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Old 08/14/12, 01:16 AM   #1
casadejohnson
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Trac Bar Bolt/Washer WH Riser

The track bar on my 74 has always had this large washer behind the nut. Neither of my other two broncos have this washer. This weekend I installed my Wild Horses Trac bar Riser. The problem is that the Bolt on the Wild horses Riser is slightly shorter than the original Bolt so using the washer makes it hard if not impossible to drill the bolt for the cotter pin through the castle nut. The Bolt is about as tight as I can get it in this photo. Do I need the washer?
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Old 08/14/12, 01:44 AM   #2
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I'll check in the morning to see if this is normal and expected. I don't remember hearing anyone mention it before, but I don't know if that's because the bolt in your kit is a different size, or everyone else already has a thinner washer installed.

I'm pretty sure that, even with my stock setup, when I installed my first set of polyurethane bushings I had to use a thinner washer too. I've had it on there for so many years, I've forgotten the exact details, but I took off my stock fatty eons ago and still have it in a drawer or jar somewhere.
So the bottom line is, no, you don't absolutely need that washer. But I think it would be nice to mention that in the instructions if that's the case.

Along those lines, have you run poly bushings on this rig before? Maybe it's just an occasional thing, maybe it's the norm.
I do think that it would be nice to have the bolt long enough to re-use the original super-thick washer that came with most EB's. But maybe it's another case of "your results may vary" and it's hard to find a bolt that's just a 1/4" longer? Or a thinner washer puts less stress on the bolt's welds? Long shot, but hey, it might be part of the "engineering" of the setup.
Nice fall-back answers anyway! but not the bottom line yet.

What do your other Broncos have on them? Thinner washers, or no washers at all?

I'll try to get back to you as soon as I can in the AM. If you don't hear from me pretty soon though, give me a shout at 209-943-0991 and we'll go over the options.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

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Old 08/14/12, 02:20 AM   #3
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I have had Poly bushings in it for many years with no problem so I don't think thats it. My other two Broncos have No washer at all. Also, you are correct, the big washer thats on there is THICK. I was thinking about a thinner washer but didn't have one on hand to try it out. I was wondering if the big fat washer limited the flex of the bushing when it was sandwiched in there and it was eliminated for that reason but it doesn't seem like it would make that much difference. I wish I had measured the length of the original bolt before I cut it so I would have a good comparison. Let me know what you find out.

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Old 08/14/12, 10:58 AM   #4
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As I suspected, Jim hasn't heard of that happening either. Haven't asked the others yet, but will just in case.

So first off, double check the length of the bolt that we supplied in the kit. Should be 3.5". If it's not, let me know. If it is, well...
We just checked an installed one out in the back and it fits just as expected. It's got a slightly thinner than stock washer, but it's still thicker than a standard one of it's size, and there is at least 1/8" or more of bolt tip sticking out past the end of the castellated nut.
In this case then, even if there was a stock washer on there, the nut would still be below the tip of the nut.

Something I meant to ask last night, do you by any chance have a washer of any kind under the poly bushing at the main bracket? I don't see one, but I've known people to use them before, so thought I'd ask.

Anyway, check your bolt length and we can go from there.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

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Old 08/14/12, 11:09 AM   #5
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You'll need that washer in front of the bushing or else the bushing will walk its way over the nut. Then you'll be on the side of the trail fixing it.

I know the WH bracket has a .25 square washer. I welded the bolt to it and welded it to the riser bracket too. Will it be a pain in the arse to change the bolt in the future? YES! but the bushings will fail before the bolt does.

I ditched the castle nut and cotter pin for 2 nuts with a lock washer in between. Hasnt come loose since. (I forgot to drill the hole before I welded the bolt)

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Old 08/14/12, 11:12 AM   #6
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I doont see the need for them thick washers. I used just a grade 8 washer on my trac bar, and i actually just used a grade 8 nylock nut also. You do need a washer of some sort to distribute the pressure around the entire bushing or the nut may smash the bushing and cause it to wear out prematurly.

You could also check into a different castle nut. I have found that castle nut height can varry from manufacture to manufacture. maybe a slightly thinner one would allow you to still use the pin?

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Old 08/14/12, 08:02 PM   #7
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No washer behind the track bar. I'll measure the bolt when I get home in a little while and report back. Thanks for the help.

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Old 08/14/12, 09:06 PM   #8
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That washer is stock. I'm still using it with the WH riser but the bolt is almost too short for a cotter pin. Another 1/4" would be plenty. Another option is to cut or grind the nut down.

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Old 08/14/12, 10:23 PM   #9
casadejohnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viperwolf1 View Post
That washer is stock. I'm still using it with the WH riser but the bolt is almost too short for a cotter pin. Another 1/4" would be plenty. Another option is to cut or grind the nut down.
I agree, I have the 3 1/2" bolt that is supposed to be in the kit. If I had test fit it with the washer before welding I would have picked up a bolt that's a shade longer. The difference that I see is in the castle nut. The cuts in the original nut that was on it before are much deeper. My solution is just to use the factory castle nut. Here they are side by side.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345000572.906930.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345000607.060639.jpg

The original nut looks beefier to me anyway so were all good

In this photo it's only on finger tight and I have ample room for the cotter pin now. Problem solved��
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345000942.631555.jpg

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