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Old 02/19/13, 11:21 PM   #1
Chirper
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Dana 44 HP and lift question

My bronco has the dana 30 in it and I am going to put in a dana 44 hopefully by summer. I am 18 years old, and on a budget, however I don't want to be doing things over again later on. My question is since I already need to buy a new axle, should I get a high pinion 44? I don't know much about the alxes but I know they help with driveline angles when running large lifts, I only have 33s and a 3.5" lift now but will be going bigger soon (5.5"), and I wheel pretty hard. There is a guy local on craigs that will build me a narrowed dana 44 hp for $700, but I am thinking of doing it my self.

What do the High pinions come out of just f150s? what is the correct way to narrow them, and is it worth it over a regular dana 44?

BTW I have a nice mig and have been welding since I was 10, and have taken college classes so I should be able to do any welding on it.

Thanks
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Old 02/19/13, 11:29 PM   #2
burntfish
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What size tires do you want to run in the future. Do you want to keep it stock width or go full size front and rear. You can get the HP out of 78-79 broncos.
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Old 02/19/13, 11:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntfish View Post
What size tires do you want to run in the future. Do you want to keep it stock width or go full size front and rear. You can get the HP out of 78-79 broncos.
ATLEAST 35s, but I'd love to stick some 37s or 38s under it. I understand that is big for these broncos. I can't do full size axles as it is my daily driver, but I wouldn't mind being a few inches wider.

Do all of the 78-79s have the HP? and what about the drive shaft? I read the dana 30 driveline is about an inch longer, but mine has some aftermarket double cardan.
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Old 02/20/13, 08:01 AM   #4
68Olblue
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First if all you're on the right track in getting a stronger axle. I just finished my full width swap and ended up going with a 60hp in the front and a14 bolt in the rear. 37-38" are not too big for broncos but 38"s you are pushing your luck with a Dana 44 unless you go with the Cv axles, ctm joints ect and that would cost you well over $1300.
You said you wheel pretty hard and use it for a daily driver? I would opt for the 60 up front and something to match for the rear. You could pick up a 92 and up dana 60hp for around the price you'd pay for a 44. Just make sure you service those ball joints.

Just my .02. Do it right the first time, 60 all the way.
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Old 02/20/13, 09:16 AM   #5
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How hard do you wheel? If "hard" means the crushers at TSF, then I would recommend going HP D60 as well, or plan on alloy axles in your HP D44. I'm going the HP D44 route with 37's and hoping I don't regret it, but my rig sees a lot more street miles than off-road and never get's trailered (fingers crossed). My friend is swapping out his F-250 D44 now from under his '79 Bronco for a KP HP D60...he's hard on his rig.

As for years, the early 70's F150/100 applications came with HP D44's with drum brakes, heavy-wall tubes and welded wedges. The '76-'77 F150/100's came with disc brakes, otherwise the axles were the same. They went the integrally cast tubes/wedges on the '78-'79 model year for the trucks and Broncos, which are generally considered the weaker option of the two, however guys have been running them without issue and they're ridiculously easy to narrow given their construction. Factory track width on the 1/2-ton running gear is ~65" and it's about 3.5" to 4" wider for 3/4 or 1-ton running gear.

Did you know that 95% of all statistics are made up on the spot?
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Old 02/20/13, 01:02 PM   #6
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So will 37s hold up with a built 44 HP? I know that a 9 inch should be able to handle that...
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Old 02/20/13, 02:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirper View Post
So will 37s hold up with a built 44 HP? I know that a 9 inch should be able to handle that...
The general concensus back when I was researching the direction I wanted to pursue was that a HP D44, properly built, can hold up to a respectable amount of abuse with 37's with a 4000-ish pound rig and V8 power/torque. Throw in some RCV's and an OX or ARB and you should be good to go. If you fear for your ring gear, then a Jana 54 may be something worth exploring.

A 31-spline, big-bearing 9" would be the minimum I would consider with 37's that get wheeled. You can upgrade the shafts to some of the alloy options for added strength, or just go 35-spline right out of the gates for peace of mind. I'm sticking with the 31-splines until I have reason to do otherwise...which if it gets to that point, then the reality is that it's time to step up to 1-ton junk IMHO.

