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Old 04/08/10, 11:12 AM   #1
Heus33
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How to install a one wire 3G Alternator

I've waded through a lot of posts and had a lot of questions on how to wire my alternator. Its WAY easier that I thought it would be - here's my experience on my 76 351W.

Purchased a 105A 1 wire alternator from quality power (http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17). Make sure you get the correct pulley (I needed a serpentine pulley).

You'll also need some 4ga wire (I used long battery cable wire from the local parts store), a 175a mega fuse and a fuse holder.

Disconnect your batteyr and remove the old alternator. You can also remove the voltage regulator and associated wiring. See first pic for the "stuff" that I removed.

Next, wire up your fuse to the positive side of your starter solenoid, then run that wire to the red post on the alternator.

Don't forget to cut the old harness (pic 2) and run the black/yellow wire to the positive side of the starter solenoid so you retain power to your fuse panel. Pics three and four shows how I wired my setup. The other wires from the harness are not used and can be taped off. ** You will lose the use of your ammeter with this setup **

Thats it. Hook up your belts and you're good to go. Way easier that I thought it would be. Should take about 30-45 min if everything goes as planned. Might be a good idea to replace your old worn out battery cables as well.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg items removed.jpg (156.7 KB, 285 views)
File Type: jpg Old wire harness.jpg (127.6 KB, 282 views)
File Type: jpg fender wire mount.jpg (159.2 KB, 284 views)
File Type: jpg fender wire mount 2.jpg (158.8 KB, 303 views)
File Type: jpg front of alt.jpg (144.8 KB, 274 views)
File Type: jpg back of alt.jpg (114.0 KB, 298 views)

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Old 04/08/10, 11:25 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heus33 View Post
Don't forget to cut the old harness (pic 2) and run the black/yellow wire to the positive side of the starter solenoid so you retain power to your fuse panel.
You should really have a fusible link between this wire and the solenoid. If the old black-red wire is still in place on the solenoid it may have the fusible link still. If that's the case the black-yellow wire can be eliminated or you can connect it to the black-red wire on the firewall side of the existing fusible link.

74 Sport U151, 5.0 must-plorer EFI, C4, PS, front discs, twin sticks, 3.5" susp/1" body, 33's, 4.11's, ARBs, Hickey Sidewinder, cobra hydroboost
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Old 04/08/10, 12:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viperwolf1 View Post
You should really have a fusible link between this wire and the solenoid. If the old black-red wire is still in place on the solenoid it may have the fusible link still. If that's the case the black-yellow wire can be eliminated or you can connect it to the black-red wire on the firewall side of the existing fusible link.
Interesting - why? There was never a fusible link there before. If one is needed, any recommended fuse size?

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Old 04/08/10, 12:36 PM   #4
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There should have been a 16 gauge one at the end of the black-red wire which in reality is the other end of the black-yellow wire. Think of it as a master fuse for everything inside the cab. The fusebox takes care of the most of the circuit protection but there is no protection for most of the underdash wiring without the fusible link. It's good insurance.

74 Sport U151, 5.0 must-plorer EFI, C4, PS, front discs, twin sticks, 3.5" susp/1" body, 33's, 4.11's, ARBs, Hickey Sidewinder, cobra hydroboost
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Old 04/08/10, 12:59 PM   #5
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Don't beat me up too bad but what are the main reasons for upgrading to a 3g? I've see a few threads in my short time at cb but never really paid much attention.

1974 U15 Explorer - Cut, PS, Front DB, hydroboost, Duff's 3.5 lift, 2" WH BL, 36 Irocs, 31 spline Yukon's, 4.88's, Yukon Griz lockers F/R, 6 pt Cage.
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Old 04/08/10, 01:20 PM   #6
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It's not dented, it's just been environmentally streamlined!

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Don't beat me up too bad but what are the main reasons for upgrading to a 3g? I've see a few threads in my short time at cb but never really paid much attention.
More current to run accessories, gets rid of external regulator and excess wiring, keeps voltage high at idle speeds to prevent dimming of lights.

74 Sport U151, 5.0 must-plorer EFI, C4, PS, front discs, twin sticks, 3.5" susp/1" body, 33's, 4.11's, ARBs, Hickey Sidewinder, cobra hydroboost
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Old 04/09/10, 04:30 AM   #7
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devils advocate, on the other hand if the voltage regulator goes bad you half to replace the alternator with the 3g .. but old school you only replace the reg.

1970, 302, 3 on tree, drum brakes, no power anything, original engine trans ect., 62k miles and 1976, 351w, c4, 3.5 sl, 2inch bl, pwr st and brakes, 35 mtz's, twin sticks, arb front and rear, 4.88s, 31 spline yukon,
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Old 05/31/10, 03:06 PM   #8
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going to the pull a part this weekend anyone know of a donor vehicle?
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Old 05/31/10, 06:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
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devils advocate, on the other hand if the voltage regulator goes bad you half to replace the alternator with the 3g .. but old school you only replace the reg.
Four Torx bolts on the back of the laternator and the brushes and regulator come off the 3G. Rebuilt 1000's of them, almost always reused the regulators as they are near bullet proof.

Builder of Whispering Lightning, the World's Fastest 24volt powered motorcycle. Dinosaurs made gas, and those still using it are living in the Stone Ages.
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