Fuel lines on top of frame

AZ73 · Jan 21, 2017

I've reviewed fuel system topics and have seen fuel lines run inner side of frame, outside of frame, and on top of frame. It seems the cleanest look with the least amount of bends for my setup-up would be on top. Any downside to running NiCopp main and return lines up there?

bronconut73 · Jan 21, 2017

Top of the frame sure does protect those lines from stuff on the trail. It will also keep the lines away from the direct heat of the exhaust if your running typical dual exhaust.

nickgp · Jan 21, 2017

Not as easy to replace when needed, assuming you installed the fuel line w body off.

5001craig · Jan 21, 2017

Mine run on the top of the frame until I needed to get around the modified rear suspension. Probably will be easier to pull the body again if I need to get to them but the 2" BL will help.

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76Bronco302 · Jan 21, 2017

Mine runs on top all the way to the engine compartment. Not worried about replacement since the 1" body lift I have seems to give me plenty of room if I need to replace it ever. I used some nice dual hose clamps from here http://www.lsbilletworks.com

904Bronco · Jan 21, 2017

Remember not to place couplings or clamps and such near a body mount or other obstruction. Once the body goes back on they can be hell to get to... I just went through this with steel lines and a leaking coupling on a return line next to the body mount under the drivers floor.

Dbarnes72 · Jan 22, 2017

I ran mine on top along with the rear brake line. I'm very happy with the way it worked out. These clamps http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...nt-Clips-Stainless-Steel-Set-of-6-with-Screws worked perfect. One downside is to store more crud up there behind or between the lines. As said before, any connection locations need to be thought through for best access.

AZ73 · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks guys. On top it is and with carefully placed clamps.

englewoodcowboy · Jan 22, 2017

I've recently switched to the niccop lines with no regrets. My lines route on side and top, on side for filter placement and access then they transition to the top.

crutch · Jan 22, 2017

englewoodcowboy said:
I've recently switched to the niccop lines with no regrets. My lines route on side and top, on side for filter placement and access then they transition to the top.

I like those clamps that will also hold return line and brake line. Are those from BC broncos? With my conversion to EFI I'll need to rerun some lines and these would be slick.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AZ73 · Jan 22, 2017

As usual Cowboy, great work. BC clamps? My system is a little more complicated because I'm running dual tanks so where you have your HP pump, I have 2 filters, a pollak 6 port switch, then a LP pump to feed the HP pump. Can't run a HP pump in the aux tank and both walbro (now TI) and Bosch suggested the in-line pump isn't really a good draw pump through a switch, and the switch has a 45 lb limit so I did this set-up using a carter to draw. HP has to come after the switch since my EFI needs 60 lbs. So after the switch and the carter, the HP pump and another filter to the EFI. I looked at finding hard connectors to everything but it just became a jumble of adapters, and the pollak is plastic so there was no adapter for it. Will run Nicopp as much as I can, but use short pieces of EVAP line as connectors. Not quite as clean, but easy to maintain.

englewoodcowboy · Jan 22, 2017

crutch said:
I like those clamps that will also hold return line and brake line. Are those from BC broncos? With my conversion to EFI I'll need to rerun some lines and these would be slick.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are from BC. They do work well. I'm also working on a 77 that is retaining the factory dual tanks. It will be interesting to work out that system when I get to that point for sure.

904Bronco · Jan 22, 2017

What kind of braided fuel line/couplings are you using?

They look easier to work with than braided steel hose, maybe cheaper too?

Thx.

AZ73 · Jan 22, 2017

904Bronco said:
What kind of braided fuel line/couplings are you using?

They look easier to work with than braided steel hose, maybe cheaper too?

Thx.

Looks like he's using standard 3/8 and 5/15 adapters with an AN fitting connector for the Nicopp, followed by an AN male to AN male connector, followed by an AN to Hose connector. Similar on the Aeromotive filter which I thought was a HP fuel pump, but maybe running in-tank?

http://agscompany.com/product/steel-tube-nut-black-oxide-coated-38-58-18-inverted-10bag-nicopp/

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-AN-Male-to-AN-Male-Union-Fittings/756605/10002/-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-s...065130?hash=item1a07af17ea:g:UpEAAOSwfZhXMsRX

AZ73 · Jan 22, 2017

englewoodcowboy said:
Those are from BC. They do work well. I'm also working on a 77 that is retaining the factory dual tanks. It will be interesting to work out that system when I get to that point for sure.

