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Old 09/12/10, 05:22 PM   #1
cavscout68
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Nothings easy about an easy out. Easier than the alternative i guess

north pole, alaska
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Embarassed Removing Grill, Front Fenders, Inner Fenders and all supports. How to please?

Trying to remove the front end on my 71 to find and replace all rusty spots. Already know the fenders and inner fenders need to be replaced but am afraid the supports for all of that and the grill might be rusted out as well. Can anybody give me directions on how to remove all of this the right way. I've already got the top bolts out of all the fenders and the screws that are in the door post. I'm having problems with the radio antenna (sp) and the front bolts for the fenders. Anybody have any advice?
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Old 09/12/10, 05:35 PM   #2
66ALRIDE
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Soak the bolts down with PB Blaster or such. The grille bolts are a pain. You can remove the upper 3 bolts for the grille to the radiator support, and the 3 bolts for the fender to hinge post and remove the grille with the fenders. That will allow you easier access to the grille bolts. If they are rusted up too bad you will have to cut them. When you put it back together order new grille clips for the bolts.

Initial success or total failure...............
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Old 09/12/10, 10:07 PM   #3
cavscout68
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Nothings easy about an easy out. Easier than the alternative i guess

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When you say the hinge post you mean the door post that the hinges are attached to correct? If so I already have those removed and the bolts holding the top edge of the fender in place. Where are the top bolts for the grill located at? I'm sure that sounds like a dumb question. They are just the ones connecting the grill to the support plate which is connected to the radiator correct?
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Old 09/13/10, 04:12 AM   #4
HGM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavscout68 View Post
When you say the hinge post you mean the door post that the hinges are attached to correct? If so I already have those removed and the bolts holding the top edge of the fender in place. Where are the top bolts for the grill located at? I'm sure that sounds like a dumb question. They are just the ones connecting the grill to the support plate which is connected to the radiator correct?

Yea, I believe those are the ones he's refering too..

The grill bolts to the fenders through the wheel well. Those can be stubborn due to road corosion over the years. Definitly soak em good....

Greg
Nope, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night..
My '73 build
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Old 09/13/10, 05:52 AM   #5
Nightstick
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I just took mine off last week, and did it with the fenders still attached to the grille as well. I had to end up grinding off two of the bolt heads to remove the bolts because those damn clips broke and they were so rusty nothing would work... Not even PB Blaster. If you have to replace it all anyway don't waste you time fiddling with them just bust out the grinder.

'74 in progress - 351W, 4R70W, Atlas, locked with 4.56 gears, PSC ram and TRO
'69 Trail rig - NP435, NP205, D60, D70, 5.13s, locked, full hydro
Thank you veterans! SEMPER FI!!!
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Old 10/10/10, 08:02 PM   #6
cavscout68
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Nothings easy about an easy out. Easier than the alternative i guess

north pole, alaska
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alright guys sounds good thanks for the help i'll hit you back if i have more problems. with you so far nightstick, breakin clips left and right gotta love it lol. seems they always make you think they're comin off then next thing you know you're cleanin blood lol
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Old 10/11/10, 04:35 AM   #7
kboehm73
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just worked on the front right fender and I found it was pretty easy to get a grinder/cut off wheel in between the grill and the fender. All of my bolts were rusted solid, but the grinder took care of them pretty quick. Hopefully this will work for you as most above have said it would.
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Old 10/11/10, 05:57 PM   #8
greatguy57078
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I got lucky I guess. I have all the 1/2" bolts out except one which the clip broke. The last time I attempted this I got 3 bolts out, and the rest were rusted and broken clips. I never did get those philips head ones out of the door that time. This time I hope to have better luck.

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Old 11/04/10, 12:05 AM   #9
cavscout68
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Nothings easy about an easy out. Easier than the alternative i guess

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bump to top
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Old 11/04/10, 07:52 AM   #10
Nightstick
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Why'd you bump? Are you still having trouble getting them off?

'74 in progress - 351W, 4R70W, Atlas, locked with 4.56 gears, PSC ram and TRO
'69 Trail rig - NP435, NP205, D60, D70, 5.13s, locked, full hydro
Thank you veterans! SEMPER FI!!!
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Old 11/04/10, 09:40 AM   #11
scbronco
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you can remove the fenders and grill as one peice if you remove the three bolts the mount the hood latch. then you can find a better angle for the grille to fender bolts. this is how i did mine. fortunately for me i had to replace both fenders and grille anyway, so damaging them with the grinder wasnt an issue.

not all who wander are lost...

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Old 11/04/10, 09:22 PM   #12
HoosierDaddy
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If you have to ask about removing the inner fenders , core support etc , you might want to have the pros do it. They have to be measured up like a mofo , then cut them out , prep work , then the new ones are tack welded and manuvered into the proper position , then welded some more , check measurements to see how much they shifted , weld some more , etc. If not done correctly , you will never get yor body panels to line up properly and the whole thing will look like CHIT because nothing is square or parallel.

Good luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmagnet63 View Post
It must suck not to own a Bronco.
Not enough time, lift ,tires or money.
69 street rig - Exploder EFI - NV3550 coming soon (Thanks Dr.B !)
68 trail beater - 351w - NP435 - D20 - Dana 60's f&r42's - locker(f) and spooled (r) - much bondo
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Old 11/05/10, 07:10 AM   #13
Nightstick
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Hittin' Easy St on mud tires

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierDaddy View Post
If you have to ask about removing the inner fenders , core support etc , you might want to have the pros do it. They have to be measured up like a mofo , then cut them out , prep work , then the new ones are tack welded and manuvered into the proper position , then welded some more , check measurements to see how much they shifted , weld some more , etc. If not done correctly , you will never get yor body panels to line up properly and the whole thing will look like CHIT because nothing is square or parallel.

Good luck.
Hmm... Well I should have a great time replacing mine then, measuring is not my strong point, lol... I have my body on a cart at the moment, but was gonna wait to replace the inner fenders until it was back on the frame so I get everything right. If you saw how mine buckled when we pulled the body you'd know that I don't have reference point for proper measurements. That'll be fun

'74 in progress - 351W, 4R70W, Atlas, locked with 4.56 gears, PSC ram and TRO
'69 Trail rig - NP435, NP205, D60, D70, 5.13s, locked, full hydro
Thank you veterans! SEMPER FI!!!
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Old 11/06/10, 01:56 PM   #14
HoosierDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightstick View Post
If you saw how mine buckled when we pulled the body
Now that you mention it , I think I do recall that thread.

OUCH !

I also recall seeing very detailed body measurements somewhere also , from FORD , so the information is out there somewhere to get her straightened back out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmagnet63 View Post
It must suck not to own a Bronco.
Not enough time, lift ,tires or money.
69 street rig - Exploder EFI - NV3550 coming soon (Thanks Dr.B !)
68 trail beater - 351w - NP435 - D20 - Dana 60's f&r42's - locker(f) and spooled (r) - much bondo
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Old 11/06/10, 06:06 PM   #15
Nightstick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierDaddy View Post
Now that you mention it , I think I do recall that thread.

OUCH !

I also recall seeing very detailed body measurements somewhere also , from FORD , so the information is out there somewhere to get her straightened back out.
That'll be helpful

'74 in progress - 351W, 4R70W, Atlas, locked with 4.56 gears, PSC ram and TRO
'69 Trail rig - NP435, NP205, D60, D70, 5.13s, locked, full hydro
Thank you veterans! SEMPER FI!!!
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