(hopefully) buying EB soon... advice needed

I have tried the search function but it keeps saying no results found when there should be something. Also if someone knows how to tell Google to look at a specific site only please tell me and I'll go there. I know how frustrating it can be for newbies to post questions for things discussed on a forum a hundred times. Anyway...

I have recently decided that I MUST have a EB (my first) and have been looking locally and doing my homework online. (BTW, great site and a good group of people here... coming from a lurker who's been reading like mad for a few weeks now.) I have found a couple for sale in my budget in the area and want to ask a couple questions. Note: will be a DD that may occasionally see a trail or camping duty, but no serious offroad. At this point in my life I have a budget of $5k to have one the road and safe.

First, I found a 1970 priced kinda high at $4,500 that has a strong 302/C4 but a body like swiss cheese a top that worse and bald tires. I know there will always be repairs at this price, but I may not be ready to replace 70% of the panels.

Next I found what looks like a nice 1971 with a half cab (not original) in pretty decent shape. Some evident repairs but not badly done (IMHO) for what I want, with 3-4" suspension lift, 3-4" body lift (I'd have to bring this down some) and good 33s... all for $5,000... but a I6 170 3spd. It is ready to drive and safe and nice, but I'm not sure about the small engine.

As far as I know the 71 is otherwise stock (except suspension) with D30. How much will offroad capability suffer from the 170 and original gearing on 33s? Is there a direct swap to improve power with a 250 I6? Does 250 bolt pattern match bellhousing? will the 3spd still be okay?

Should I just swap to 302/C4 (prefer auto), and will D20 mate up? Are there direct match AOD/AODE to D20?

I appreciate any input and advice. Thanks for all of your help, and I hope to join the community soon.

tdkask

A quick bit of advice to help us help you, tell us your location. It can make a big difference in price and what you should expect in regards to rust.

Oh, thanks.... will also update my profile.

I'm in Virginia Beach, VA (23455) and am willing to drive a couple hours on a good hopeful EB, but one of the ones I looked at would have been a big frustration to have driven a long way for unless I had another body to bolt on. Thanks.

second that , they are out there but don't just jump at the first. You'll know when it's the "one".....and ask questions, nobody is better than any one else here...

Thanks. I see that a lot on here where some sites will flame you for not already knowing everything. I came to learn more and become part of this world and hopefully one day contribute to the site.

I wouldn't grab the first one I saw, but this other one looks pretty nice, especially for the local market, but I'm unsure about the I6/3spd. Otherwise I love it. I want both a full and half cab, and would rather find/buy a full cab than a half cab. I don't mind dropping the body lift one bit, and really don't hate the idea of a engine swap down the road when money allowed, but wanted to get some input as to whether the difference in engine accounted for the difference in price between a good drivetrain but shredded body or a good body but weak (yet decent shape) body? Thanks again.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/2191367758.html

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/2228853544.html

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/2230328812.html

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/2233992049.html

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/cto/2179005379.html

Thanks... most are good ideas, but just not quite right for needing something I can drive today. I may have to keep looking, keep saving, or get the I6 and upgrade later.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/2191367758.html

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little bit of rust under hood, but not bad at all, but would need doors and tires to be happy driving right away.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/2228853544.html

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Another good example of a strong engine but lots of other stuff to fix. There's a bit of body rust noticeable right away. Also, no top/doors is not a DD without going outside my budget. I'd like a tire carrier, but thats something for any time, really.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/2230328812.html

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Very nice, but unfortunately out of my present price range. I have to be under $5k and on the road.

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/2233992049.html

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I have seen this one (mentioned above) and does have a great sounding engine a the drivetrain seems to be in good order, but the body is shredded. All panels are either patched poorly or are riddled with holes... While under the tub I could see through the floor and the top in a couple places. Again, just not feasible for me. Maybe someone with a good body or maybe a fiberglass body? But not worth the $4500 to me.

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/cto/2179005379.html

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Nice potential, but barely out of my price (maybe I could negotiate) but 6 hours away for slightly out of my price and without a top is a big push.


Am I just being unreasonable? Should I jump at the option for a '71 with virtually no rust and a half top, installed lift with good 33's for $5000 even with a 170? I mean... can just swap in a early 90s 5.0 EFI/AED later down the road... right? Does it sound like a reasonable purchase? Please tell me if I'm making sense here.

Thanks again for all the responses. I do appreciate the objective perspectives.

I wouldn't let the 170 deter you if the body is virtually rust free as you describe. The half tops themselves are become harder to find these days and can easily be traded for a full top with cash coming your way in the deal should you need a full top right away.

Again, rust free is the key on these old things. Especially on the east coast. Mechanically an old Bronco is very simple to work on. Basic tools, basic knowledge and the help of this forum can get you through ~90% of the problems you may run in to.

A 302 or 5.0 swap is very common too and can always be tackled down the road. From what you are describing your needs as, the 170 can handle what you'll throw at it for now.

Post up pictures of the the '71 if you can and others will let know if it's a good deal.

I would put up the pics but the only ones are from the CL ad (no longer on CL due to seller's schedule) and are not very good resolution. Also, there's nothing to show other than it's black (originally brown) with white half top, junkyard swapped buckets, diamond armor on rockers and bed rails (I verified not hiding rust) and a 3/3 lift.... 33s on white wagons. There's no significant body filler that I can find, either. The PO to the PO (he has had it only a few months and got it this way) did a lot to get it in decent shape. There was one spot where the paint was cracking, but no rust bubbling, so maybe not a bad ride. Even the floors have a cross-hatch pattern where the original carpet pressed into the coating that was there, so likely original floor and no rust.

I just need a V8/auto in it down the road... so will do my homework soon. I think maybe 96-99 Explorer for the whole drivetrain with the MAF from a 89-93 Mustang. Maybe target that for next summer.

Thanks again for all the input. Appreciate any help and advice.