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Go Back   ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

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Old 03/07/11, 02:43 PM   #1
airbur
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What size fuel line?

I'd like to replace the OEM fuel line (main tank > aux tank > selector valve > pump) with some braided hose. What inside diameter size hose would work for this? Or in other words, which -AN size?

Stock tanks, valves, connectors etc.

Thanks.

1970 w/427W Injected Stroker
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Old 03/07/11, 02:49 PM   #2
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5/16 is enough

'69, 306 EFI'ed, ZF, DANA 44, 4 WHEEL DISC'S, ASTROBOOST, 3.5"SUSPENSION LIFT, 2"BODY LIFT, GLASS BODY, 37" ON MRW, 5.13's GRZZ/GRIZZ , MOSER, STONE CRUSHER, POWER STEERING, BAILIE BILT, DURABACK, RJM
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Old 03/07/11, 02:54 PM   #3
airbur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYLES View Post
5/16 is enough
Thanks. So I'm trying to piece together what I would need to do this. Do I need to use any of the special connectors out there for this type of hose or can I simply use it plus regular hose clamps?

1970 w/427W Injected Stroker
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Old 03/07/11, 03:04 PM   #4
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Dont waste your money on braided stainless unless you have money to burn. Yeah it looks bitchen but it rots just like any other rubber line but you cant see it through the braided stuff. Your really better off getting steel or alum hard line and putting reg fuel line short pieces on the ends with clamps. I have replaced alot of an line in my time.

To answer your question if you so chose to go that way, they make ends with clamps in them for the cheap way to put braided stainless on. check summit racing on line or any other dist you chose. -6 line is 3/8, -4 line is 1/4 and to small.

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Old 03/07/11, 03:30 PM   #5
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I am actually thinking the braided stainless may help with the vapor lock issues I've been having. The Bronco starts up fine when cold, but then really has to crank over when its warm. Completely opening the throttle at that point gets it started and that why I'm thinking it's vapor lock. The fuel line out of the main tank runs very near the exhaust pipe. Wouldn't the braided stainless help keep the heat out?

1970 w/427W Injected Stroker
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Old 03/07/11, 03:34 PM   #6
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If you have a heat issue it would be better to add a heat shield or insulation to the area effected.

Rust is just a form of weight reduction....right?
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Old 03/07/11, 03:58 PM   #7
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The fuel line out of the main tank runs very near the exhaust pipe.
Another reason not to run dual exhaust! Once the braided line is hot it will stay hot and not help your problem. Might make it worse! Im running 5/16 nylon line for less than 20 bucks! Why not just add a exhaust shield at the area where the exhaust comes near the fuel line?
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Old 03/07/11, 04:47 PM   #8
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If you have to hold the throttle open to get it to start, you may have a flooding problem.
Mine used to boil the fuel in the carb after I ran it for a while and shut it off.
Put a "heat" isolter, spacer, between the carb and intake and fixed it.
Drive it till warm, park where you can let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then pull the top off the carb and see if the bowl is full. Mine wasn't.
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Old 03/08/11, 06:13 AM   #9
airbur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bknbronco View Post
Another reason not to run dual exhaust! Once the braided line is hot it will stay hot and not help your problem. Might make it worse! Im running 5/16 nylon line for less than 20 bucks! Why not just add a exhaust shield at the area where the exhaust comes near the fuel line?
Sounds like the best way to go.

What is the point of using the 5/16 nylon line for the longer runs, and then using the regular fuel line (hose) for the connections? Why not just use that for the whole run?

1970 w/427W Injected Stroker
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Old 03/08/11, 07:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbur View Post
Sounds like the best way to go.

What is the point of using the 5/16 nylon line for the longer runs, and then using the regular fuel line (hose) for the connections? Why not just use that for the whole run?
I think because the nylon is stiffer and won't sag between hangers like rubber line will. Mine came stock with nylon from the rear tank to the switch, and steel line from the switch to the fuel pump. It doesn't sound like vapor lock in your description, like the others said.

77 Bronco without fuel doors.
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Old 03/08/11, 07:46 AM   #11
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Yea...I noticed that the nylon that's in there now is actually bent around one of the corners. That is probably restricting the flow. I think will replace with new nylon and just use a heat shield around the line near the exhaust.

Thanks!

1970 w/427W Injected Stroker
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