Tobin

Did you know that 95% of all statistics are made up on the spot?
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Old 02/20/13, 09:54 PM   #8
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All the ford 1/2 ton pickups used HPD44's 76-79 are the best choices due to the disc brakes. One general rule of thumb is when you lift the vehicle higher you should also go wider as it will help stability. For most people its easier to just go full width as the extra width helps and no need to modify the axles.
Not real sure but I believe the 76/77 axles are a little easier to narrow than the 78/79 axle. you only need to shorten the passenger side tube. I know for awhile BC broncos WAH conversion was a easy way to shorten a 78/79 axle.

73 Ranger 2 1/2 lift 302 TFS heads NP435,PS,PDB, tierod over, 33x10.50x15 BFG M/T
71 Sport 63,000 miles all orginal except for cut fenders 302 3sp 4.11's D44/BBTrac lok rear
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Old 02/20/13, 11:19 PM   #9
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If your putting a 5.5" lift and 37's you would be better off staying full width for stability.

thats what i have in mine, hp d44, and im running with a big bronco 8.8.



ive got quite a bit of the install in my build thread, it was the first big job i tackled on my bronco.

Another Beer, Another Rock!
'66, 289, 3 spd, 37's, bulletproof 5.5", deaver springs
My backyard build thread
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Old 02/27/13, 03:40 AM   #10
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I can't go full width because It is one of my daily drivers, I consider going a little wider, when shortening but then I wouldn't be able to use off the shelf axles I fear. Maybe I'll just get some offset rims and wheel spacers (everyone has an opinion on those). As for the 78-79 HP I read an article that showed cutting the tube between the wedge and center one the long side and taking 6 inches out. My only problem with this is that you then butt weld the axle tube back together. This just dosn't seem like the right way to do it to me... I may be wrong but IDK

As for the 37s, maybe I will just stick with the 3.5 susp lift for now and do a body lift. I have the D30 so I might as well build a High pinion in case I want more lift in the future right!
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Old 02/27/13, 03:57 AM   #11
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red w/silver hood. Running 37s w/D44 & 9"

3.5" SL with a 2" BL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ3-5...ature=youtu.be

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Old 02/27/13, 04:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprdv1 View Post
red w/silver hood. Running 37s w/D44 & 9"

3.5" SL with a 2" BL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ3-5...ature=youtu.be
Nice Vid man! They are all Badass!
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Old 02/27/13, 07:15 AM   #13
igottastanger
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What about headers if you shorten any of these axles can you still used full length headers? i know if you keep them full width full length headers are out the window.
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Old 02/27/13, 07:32 AM   #14
ahansen_1985
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Dana 44 HP and lift question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirper View Post
I can't go full width because It is one of my daily drivers, I consider going a little wider, when shortening but then I wouldn't be able to use off the shelf axles I fear. Maybe I'll just get some offset rims and wheel spacers (everyone has an opinion on those). As for the 78-79 HP I read an article that showed cutting the tube between the wedge and center one the long side and taking 6 inches out. My only problem with this is that you then butt weld the axle tube back together. This just dosn't seem like the right way to do it to me... I may be wrong but IDK

As for the 37s, maybe I will just stick with the 3.5 susp lift for now and do a body lift. I have the D30 so I might as well build a High pinion in case I want more lift in the future right!
Chirper full width is only 3" wider on each side, I wheel mine and daily drive it with full width, d44 and 9"
37" boggers....
I'm just down by Salem, be glad to show you a few options... Mine is all custom fabricated..,,


1966,351w,m5od,205....3.5" lift, 2" body, 37/13/15 boggers

1966,351w,m5od,205,3.50 gears,35's
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Old 02/27/13, 08:30 AM   #15
patkelley
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First, I would recommend a late model HP D44 with the cast-in wedges rather than the welded wedges if your plan is to shorten the axle. The way to shorten these is to index an alignment line then carefully cut the weld at the cast endpiece and drive the entire endpiece off of the axle tube. Then you cut the tube to the proper length, press on/re-index the endpiece, and weld it back in place.

I put the HP D44 in my '75 with an Auburn Ected Max limited slip/locker diff. The swap was pretty straightforward, but in full disclosure I did trade my stock D44 for a HP D44 that was already cut and rewelded. I did add a track bar riser and you need an adjustable track bar when going to the HP as the track bar mounting point on the axle is over 1" different that the LP unit.

The result is a huge difference in driveshaft angle (I have ~5" lift) and pretty good caster (4-5 deg.) using extended radius arms and rubber C bushings.

I added a pic of the HP housing when I was getting ready to weld the riser bracket on it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20130118_150208_910.jpg (121.9 KB, 53 views)

Last edited by patkelley; 02/27/13 at 08:38 AM.. Reason: pic added
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