It's ugly to workout. I spent days trying to figure it out. Happy to discuss what I learned and alternative options I looked at. Almost ran one of these because low pressure from tank pump activates the switch so you could run an in-tank on the main, and a small LP external from the aux, but I read it's made with rubber internals and the ethanol kills them over time. Sourced it for $60.

https://www.amazon.com/F1uz9b263b-Reservoir-Assembly-Selector-Valve/dp/B0042HFX68

904Bronco · Jan 22, 2017

AZ73 said:
Looks like he's using standard 3/8 and 5/15 adapters with an AN fitting connector for the Nicopp, followed by an AN male to AN male connector, followed by an AN to Hose connector. Similar on the Aeromotive filter which I thought was a HP fuel pump, but maybe running in-tank?

http://agscompany.com/product/steel-tube-nut-black-oxide-coated-38-58-18-inverted-10bag-nicopp/

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-AN-Male-to-AN-Male-Union-Fittings/756605/10002/-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-s...065130?hash=item1a07af17ea:g:UpEAAOSwfZhXMsRX

Thanks.

I use steel line with flex provided by Braided line. Looking for alternative to Speed-Flex PTFE Hose with Earls fittlings. (my last two builds)
A 6an 45* fitting was $38 and a straight was $16. I had left over hose from the 1st build, so it was not as painful the second time, but still...
The hose will "never" fail %) because the liner is not eaten by the todays fuel mix

AZ73 · Jan 22, 2017

904Bronco said:
Thanks.

I use steel line with flex provided by Braided line. Looking for alternative to Speed-Flex PTFE Hose with Earls fittlings. (my last two builds)
A 6an 45* fitting was $38 and a straight was $16. I had left over hose from the 1st build, so it was not as painful the second time, but still...
The hose will "never" fail %) because the liner is not eaten by the todays fuel mix

I'm running these:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/781666ERL

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/782266ERL

With this:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose/vapor_guard_hose/parts/750066ERL

But just to connect the hard line to pumps, filters, and switches. It's the only thing I could find that would connect to my switch, which is made of plastic.

They're rated to 225 psi. I'm running these clamps because of the ends listed above. Same ends on my fuel filters. Not as pretty as AN fitting, or as nice as the nylon braided rated 350-1400 lbs, but just as functional and easy to fix on the trail:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/750006ERL

You can actually get generic clamps for half this price on ebay.

If you want something that will take higher pressure but not break the bank:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose/pro_lite_350/parts/350006ERL

904Bronco · Jan 22, 2017

AZ73 said:
I'm running these:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/781666ERL

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/782266ERL

With this:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose/vapor_guard_hose/parts/750066ERL

But just to connect the hard line to pumps, filters, and switches. It's the only thing I could find that would connect to my switch, which is made of plastic.

They're rated to 225 psi. I'm running these clamps because of the ends listed above. Same ends on my fuel filters. Not as pretty as AN fitting, or as nice as the nylon braided rated 350-1400 lbs, but just as functional and easy to fix on the trail:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/750006ERL

You can actually get generic clamps for half this price on ebay.

If you want something that will take higher pressure but not break the bank:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose/pro_lite_350/parts/350006ERL

Thanks for sharing all the links...
I used this Gates product last time - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATY/27340/N0887.oap

Lots more to choose from...

toddz69 · Jan 22, 2017

I was looking at Barricade hose last year too but decided to give the Holley Vapor Guard hose a try when it was introduced. I'm going to use the Oetiker clamp option on mine and keep the EFI hose clamps in the parts bag in case I need a field fix. I've used them without issues for 20 years on my current setup.

Todd Z.

Fuel lines on top of frame

AZ73

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bronconut73

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nickgp

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5001craig

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76Bronco302

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904Bronco

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Dbarnes72

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AZ73

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englewoodcowboy

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AZ73

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