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Old 08/15/13, 11:59 PM   #1
Hurseyc
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Clutch pedal removal - frustrating!!!

Is there some secret to getting the rod out that the clutch and brake pedal ride on???

I took the fresh air box out to get access to the back of the speedo and noticed the rod with the kotter key was right there so I figured I'd take the opportunity to remove the clutch pedal.

I got the kotter key out fine but the rod won't budge more than one or two millimeters.

I tried prying from the other end where the other kotter key is as well.

Is there something that holds that thing from moving?

I did notice the spacer next to the clutch spins freely. I thought maybe that was rusted.

Anyway, any tips?

Thanks!
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Old 08/16/13, 01:12 AM   #2
jckkys
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I took the box that both the clutch and brake peddles are mounted in, off the fire wall to rebuild the whole assembly. If you do that you can replace the bushings, bumpers,etc. I put the wide disc brake pedal on mine.
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Old 08/16/13, 01:16 AM   #3
Hurseyc
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That's what I was trying to avoid but it may come to that.
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Old 08/16/13, 01:20 AM   #4
jonpblewis@yaho
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Sorry, I removed mine but can't remember if it was hard or not. This is something you might consider doing along with removing the clutch. When I did mine I also moved the break over to the clutch spot along with the offset booster mounting bracket on the other side of the firewall. This spaced the break and gas pedals apart and made room for a wide break pedal. It also moved the break booster and master cylinder over the wheel well and really opened up that side of the motor that was already crowded with steering, break lines, power steering, etc. Everything looks and works well so I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

69 Dude
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Old 08/16/13, 01:41 AM   #5
broncobliss
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The rod only comes out one direction, I believe it's towards the driverside. I added a clutch pedal a while back.
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Old 08/16/13, 02:20 AM   #6
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Thanks for all the info guys. I'll see if I can pull it out in the other direction.
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Old 08/16/13, 09:28 AM   #7
AZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncobliss View Post
The rod only comes out one direction, I believe it's towards the driverside. I added a clutch pedal a while back.
The rod has cotter pins on both ends, but the rod end by the brake pedal is notched smaller so it can't come out that side. You have to take the cotter pin out on the brake pedal side and pull the rod out towards the clutch side.

Last thing: I took the whole set-up off the Bronco when I was disassembling for restoration. About a month ago I got around to disassembling the pedals to have them zinc coated, and even out of the Bronco and in the garage on a work bench, it was pretty tough. The grease on the plastic bushings had gotten VERY thick and gooey.

Last edited by AZ73; 08/16/13 at 10:11 AM..

"If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything"

Barn Find 73 going through a nut and bolt Restoration/Upgrade. Follow along at:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=217635
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Old 08/16/13, 11:14 AM   #8
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I've got a friend coming over later to help. Between the two of us we'll see if we can pull it out towards the driver's side.

Thanks again for all the info.
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Old 08/16/13, 11:15 AM   #9
01Dudley
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Hey guys before you switch to the power brake arm with the larger pad I wanted to let you know that Duff's offers a billet conversion pad that goes on the small non power brake arm, but gives it the look of the larger power brake pad. Simple bolt on.
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Old 08/16/13, 03:03 PM   #10
00gyrhed
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whoooooooooooooop!!!!

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I just cut my pedal off with a sawzall.

Got tired of looking up there through all the wire and stuff and wasnt about to pull the whole thing down.

71, 393 roller cam EFI, 700R4, D44, F9, ARB front and rear, on board air, Twin Stick, Cruise Control, P255/85/16 BFG M/T, Custom Plate Bumpers, spare tire carrier, custom floor, 2 inch susp, 2 inch body lift, Blah, Blah, Blah.
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Old 08/16/13, 03:04 PM   #11
00gyrhed
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whoooooooooooooop!!!!

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pictures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonpblewis@yaho View Post
Sorry, I removed mine but can't remember if it was hard or not. This is something you might consider doing along with removing the clutch. When I did mine I also moved the break over to the clutch spot along with the offset booster mounting bracket on the other side of the firewall. This spaced the break and gas pedals apart and made room for a wide break pedal. It also moved the break booster and master cylinder over the wheel well and really opened up that side of the motor that was already crowded with steering, break lines, power steering, etc. Everything looks and works well so I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Nice idea.

71, 393 roller cam EFI, 700R4, D44, F9, ARB front and rear, on board air, Twin Stick, Cruise Control, P255/85/16 BFG M/T, Custom Plate Bumpers, spare tire carrier, custom floor, 2 inch susp, 2 inch body lift, Blah, Blah, Blah.
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Old 08/16/13, 04:07 PM   #12
DonH
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This is gona take away some Quad rides.

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It looked like to be a big job removing the pedal from my EB. A cut off wheel shortened the pedal and the job just fine.

Bought New 1968 Bronco, 1973 Ranger 4x4, 1984 Bronco II, 1989 Bronco II, 1966/68 Bronco 289 re-born 9-13, C4, D44, 3.50s, P Brakes, Nissan P steering, 2" body lift, New wires, Auto-Meter Dash, Bumpers, patched rust, 351W in waiting.
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Old 08/16/13, 07:47 PM   #13
Desert Dweller
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I'm in the middle of moving mine over, too. (today) It was hard to get out the first time. I heartily recommend pulling the fresh air box first. (I did after I fought the shaft out.. ) It comes out to the driver's side, BTW.

'66 tub on '72 frame-351W, Tweaked C4
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Old 08/17/13, 09:42 AM   #14
djhudson05
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Chris,
If you still need help, let me know, I can see about getting up there to help out.
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Old 08/17/13, 08:43 PM   #15
TwoDalesDad
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When I dropped mine out...I had so many Fru$in bolts holding that piece to the firewall....In a rollover that one corner would not bend...thats for sure
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