield slope did not follow parallel to the door window frames when the doors were closed. I pushed the windshield forward, now I think if I adjust the door posts, I will be fine until I replace the hinges. I need to go out and buy an impact driver, I think, to loosen the door posts.

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Old 09/20/07, 09:12 PM   #8
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God help you!

'77. 2" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" tires. 302, Windsor Jr heads, 4bbl, headers. NV3550, 4.11s, Yukon posi.
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Old 09/21/07, 06:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blubuckaroo View Post
God help you!
um...thanks? I.....guess....?

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Old 09/21/07, 09:15 AM   #10
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What you may want to consider, if you have a front cage, is to use some shackles or other means to gusset the windshield to the front upper tube. In your case, it would need to go back (toward the front) probably less than 1/8" to fix the gap issue you have. If your fenders are square with the door...the sag is either in your cowl or your hinge...that is, if I understand your lack-o-gap between the windshield and the upper door frame. Keep in mind, it is a almost 40 yo truck...things sag and besides, they never fit perfect from the factory.
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Old 09/21/07, 01:06 PM   #11
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I have the same problem on my 66 and to me it seems more like the upper door frame is the problem. Check the reveal at the latch side between the door frame and the top to see if they are parallel.

My cousin had one just like that----but his was better
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Old 09/21/07, 07:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Boring66 View Post
I have the same problem on my 66 and to me it seems more like the upper door frame is the problem. Check the reveal at the latch side between the door frame and the top to see if they are parallel.
They are. Really, everything was in line except the windshield when the doors are closed and latched.

Now, I know the hinges are worn, but I was going to cheat by lowering the striker plate a touch until I get the nerve up to remove the hinges and rebuild them. I'm just dreading ripping a head off the hinge bolt and having to torch the paint.

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Old 09/21/07, 07:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailpsycho View Post
What you may want to consider, if you have a front cage, is to use some shackles or other means to gusset the windshield to the front upper tube. In your case, it would need to go back (toward the front) probably less than 1/8" to fix the gap issue you have. If your fenders are square with the door...the sag is either in your cowl or your hinge...that is, if I understand your lack-o-gap between the windshield and the upper door frame. Keep in mind, it is a almost 40 yo truck...things sag and besides, they never fit perfect from the factory.
It's got the Stroppe Deluxe bar (without a front cage). I loosened the header bolts on the hard top/windshield, pushed the top of the windshield forward and re-tightened the bolts. I may be OK. Maybe that bottom rubber seal is squished too much. I think it's original.

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Old 09/22/07, 10:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja71 View Post
um...thanks? I.....guess....?
I'm not being sarcastic! What I ment was that adjusting these doors can be a royal pain! I can think of a lot of more pleasant tasks.
What i've done is to put the hinges and strikers on and hang the door with all the bolts semi-tight. Use a mallat to adjust the hinges and striker to work properly then tighten everything up. A floor jack and a block of wood is handy to force the door up and make small adjustments. Some obstacles to look out for are worn out body mounts and the wrong thickness of top & door gaskets.

'77. 2" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" tires. 302, Windsor Jr heads, 4bbl, headers. NV3550, 4.11s, Yukon posi.
Vintage Air, Pioneer tunes, Toms seats.
All the comforts!
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Old 09/22/07, 11:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blubuckaroo View Post
I'm not being sarcastic! What I ment was that adjusting these doors can be a royal pain! I can think of a lot of more pleasant tasks.
What i've done is to put the hinges and strikers on and hang the door with all the bolts semi-tight. Use a mallat to adjust the hinges and striker to work properly then tighten everything up. A floor jack and a block of wood is handy to force the door up and make small adjustments. Some obstacles to look out for are worn out body mounts and the wrong thickness of top & door gaskets.
I knew what you meant! That's why I'm on here gathering information instead of sweating and cussing in the garage.

1971Stroppe Baja

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