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Old 03/11/12, 08:04 PM   #1
NGABronco
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Solenoid??? Fixed it!!!!

I'm eat up with solenoid problems!!! 77' EB 302, 3 sp. Cranks up, drives around the block, cut it off and 2 hrs later, won't do nothing, a grunt!!!
I take the starter & battery and have them checked!! Starter's good, battery needs a charge to test (12.2 V, needs 12.5 V to test), leave it. Come back 2 hours later, battery is good!! Buy a new solenoid, put all that back on and it cranks right up!!! Drive it around the block, come home, cut it off, 10 min. later I hit the switch and the solenoid hangs up, starter spinning, I slap the solenoid and it quits???
What am I missing or doing wrong????

Last edited by NGABronco; 03/13/12 at 05:46 PM.. Reason: Battery voltage

It's only money, I hope the government sends me more tomorrow!!!
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Old 03/11/12, 09:17 PM   #2
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Ben, my last parts store solenoid did the same thing I had to go back and get a replacement they said they had a heavy duty one for a couple bucks more so I got it and all is good so far
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Old 03/11/12, 10:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGABronco View Post
I'm eat up with solenoid problems!!! 77' EB 302, 3 sp. Cranks up, drives around the block, cut it off and 2 hrs later, won't do nothing, a grunt!!!
I take the starter & battery and have them checked!! Starter's good, battery needs a charge to test (10.5 V, needs 12 V to test), leave it. Come back 2 hours later, battery is good!! Buy a new solenoid, put all that back on and it cranks right up!!! Drive it around the block, come home, cut it off, 10 min. later I hit the switch and the solenoid hangs up, starter spinning, I slap the solenoid and it quits???
What am I missing or doing wrong????
Sounds like you're having a charging system problem if your battery needs to be charged. If your alternator is working get a new battery. If your battery cables are suspect I'd recommend changing them too with quality replacements.

-Terry
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Old 03/12/12, 07:38 AM   #4
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Ben,
The solenoids are not constant duty. If they have constant power to them on the run position they will over heat and burn out. I'm wonderiing if the PO's rewire has a constant hot going to the start side of the solenoid. I can come throw more parts at it if you want.
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Old 03/12/12, 11:16 AM   #5
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Thanks Keith, I'm gonna try another, parts folks said no problem returning.

Terry, thanks, that battery has been somewhat abused, without being properly charged (long story), all the wires are new, clean & tight??? Maybe I just got a bad solenoid, hope so!!! At least all this is happening in the yard!!!


Noooooo phred!!! I don't want you to throw any new parts at it!!!!! Unless you're buying!!!LOL

It's only money, I hope the government sends me more tomorrow!!!
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Old 03/12/12, 11:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGABronco View Post
Thanks Keith, I'm gonna try another, parts folks said no problem returning.

Terry, thanks, that battery has been somewhat abused, without being properly charged (long story), all the wires are new, clean & tight??? Maybe I just got a bad solenoid, hope so!!! At least all this is happening in the yard!!!


Noooooo phred!!! I don't want you to throw any new parts at it!!!!! Unless you're buying!!!LOL
OK Ben. I've seen batteries cause weird electrical issues when they start to go bad. Over all of the years I've had a Bronco (since '85), I've only had one solenoid go bad (it was on the Bronco when I bought it). I've had good performance from the Standard Motor Products I've purchased.

Good Luck!

-Terry
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Old 03/12/12, 11:48 AM   #7
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From what I read above..I see nothing but a competely shot battery in the mix, causing most if not all of the problems observed. Maybe combined with the charging system also not up and working?

10.5 means not only is the battery dead..it usually means its 'beyond dead' with a bad cell too. 11.8-12.0 volts is 'just dead'.

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Old 03/12/12, 12:08 PM   #8
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A fully charged battery in good state should be 12.6-12.8 V, No load. (2.1V per cell)

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Old 03/12/12, 12:18 PM   #9
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With the key off I would check to see if you have power going to The small terminals on the starter solonoid. there should not be any power with the key off. Also check the large terminal going to the starter there should not be any power going there when the key is off. Check your ground at the engine block.
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Old 03/12/12, 12:58 PM   #10
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Have u load tested the battery? I have seen more than one battery in my life that will show 12 volts(no load) and drop down to 0 as soon as the starer is engaged.. In fact I just had a optima in my diesel do it last month, I was about ready to replace the starter because I thought no way the battery was bad.

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Old 03/12/12, 02:37 PM   #11
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Hey guys, I am "SORRY", I lied to ya'll about the battery!!! Didn't mean to, I just went back and looked at the before & after reports. Initially 12.2 V, needs to be above 12.5 to test, came up to 12.88 after a 30 min. charge. It's only six months old, just never used much.

The 10.5 volts was on one of the Yellow Tops in the Horse that I replaced 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for the advice & tips, I'm getting the meter and gonna go play with it some more!!
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Last edited by NGABronco; 03/12/12 at 02:38 PM.. Reason: Attachment

It's only money, I hope the government sends me more tomorrow!!!
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Old 03/13/12, 05:49 PM   #12
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I said I was gonna leave the EB's alone for a few day, but I couldn't stand it!!I took the solenoid back and got a new one, put it on and it's cranked 6-8 time no problem!!!DUH!!! Deepwoods, you win the prize!!!!

Thanks for everyone help!!

It's only money, I hope the government sends me more tomorrow!!!
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Old 04/19/12, 08:24 AM   #13
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Napa makes a hd solenoid that won't hang up, or go buy one from ford. All the aftermarket cheap crap ones will eventually hang up. I actually had one melt and catch fire on the cougar.
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